Pmaenner
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Posts posted by Pmaenner
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Ah, never noticed that gap, its pretty small. I thought colder air was better than hotter air for an engine, do the studebakers like hotter air? Right now the plugs are bright white, last time I checked they were light tan, so I think I am running lean. How long do you drive it around before checking? Thanks for the tips!
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But that was the only air intake to the engine. I have an enclosed air housing, and the the only intake was 3/4" hose from the oil pan to the air cleaner. I kept the the 3/4" air hose to the cleaner, but added a snorkel and 3" air hose to get in fresh air as well. So, in regards to the first question, what is the procedure to read plugs? I think I am running lean and want to get an accurate reading before I make any adjustments.
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Hi everyone,
Got a dumb question I need answered. I recently added in a cold air intake on my R1 avanti, before that it was breathing from the oilpan. I'm trying to re-tune the engine. I know how to make carb adjustments, but have been getting conflicting info on reading spark plugs. How long does the car need to run before reading plugs? Also, do I need a new set of plugs for every reading? I've heard people say 1/4 mile and 200 miles, and I've heard you can and cannot re-use plugs. Lastly, is there a preferred plug to read or do you have to read all of them? Thanks for the info!
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Hey everyone,
Just putting up an update here. Been a little busy, but the surging was annoying me so I dived into it a bit more. Looks like the fuel pump is degraded. I hooked up a pressure gauge, was reading 4-4.5 pounds at idle. When it warmed up, pressure reading dropped to around 3. Noticed on the hard acceleration, the pressure dropped down to 1 pound, but would recover back to 3 when the rpms came down. Did a suction pressure test and got around 4-5 inches of vacuum. Shop manual says I should be expecting 5.5-7 pounds on the fuel pressure and about 10 inches of vacuum on the suction pressure. I also went through the carb, make sure nothing was sticking with the floats and everything looked good there. So even with any inaccuracies in my gauges, I think the fuel pump is the issue. I'll be replacing that when I get a chance and see what happens. I'm thinking the fuel pump was operating right at the threshold of decent performance, hence why sometimes I got the surging and other times I didn't. I also noticed that when I plugged the vapor return line off of the filter, the engine ran better too. I haven't been getting any vapor lock, so I'm gonna replace the filter with a normal inline without a return line. Hopefully this'll fix the issue!
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Spoke with Autozone, Advanced auto parts, pep-boys, walmart, NAPA, and also directly with Cardone (spoke with customer service and also spoke with one of their engineers) , they don't offer the part nor do they offer a rebuild service for the 54-73603. Closest thing they offer is a rebuild service on the 54-73604, which would require a little modification to work. I ordered one from Dave Thibeault this morning.
I'm thinking for a winter project, I'm gonna do the turner kit and mimic the setup gunslinger did.
-Pete
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After chatting around with some manufacturers, any brake booster that would work with the avanti is now obsolete and no longer made. Some boosters do have a return and rebuild, but might as well just have the original rebuilt instead of buying something different.
I like the setup that gunslinger did, I'm just debating if I want to take the avanti off the road and completely redo all the brakes, do that turner kit which seems pretty nice. As far as rebuilds, Studebaker international seems to have the best price. I'm leaning to just getting it rebuilt and getting it back on the road as soon as possible. Save the brakes for a winter project. Shouldn't be too tough a job, just that I don't have much time right now and want to take advantage of the nice weather for road trips.
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I looked, no number anywhere, only number is on the seal which doesn't help me.
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Hey Guys,
thanks for the info, that's the webpage I saw about the NAPA part. Unfortunately, NAPA doesn't carry it anymore. I pulled the old booster, but I don't see any number on the back to cross reference anything. I'll call around a few more places, but it looks like I'll have to go with studebaker international and be patient! Dang, just as soon as the weather turns nice and I get a few days off, this happens! 😞
I like the new setup gunslinger did, that may be in store for me down the road.
-Pete
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I'll take a look, any chance you remember the part number from walmart?4
-Pete
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Hi Everyone,
I had a quick question, it looks like I need to replace my brake booster. By any chance is there an off the shelf type that would work? I thought I saw something about a certain model sold at NAPA, but couldn't remember where I read that. Studebaker international has them, just wondering if I could pick up something local to get back on the road quicker. This would be for the 1964 avanti, R1. Thanks and stay safe out there!
-Pete
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Thanks! The info helped me out a lot!
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Hi Everyone,
Been searching around and can't seem to find the info. On a stock R1, what should the primary and secondary resistance of the ignition coil be? Also, what should be the resistance of the ballast resistor when its cold? Thanks!
-Pete
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Bueno! Thanks for the tip!
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Hi everyone! Is there any sort of code or identification on the rear axle that says whether it has twin-traction or not?
My rear behaves like an open, just curious if it is supposed to be that or perhaps the clutches are burnt out.
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Checked the lines, didn't see any issue. Advance is working, looks like I got about 22 degrees mechanical advance, which jives with the shop manual.
Funny thing, test drive today and I couldn't get it to surge like it did before. On one acceleration it may have lost a little rpm around 4500, it was hard to tell. Rest of the time I didn't notice anything. I was shifting around 5k. I'll test drive it again when I get a chance, see if the problem re-emerges.
I doubt the fuel pump fixed itself. I'm thinking now, old fuel or dirt in the fuel lines. I had about 1/4 tank of old fuel when I filled up. I thought filling up with fresh would be all-right.
I'm at 4 degrees on initial timing. I plan to bump that up in 2 degree increments until I find what works best for me.
Other than that, I'll be getting the coolant surge tank kit from SI. And replacing the glass bowl filter with an inline one.
-Pete
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Good point. I checked initial timing, it's set at factory 4 degrees. I didn't check the advance, I'll take a look at that too.
-Pete
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Thanks Gary!
I put fresh gas in there, put in 93 which is the best I can do locally before in took it on my test drive.
I did search for vacuum leaks. Didn't find any. Didn't see any leaks from the fuel line, fuel hoses look to be in good shape.
I'll disconnect the lines at the tank and see what it looks like.
-Pete
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Hi everyone,
New owner of an 1964 r1 Avanti. Had a question on diagnosing an issue I discovered.
First thing I noticed was that it Had trouble going up my very steep driveway. Had to get on level ground, and gun it so that it could make it up.
I replaced the fuel and air filter. It has the old glass bowl type. I noticed it took awhile for the filter bowl to get filled with fuel. It was hard to fire up initially. but once it did, it had no problem restarting. After I replaced the filter, no problem getting up my driveway. I did notice some sediment in the bottom of the bowl. It looks clean now after replacing the filter.
Warmed the engine up and revved it in park, no problem hitting 6k. I took it for a test drive and noticed up to around 3500 rpm, I had no issues. When I tried to go faster, the rpm would flutter around. I'd hit 4500, then it would drop to 3700, back up to 4500, then drop to 3700 or so. Only time this wasn't an issue was when I was on a slight downhill and it accelerated smoothly up to 5k before I had to slow down.
I'm thinking it's the fuel pump starting to go. I know the issue could be several things, but in your experiences, where else should I be looking? Also, on a different note, what should my vacuum gauge be reading at idle for an R1? On the studebaker axles, how do I tell if it has the twin traction option? When I swapped wheels, I noticed it behaved like an open differential. Just curious if that is the way it came or the clutch packs are burnt out.
I was told the carb was rebuilt a few years ago, the transmission serviced and the engine tuned up. The engine is original and has never been rebuilt.
Only things I've done is new tires and wheels, put my vacuum advance on manifold vacuum, and been trying to fix a leak on my coolant surge tank.
I appreciate any advice or insight you guys and gals may have!
-Pete
tuning question
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted
The colortune looks pretty cool, but I don't know how you would read it when driving the car to see how wot or part throttle looks.