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Tim G

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Posts posted by Tim G

  1. On 9/7/2022 at 8:39 PM, Nelson said:

    Looks like a nice car. I think your first photo of the driver’s side should be replaced. It makes it appear that the side crease line has been repaired and spot painted. I’m pretty certain it’s just a reflection? I imagine it will sell.

    Thanks for the suggestion.  I'm not picking up the detail you're referencing but there is not a repair / spot paint on that door.

  2. 1964 Studebaker Avanti R2 Supercharged.  Automatic transmission, twin traction rear differential.  Factory option tinted windshield band and AM/FM radio.  Over the past 3 years much work has been done to make this a reliable and safe runner after being in storage for 20 plus years.  Odometer shows just under 36,000 miles, 2,500 of which have been put on in the last 2.5 years.  Studebaker factory build sheet included and engine, chassis and body numbers match (all original).  The "hog troughs" are solid and not rusty.

    -New brake pads, soft lines, master cylinder and front Bendix disc calipers

    -New power steering hoses and rebuilt pump and ram

    -New aluminum radiator with supplemental electric pusher fan (original radiator included in sale)

    -New Silvertone stainless steel exhaust system

    -New suspension bushings front and rear including anti-sway bars, new shocks

    -New interior carpet

    -New hoses and belts, plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, alternator and battery

    -Fuel tank was removed, cleaned and etched

    -Auxiliary electric inline fuel pump (made a big difference on hot starts!)

    -Rebuilt carburetor, new valve stem seals

    -Rebuilt/updated tachometer sender

    -New Halibrand style wheels and Coker/Firestone bias-look radials

    The supercharger was rebuilt prior to my ownership and seems to work great.  The original interior is very clean and the dash pad and headliner are perfect original carpet was just replaced as noted above.  As with most Avantis the dash clock does not work (but it looks good!).  There is some wear on the driver's side seatback piping and some cuts in the B pillar vinyl cover from someone entering/exiting probably with a ring on.  Yardage of matching fawn interior vinyl is included in sale.  Engine runs strong and pesky power steering leaks have been nearly eliminated with the new hoses and rebuilt parts.  Rare factory AM/FM radio works just fine.  The car was repainted in close to the original color 20-30 years ago and has some scratches ad imperfections but overall the car has a great patina and people love it whenever I take it to shows or drive it around town!

    Original radiator and many other original parts that were replaced (original Bendix calipers, etc.) are also included with the sale, including some original hubcaps (but not original steel wheels).  Start, driving and walkaround videos available as well as a whole bunch of photos.  Auction is live on Bring a Trailer!














  3. I've been thinking for a while about adding EFI to my 64 R2 and I think I've found a good system from Fitech:  The Go EFI 4 Power Adder.


    One required part of the install is a coolant temp sensor that is 3/8" NPT.  I haven't taken the bracketry for the ignition shielding off the engine to get to the coolant sender on the back of the driver's side head...Is it 3/8"?  If not, any other ideas where I could install this sensor?



  4. Hi Everybody,

    Like I assume is the case for many Avantis mine has an issue on hot days at slow speeds or when stuck in traffic.  The coolant temp will spike over 200 and come right back down once the car is moving at a reasonable speed.  I've decided to install a pusher fan on the front of the radiator to give the cooling system a little extra help.  The simple way to do this would be to just wire up a switch and control it from the cabin but I figured I'd try to use a relay and temp sensor so it runs automatically during temp spikes.

    I assume someone (likely a few) have done a similar install and I'm wondering where you installed the coolant temp sensor for the fan.  I know the stock temp sensor is in the back of the driver's side head and it looks like there is a threaded plug to match in the other head but both are very small diameter compared to the 3/8" sensor that came with my fan.  Advice on where to install the current sensor and/or suggestions of where to find a more appropriate single wire sensor are appreciated!  I'd rather not drill and tap anything new if it can be avoided.



  5. 5 minutes ago, Avanti83 said:

    I have no idea about the value but it's currently worth $250 as that's the offer. Bottom line is you can move it on or wait for a better offer which my allow you keep stumbling over it for the next 10 years or more.

    It's in storage at my dad's house so nobody is stumbling over it:)

    I was just looking for general advice on the value.  I'm not greedy, but didn't want to be taken advantage of in the absence of knowledge on the topic.  I do understand your point but there are several folks interested and I don't like saying "what'll you give me for it?".  I was thinking $300-$500 (picking numbers out of thin air) so $250 is close but wanted to double-check.

    Thanks for the help everyone!

  6. Hi Folks,

    When I found my Avanti a couple of years ago I also ended up with this block and need help identifying and valuing it.  It appears to never have been assembled and is well preserved.  The return address on the shipping label is South Bend so I assume it is NOS or remanufactured but not really sure.  I do not have a use for it and would like to find it a new home so it doesn't go do waste.  It is block and pistons only, not crank, rods, etc.  If anyone can provide information I'd really appreciate it!IMG-0146.thumb.jpg.3a46aefa89e68668a5f55cd764c043eb.jpgIMG-0404.thumb.jpg.469fe0cfe0a407bdf1e22295cafa6042.jpgIMG-0145.thumb.jpg.fbbe75b335ba61c258690ef23376946e.jpgIMG-0147.thumb.jpg.359877365a6bd495104c7161d8a35929.jpgIMG-0408.thumb.jpg.2a97b0e8549a774ea3094ebb8afd5ac3.jpgIMG-0149.thumb.jpg.892c32f4159557e9cee0af6dda3a7825.jpgIMG-0403.thumb.jpg.9680b1433c63dd1e06d9e4f5982dc05a.jpg

    IMG-0146 (1).jpg

  7. I checked the fluid in my supercharger this morning as I was doing a little Spring prep work when I noticed the supercharger could use a little fluid.  I haven't needed to add any since I bought the car a couple of years ago, so I honestly do not know what is currently in use.  The supercharger was rebuilt within the past 25 years (there were very few miles put on the car since).

    The shop manual says to use Type A ATF, which I can't seem to find locally.  What do you all use?  Is type F OK as a sub or to top off what's already in there?

    I tried a bunch of searches but came up dry.

  8. 38 minutes ago, rhusak said:


     I have a 63 R2 and have thought about this for some years.. I deal with altitude differences of 5000 feet to 9200 feet where I live in Conifer Colorado. Do you know if this unit will fit under the hood of our cars with the adapter plate etc? Will the original bonnet fit on this air horn?

     Looks neat and quite easy to do..

     Thanks in advance..

     Ron Husak

    I haven't checked the bonnet diameter or overall height yet, but I am concerned about the height including adapter.  I'm thinking the bonnet will fit since the 2300 has a 4 barrel diameter on the top.  As I investigate more I'll follow-up.


  9. Following up - I just talked with Holley and they actually recommended their Sniper EFI 2300 2 barrel with an adapter plate to mate up to the 4 barrel intake.  The rationale is that the 4 barrel 4150 would require a lot of tuning for anything under 300HP.  Has anyone else heard this recommendation?


    Billy and Ted - Thanks for the input.  I'll check out FITec and Hamilton too.

  10. Hi Folks,

    I'm new to the forum and new to avanti ownership.  I just bought a 64 R2 this summer that had been sitting for a very long time.  It's very clean with ~32K on the odometer.  It had been sitting for a very long time so of course once I got it running reasonably well it started leaking quite a bit.  I just pulled the oil pan and replaced the rear main seal...No easy feat!  It seems to be going together pretty well so far and I'm hoping that'll stop the oil leaks so I can move on to the transmission.  I already replaced all the power steering hoses and seals and cleaned/etched the gas tank as well as rebuilding the brakes.  Anything else I should look out for?  The supercharger was rebuilt around 2000 (and then sat for 19 years).



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