[Rear Axel Question]

A short update. I pulled the rear axle out. After steam cleaning years of dirty and oil off, I'm more lost now than I was when I started. The date and Bill of Material numbers don't cross over in any of the books I have or on the web. The number in the date position is 2133A3 and the number in BOM position is 2468 I 8 5X. Any ideas of where this axle came from? It does appear that the traction bar brakets have been welded on after the fact. I'm going to re-weld them as one is showing a crack. The anchor pads welded to the axle have an PN of 32457 on them. The brake backing plates have a Bendix PN of 313546-R (pax side) and 313545-L (drivers side). I couldn't cross reference these either. It is a tapered axle. Gears and bearings are in good shape, wear pattern excellent and lub clean, something on the plus side. At this point I'm considering the use of Currie replacement bake assembly, which according to them will bolt up without any issues. This resolves the issue of whose brakes/backing plate I have and gives me a modern adjustment system. Thoughts?

[Rear Axel Question]

Boogieman. Interesting enough the guy down the street is a Jeep guy, like owns 4 or 5 of various years, and said the same thing. I'm going to drop the whole axle assembly out and and go through it. This way I can pull a backing plate off and see if I can get an ID on it, along with other things. I'll post my findings for the enjoyment of all. My wife reminded me that I broke one of my own rules : Never ever buy someone else failed project. I'll sleep in the shop tonight.

[Rear Axel Question]

Thanks Gunslinger. I believe my next magic is to drop the rear end out of the car allowing me to clean the outside of the axle and repair the pinon seal. I'll check out the 71+ idea and maybe find a PN on it. The shoes that are being used are B173 style. Right now I'm really considering a disk brake conversion. In the long run I believe I would be ahead in dealing with issues I'm running into. I would consider doing a flanged axle conversion but unless I'm reading the disk brake conversion stuff wrong, all are for the tapered axle. My gut tells me I'm not dealing with a Stude factory rear end in this car.

[Rear Axel Question]

I've been at battle with the rear brake shoes and hubs for a bit. What I know is that the car was sold in 2004 with out a rear axle assembly. The car currently has a tapered axle Dana 44, 3.07 ratio, posi in it, all from the tags on the axle. I have not been able to find a manufacturing date or PN on it (normally rear side on the pax axle tube). The issue is that I'm replacing the brake shoes and hubs. The ones removed are 11" units so the ones going back on were 11" units. The issue is that the shoes don't seem to fit properly and the hubs will not slide over them. Yes I've had the shoes arched and the new hubs turned. I've tried several different shoes and two different hub sets. All do the same thing. The shoes I took off showed signed on glazing from heat which makes me think that they were the wrong size to start with. I also noted the eccentric adjustors don't seem to engage the shoe. Given all of this my question is did Stude ever do a Dana 44 on the Lark with a 10 1/2 inch brake? I've looked for a PN, hoping for a cross reference, on the backing plate but didn't find one. If the Dana 44 is from another make of make of vehicle, what would be a common swap? The axle doesn't appear to of had tabs added so I'm assuming it is a "stock" unit. Your thoughts please.

[Passenger door is stuck closed 1983 Avanti]

Bill. If you can get the door panel off you should be able to reach the locking mechanism and trip it open. Be sure the window is all the way up for easier access and to prevent breakage. If this doesn't do it and assuming the door is in the unlock mode, get a helper to hold the outside latch in the open position and using your foot, apply hard steady outward pressure from the inside. If this doesn't do it, than the pillar door pin or door lock may have gotten pushed out of alignment. In this case you may be able to loosen the door pin on the backside of the pillar. Last one to try, and really not recommended, is to cut the door pin between the door and the pillar.

[Dual Master Cylinder]

Thanks to all for your comments and ideas. The folks at Avanti Parts and Restorations help me with the "how to" in solving the piping on the dual master cylinder. I'm going to put it together without a proportioning valve for now. If I get rear lock up, I'll add it. I happen to talk with a individual working on a '64 Lark conversion (engine, trans, brakes) who offered to give a hand in exchange for some welding he needs done. Help is help.

[Dual Master Cylinder]

Gunslinger, thanks for the response. Yes it is a 1970. According to the production sheet, 17 Apr 70. I'm with you on the brakes. Fronts new pads and hoses, Rear shoes were okay but had to rebuild the wheel cyliners, replaced the drums and install new lug studs, new hoses and metal lines. I know little of the car's background other than it was for sale in 2004 as a body, frame, front suspension but no rear axle. It does have a tapered Dana 44 in it so someone matched the the factory specs. Always wanted one since high school in the early '60s. Will go nicely with others in the garage.

[Dual Master Cylinder]

I have an Avanti II, RQB1532. The guy I purchased it from started a retro on it but really didn't have a clue of what he was doing. My question is the dual master cylinder he replaced or placed on the MasterVac. The question is if it common that the rear chamber of the master cylinder is the only one used. In the past when upgrading from a single to a dual system, the rear chamber operates the front brakes with the front chamber operating the rear. If both chambers are to be used, is there a conversation kit for the plumbing or am I on my own. Thanks.