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Posts posted by CaffeineRacer

  1. I've got a CCC quadrajet. I had it rebuilt by a knowledgeable local guy last year and absolutely love it. It performs greats and I get 20 mpg. They aren't junk if you know how to massage them. In general the quadrajet is a wonderful carb that gets a bad rep because of its complexity and that you really have to know them inside out to get the best out of them.

    The 'Computer Command Control' system, with its fussy electronic Quadra-Jet carb, is bad news. Don't throw away money trying to fix a system that was unreliable when new. If you're having issues with the 'CCC', replace the carb with a pre-electronic Quadra-Jet, or an Edelbrock,..along with an earlier Chevy V8 distributor with its advance controlled by engine vacuum. You will never look back!

  2. So I hate to hijack the thread but I'm in the process of installing a 4l60e transmission (same housing, etc as the 7004r, just electronic instead of the TV cable) into another members Avanti. he bought this shift linkage kit from Dan Booth, and I'm having a bear of a time getting the linkage that goes from the transmission to the steering column to fit properly (that prevents you from being able to take the keys out while not in park). With it in there you have to really push hard on the shifter to get it to go into park. With it out and just the other linkage its fine. Does anyone have any experience with this?

    On a related note I'll let y'all know how this transmission is. It's kinda neat because since it's all electronic, we have a stand alone computer to run it and you can adjust your shift points, how firm it shifts, TCC lock up points, etc all at the touch of a button.

  3. Quick update. Radiator shop determine that it was a leak around one of the fittings for the transmission cooler lines (lower one). I was not at all surprised because I've been struggling with those cooler lines leaking and have been torquing on them quite a bit lately. He gave the radiator an overall "C" rating because of oxidation around the solders that connect the tanks to the core tubes. So my options were to repair the leak, clean it up as best it could be outside and inside and call it a day for $80 knowing that it would no longer leak and cool slightly better, but will nonetheless eventually fail but probably not for a few more years. Or get it recored for $500 and it will be good for a long time and probably cool better than ever before.

    I opted to repair the leak and clean it up. I picked it up today and I've got it install. No more leak!! They cleaned it up very nicely. Straightened some bent fins, soldered a couple of weak spots and repainted it. For $80 I think that's an absolute steal.

    I've ran the car up to temp in garage and so far so good. I'm going to let it cool down over night, recheck my hose clamps and coolant levels, then take it for a test drive.

    On a note to the original thread topic I will say that in discussing getting it recored he mentioned that the new core would cool much more efficiently and be more durable than the original. It would still be a three row core, but with much tighter packed fins and the materials they use now, while still copper/brass are much stronger. My guess would be that the $500 recore would be more efficient than the one from SI (as it is only a 2 row) and much cheaper.

  4. So I dropped the radiator off at the shop today and described where I found leaks and the guy thought that if that was all it would be less than 100 to clean up an fix. He also noted that some of the solder joints looked slightly oxidized from the outside. He did also mention that if it did end up needing to a new core it would be about 550 all in.

    I also discovered upon removing the radiator a ton of hair and crap stuck in the upper half of the unit. Not sure where it all came from, but I'm sure cleaning that off will help with cooling.

    I'll keep you updated once I hear back from the shop.

  5. The SI replacement is a staggering 650 +shipping. I'm taking it to a shop later this week to get an estimate and see if they can put in a core with slight tighter fins for increased cooling efficiency.

    It is my understanding that the fin density (up to a point that does inhibit airflow) has a greater impact on cooling than the number of rows.

  6. Just curious if anyone has any first hand experience with the replacement radiators SI sells?

    They state that these are only 2 core (as opposed to the original 3 core), but "exceed" the OEM cool efficiency. I assume they use denser fins to achieve this.

    At any rate, just want to know if anyone can attest that these units in fact do cool at least as well as the original 3 core units.

    I am also looking into getting my current one recored and reconditioned. I'm not interested in an aftermarket aluminum unit.

    Many Thanks.

  7. Just curious if you got the job done yet? Always nice to wrap these things up!

    Thanks for the reminder. I took three steps back, but have made progress forward and am almost done.

    I order a new cylinder to replace the one leaking one, with the intention of rebuilding the old one eventually and reinstalling it. Well took it out for a few short drives and all was fine until the last longer one i took. I had to step on the brakes hard and noticed the car pulled really really hard to the left (the brake piston I had replaced was on the right). I figured, crap, I must have not tightened a fitting well enough and it was leaking fluid. Anyway I get home and sure enough there was brake fluid all over the right calipers. I figured I would take care of it that night when I got home.

    When I get home and go into the garage there is a 3 foot puddle of brake fluid in front of the right tire. Super crap! Now the other caliper piston (the one on that side I hadn't replaced was leaking, a lot!!). So I just decided I was done screwing around and ordered 3 more brake pistons and all new hard lines and another set of EBC green stuff brake pads (because the other ones were ruined by all the brake fluid). Now all that is all installed and the brakes were bled, but I'm still not happy with the brakes. I went out and got a pressure bleeder now (Motive pn# 0105) and I'm just going to flush the whole system (front and back) and hopefully that will get me back to a good solid brake feeling. Moral of the story, I don' t know, but this has been one hell of an expensive brake job!.

  8. So I'm in the process of scrapping all the rust and crud off the frame and hog troughs of my 1982 Avanti so I can seal it all up with some Por15. After removing the 30+ years of grime I found some writing painted on the frame's x-member. I would love to figure out what it said originally so I can replicate it over the paint. Call me silly, but the little touches or originality are what I love about the intimacy of old cars. They remind you that an actual person spent time carefully assembling each piece of the vehicle.

    So far I think I can make out the word "BUNDLER" "BY" and the number "3".

    Anyway, here are some photos. Any on have any idea what it may have said originally? The car is RQB3526.



  9. If you want to buy a new one, here's one that's probably the same as you have now: https://www.studebakerparts.com/studebakerparts/store/s/agora.cgi?product=brk4&cart_id=4704.31055

    For another $40 you can get the stainless one here:http://xks.com/i-6916970-gr-64932067ss-wheel-cylinder-2-1-8-stainless-steel.html

    Thanks warren. I ended up ordering a new one from Myer's studebaker as well as the bolts. Jon said the ones he sell are actually new units for some Japanese car. Which is a bummer since it won't say Dunlop like the originals. I'll probably try and rebuild the one that's on there and swap it out eventually, but in the meantime this is a good solution.

    I sure am glad Bendix used dunlops brake design so we can poach off of the e-type parts out there.

  10. Agreed. I would love to own a series 1 roadster one day!

    Charlie, thanks for the tips. I've no access to a proper machine shop so I'll have to wait for another day to try out your method.

    I think I'll go ahead order a complete one. Does anyone know if the ones SI sells are NOS, rebuilt, or what? Also last question but does anyone have a parts catalogue and can tell me the pn for the bolts that hold the piston to the caliper bridge? They're a goofy 1/4-28 bolt with an undersized hex head.

    To rich for my blood, but there is also this company. They sell brand new stainless steel calipers and offer them in a 2.25 size which apparently will fit our stock setup and give a little more stopped power. http://www.hyedracyl.com/studabkr.html

  11. So it took a bit to fit them in there. EBC needs to give their QC guy a swift kick in the ass. There was quite a bit of variation in width of the backing. I had to sand down the sides of all of them and one I even had to take my dremel too.

    Anyway they're in there and now I've got new problems; a leaking piston seal. So now I've got to either rebuild or replace that one. :-(

  12. Brad and Warren, thanks for the tips. I did some checking does "DP2120" sound like the correct part number? I noticed EBC says these are made for sport compact cars wth less than 200 hp. I'm guessing that's being overly cautious. I did buy some from SI, but it's obvious that they are a very high metallic compound so I'm going to give the EBCs a go. I unfortunately have some time before this seemingly simply project will be complete because I broke one of the bolts off that holds the position to the caliper and I'm trying to figure out how to extract it with having to oversize the hole and retap. Ugh, why do little projects always turn into big one!

    Warren, what is the bridge you are referring to? Do you mean the Pad retainer?

  13. So I'm putting a set of fresh pads and rotors (turned, but still within spec) on my Avanti and I was wondering if anyone has any tips or tricks for achieving quiet braking?

    These are the things I have read about from various sources, but have never tested first hand.

    1). Chamfering the leading and trailing edges of the brake pad

    2). Applying some sort of dampening material (lube or that orange rubbery type stuff [e.g. CRC disc quiet]).

    3). Crosshatching the rotor surface to achieve better bedding of the pads and rotors

    4). ?

    Anyone ever try any of these or others?

    Also I had one hell of a time getting my pads to come out last night, they were really rusted in there (the brakes are otherwise in fantastic shape). Is this fairly common?

  14. Bill,

    Welcome and hopefully we can help you out. I'm also a member of the Avanti club DevilDog referred to. I'm not quite as close as Joe is, but can also serve as a reference if you need some advice. As mentioned before assuming things are in good order and all the needs attention is the carpeting and the door seals the price range you mentioned seemed reasonable.

    I have an 82, so very close in production. The 83 will have a 305 sbc and the computer controlled quadrajet carburetor (E4ME). These can sometimes be a pain, but I know a gentleman locally who worked wonders with mine for an extremely reasonable cost. 305s, though not powerful are a very reliable and economical power plants. It should also have a 4 speed OD transmission which makes highway cruising quite enjoyable. Make sure you test drive the car and see how it starts, runs from a cold start. I would say other things to check are leaks coming from the power steering control valve (looks like an octopus that's connected to the steering gear on the driver's side).

    PM me if you need anything. And I hope you join the community.

  15. Thanks Gunslinger for that info.

    Spoke with Dan at Nostalgic.

    The antenna switch is not available. Sold his last new one recently. He might be able to find a used one somewhere in storage.

    I will try other suppliers tomorrow.

    The cars ordered with electric trunk opening option did not get the manual release too unless the electric option was ordered after

    the car was in the process of being built, then those got both.

    I would have thought that electric option opening cars would have gotten both.

    I might look into adding an emergency release pull cable of some sort one of these days.

    The release button on my car is inside the glove box.

    The courtesy lights over the floor console work with the passenger door, not the drivers. Repaired the wiring and still no lights. New switch ordered.

    And I got the moon roof weather seal issue resolved. Basically remove the sliding panel, attach the new seal with pop-rivets and weather strip adhesive, trim to fit, reinstall the panel. The seal attaches on the sliding panel, not the body as mine was.

    An FYI tidbit: Moon roof is glass panel with inner shade, Sun roof is painted solid panel.


    The trunk release is there as it is part of the lock mechanism. You have to stick a very long screw driver through the luggage compartment trap door in the rear window shelf. It's hard to explain exactly, but there will be a little opening in the latch that you can pop the latch with the screw driver. Its sort of barbaric, but works.

    Also if you're ever down in the Houston area let me know, we've got a relatively Avanti club with about 15 or so cars. We are doing a safety and maintenance inspection workshop this weekend at one of the member's shops. You're welcome to come if you want to make the trip.

  16. I'm partial to Magnafow mufflers...not nearly as loud as the straight through mufflers but give you a nice, throaty burble at idle and open up more at speed. That's what I have on my '70 and am very happy with them.

    A little off topic, but just curious if you remember exactly which mufflers you are using (length, housing dimensions, etc)? Do they resonate a lot on the highway. I've recently replaced my system with a true dual and a crossoverpipe and it seems to resonate a lot at around 2000 rpm (highway speed) with the OEM style turbo mufflers.

  17. I used Lizard Skin spray on heat barrier, over the sound deadener. Both inside and under the floors. I then used a dynamat type of foil backed sound deadener. Then over that I installed an extremely dense closed cell foam rubber, then the carpet. Needless to say the car was like a bank vault.

    How well does that stuff hold up underneath the car (I assume that's what you meant by "under the floors")? Is it fairly durable?

  18. Awesome. Thank you. I've been trying to find if there are any other brake pads out there besides those from the usual suspects. I've been looking at portefield DD 704. They're the right width 1.88 in but 2.5 in high and 5/8 in thick.

    CaffeineRacer....'New Pad'.....1 13/16" X 2 1/16"........5/8" thick.

  19. Does anyone happen to know the dimensions of the front brake pads? Or have one they could measure for me? I read on Bob's site that they're approximately 1.875 in wide and slight taller. I'd like to confirm these dimensions and get the exact height dimension. Depth would also be appreciated.

    Many thanks.

  20. Devildog, great photo. I like how they were smart and made it so you could remove that pipe without having to cut or remove the whole downpipes. I think I'll try to rig up something like that.

    Mfg, my manual must be the first edition as there are no photos of an h-pipe. Any chance you could upload a photo from your manual?

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