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Studebaker Avanti body shell sitting on stainless steel frame


grobb284

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Here are some photos of the Studebaker Avanti body sitting on the stainless steel frame.

It is sitting on 2x4's, as the body needs to be notched for the rear 4-link pivot, as well as clearing the front a-arms.

We are thinking of using a plexiglass cover for the spare tire well opening.

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Edited by grobb284
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This really looks nice and the completed car should be great. With my modification to my 85 by installing the Corvette rear end I have been wondering how much of a modification I need to make at the rear end. Did you have to make any other cuts in the rear within the passenger area or was the only cut necessary the removal of the spare tire well removal? By removing the spare tire well does this have any effect on the overall strength or stability of the body? Any pictures of the underside of the body attachment points?

Looks great, Dave

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This really looks nice and the completed car should be great. With my modification to my 85 by installing the Corvette rear end I have been wondering how much of a modification I need to make at the rear end. Did you have to make any other cuts in the rear within the passenger area or was the only cut necessary the removal of the spare tire well removal? By removing the spare tire well does this have any effect on the overall strength or stability of the body? Any pictures of the underside of the body attachment points?

Looks great, Dave

David:

I recently spoke with another gentleman interested in electrifying his Avanti, did he contact you?

Cuts had to be made for the leading edge of the 4 links.

The spare tire well was removed only to view the rear end. With as many body mounts we have, no strength loss from its removal. The Viper rear end and its attachments clear the spare tire well. I doubt you'll find that to be the case with the Corvette, the spring perch and the tie rods in particular.

When you narrow the rear axles and tie rods, will the knuckles clear the cast rear rear cover mount? It's perhaps 8-10" wider than the Viper's. Have you established the wheel to wheel mounting width?

Let me know if I can be of assistance.

David, here is a more recent photo and a link to more.

Avanti pictures

Fb3kAUUREgMzSyQPlm1Xx0N6EmYhYEcy0280.jpg

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I was able to get in touch with Peter who is interested in building an electric Avanti. We are currently on the road and internet access is hit or miss so when we get back we will be talking. Should be interesting.

On the Corvette rear end I want to use coil overs rather than the fiber spring so I can pick the coils after I can figure the final weight of the vehicle. Since I have never done any of this before I'm sort of going by what others have talked about. The tie rods(?), I think we are talking about the same thing, can be modified so they attach from the bottom rather than over the top--again I haven't done this yet and and all my paper work is at home so I'm just trying to remember some of this.

I have been thinking of cutting out the spare tire well and making a square hole so I can install batteries which can be placed lower than the bottom of the well but no lower than say where the exhaust was to begin with. This will help balance the weight front and rear and lower the center of gravity of the car.

If I remember correctly the wheel to wheel mounting surface is about 65 or 66 inches? I have had the half shafts shortened but nothing is back together yet. I need to go back and see what we are talking about clearance of knuckles and cover mount? but I think I have looked into this and it should be okay.

You have been lots of help. I'm thinking once I get the rolling frame I will place it under the body and slowly lower it to see where I need to make the cuts. Does that sound like a plan?

Dave

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Glad you and Peter are conversing, should save duplication of effort in engineering.

On the Corvette rear end I want to use coil overs rather than the fiber spring so I can pick the coils after I can figure the final weight of the vehicle. Since I have never done any of this before I'm sort of going by what others have talked about. The tie rods(?), I think we are talking about the same thing, can be modified so they attach from the bottom rather than over the top--again I haven't done this yet and and all my paper work is at home so I'm just trying to remember some of this.

I have adapters to convert the rear tie rod mounts from taper to straight for reverse mounting of the tie rod at the knuckle. I also have mounts at the knuckle for for the coil overs that move them out for coil clearance to the half shafts.

I have been thinking of cutting out the spare tire well and making a square hole so I can install batteries which can be placed lower than the bottom of the well but no lower than say where the exhaust was to begin with. This will help balance the weight front and rear and lower the center of gravity of the car.

If I remember correctly the wheel to wheel mounting surface is about 65 or 66 inches? I have had the half shafts shortened but nothing is back together yet. I need to go back and see what we are talking about clearance of knuckles and cover mount? but I think I have looked into this and it should be okay.

Avanti 58-58 1/2, early C4 62 1/2, later C4 63 1/2 +.

You have been lots of help. I'm thinking once I get the rolling frame I will place it under the body and slowly lower it to see where I need to make the cuts. Does that sound like a plan?

Yes, it sounds good.

Dave

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  • 3 weeks later...

Gene, got back from our trip and have talked to Peter about his Avanti project. I guess his frame needs a lot of work. He was mentioning that maybe you have built aluminum frames for the Avanti? Weight is critical for my project but for right now I will be going with the original X frame until I get the car on the road. Depending on performance and of course money, I will make changes as I go.

Read your article in the Avanti magazine and it was really great. Nice to see who I have been talking to as you have been very helpful. Great description of your project with some very interesting pictures. I have been wondering about the weight of the stainless frame vs the original and I see from the article that it is about 100 pounds less but much stronger. Peter was estimating that the original frame weighs about 900 pounds. Does that sound about right?

Dave

Edited by davidjonh
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