Verifying stall on a torque converter

[scottsewall]

I purchased a Avanti torque converter from a craigslist ad, and I don't see "HR" or any other codes for identification.

I also have a different Avanti torque converter that I sent out for repair, and the one that came back has the wrong two letter code. (not "HR"). I don't like the way this one performs and suspect it has the wrong stall setting.

Is there any way to test the stall setting or is a testing service available?

-- Scott

[Avanti-Tom]

It should have the stamping code if it were a genuine Avanti converter. If the converter is in the car you would have to foot brake it hard and step into the throttle to view the the rpm where the load stall rpm falls. Most likely in the 2200 rpm range. The standard converter is tighter and want stall above 1700-1800. Don't know of a machine or service that can test a converter stall without it connected to an engine.

[dynolou2]

In the torque converter world, there are several things that determine stall speed; internal construction including fin angles on the stator, and front front and rear covers. Another thing is cam ( engine) profile,lots of lift and duration make less in the low rpm ranges. Rear gearing can also affect it as you are trying to move an almost 4000 lbs Avanti. If your old converter had internal damage either of the covers the rebuilder may have substitued what he could find or if he was lazy, didn't compare the internals there are obvious differences. Lou Cote

[Avanti-Tom]

The serial number HR stamping should be on the front facing side of the converter, the side where the flex plate connects. Also the minimum stall is 2100 rpm. That is the minimum "pass test" value. You have to hold the brakes very hard and also activate the emergency brake. Don't hold the throttle down longer than 10 seconds when stall testing the converter. In theory an R2 should stall higher than an R1 because of the blower adding torque increase to the engine.