Fitting the trunk gasket

[mtgibby]

The paint guy is getting ready to fit the gasket to the trunk lid.

Any hints on making it go smoothly? Is there a preferred adhesive?

The split (open) end faces in or out? Any ideas on how to keep the gasket in place on the corners while the adhesive sets? The tape the paint shop uses doesn't seem to be able to hold the gasket down during the dry fit test.

I don't want to drill any holes for screws!

Thanks, Mike

[JWL1940]

Recently saw a video demonstration by a Steele Rubber rep on the "My Classic Car" show. He first applied a thin line of 3M Trim Adhesive on a piece of 1"x4" steel plate about 12" long. He hen spread it with a flat stick. Did the same on the rubber seal. Then, let them sit for a few minutes until the adhesive lost its gloss. He then applied one more thin line of adhesive in the body side and stuck the rubber seal to the body. He was immediately able to lift the steel plate by grabbing the rubber seal and it stay glued to the plate. Maybe someone here has the link to that demo.

(o[]o)

[warren55]

I've seen that video and I agree that it needs to setup before you attempt to attach the gasket. It is basically thick, black contact cement. I have found that regular contact cement works just as well but not nearly as messy. You apply a good coat to both areas to be glued, let it dry for a few minutes until it's almost dry to the touch and then attach it. You only get one chance to get it right, so put it where you want it the first time. Adding a wet coat just before attachment might buy you a little wiggle room.

Some masking tape on the corners might help to keep it where you want it.

The split side goes towards the inside. Make the joint in the middle by the latch. You might have to adjust the striker up to get it closed the first time, but then slowly tighten the latch over the next few days until you need to slam the trunk firmly to get it to latch. Then open your pass through and check for light leaks with the trunk closed.