BillCA63R1
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Posts posted by BillCA63R1
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Late in the afternoon, on our way to a fund-raising event at a private residence, my wife cautioned me that all parking was being done by valet. I assured her that these drivers had seen everything and could certainly handle our Avanti. Upon arrival I handed over the keys and the valet driver confidently parked our car across the street.
When we were ready to leave, several hours later, I watched as our car began to move forward in the dark, and then stopped, displaying only the brake lights. It became apparent that the driver was struggling to find the headlight switch! By the time two other valets joined in the effort, the windshield wipers were working and the heater blower was blasting, but still no lights.
The three of them finally guided the Avanti back across the street and, with the push of the right button, my wife and I were on our way.
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"How did the mechanic check the brake booster is holding pressure? The best way is to push down on the brake pedal with the engine off. While holding the pedal down start the car. the pedal should go down further as vacuum builds up. If the pedal doesn't go down, the booster is bad"
The above test, suggested by 'Gunslinger', is an excellent technique when starting most any car, especially on the first start of the day when booster vacuum has normally bled off. Plus, it means your foot is already on the brake pedal should the transmission want to 'launch' the car!
As to my problem with the front brakes, it turns out that the caliper had reached its mechanical limit', despite the appearance of plenty of pad being left. New pads and rotors seems to have cured the problem. My thanks to 'Silverstude' for steering my mechanic to the correct diagnosis.
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Thanks for all of these responses and I will pass them on to my mechanic.
As to my underlying concern about braking, I have always understood that any braking system should have enough 'authority' to fully brake (stop) a turning wheel (at low speeds at least). Am I wrong?
Bill
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The drum brakes on my '64 R1 were all to quick to 'lock up' the rear wheels, but the disk brakes were not able to stop the front wheels from rotating, even as the car was coming to a full stop. My mechanic installed a proportioning valve to tame the rear brakes and checked that the brake booster is holding pressure, but I am still unable to apply enough brake force to cause the front tires to skid.
I feel that my overall stopping distance is greater than it should be due to this lack of 'authority' of the disk brakes in front. Is this normal?
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My R1's rear drum brakes were just rebuilt and now the rear wheels 'lock up' during heavy braking. Does the Avanti have a proportioning valve in the braking system? If not, I could use advise on fitting one. Note: This car has previously had a dual master cylinder/fluid reservoir brake system installed.
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I removed the grille from my 'Round64' to return the car's appearance to the intent of the original designers: minimal use of chrome or other ornamentation. I think it likely that the grille was added by Studebaker for marketing reasons rather than to stop any rash of road-rage-rocks.
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Regnalbob posted that the Avanti line re-started on August 5, 1963. The build sheet on my R1, R4853, shows a "Final Assembly" date of August 6, 1963. I wonder if my car is one of the first "transitional" Avantis built?
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My '64 R1 is staying home in California but I hope to fly space-available to join you at this event. Please also add me to the restaurant count if this is not too late. My plan is to stay with friends in Frederick in case you need any last minute help with logistics.
Bill Ruttan
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My Avanti was completed in August of '63, and is thus properly classified as a 1964 model, so for 2014 I say "let the 50 year Avanti celebration begin anew"!
Although the headlight openings are round, the plentiful wood grain on the dash panels screams "Tenite is the night".
Happy New Year to all Avantis and their owners,
Bill Ruttan
R-4853
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The cooling system on my R1 has had a LOT of work done on it. I now have a 195 degree thermostat and the car seems to run quite happily with the water temperature between 195-210. What I HAVE noticed is that the fluid level in the plastic overflow tank does not show any change as the engine warms up to full operating tempurature. It is as though the radiator and header tank are functioning as a strictly closed system.
I assume that one effect of having a 16 pound cap is to cause the cooling system running at a higher pressure, thus raising the boiling point (temperature) of the coolant itself. For this reason I am hesitant to lower the pressure rating of the cap.
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The aftermarket cap on my radiator 'Header' tank is stamped "16" pounds. Is this acceptable or is 14 pounds correct? Is this a critical function?
Bill
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Before I do any MORE work on engine cooling for my R1, was the original design able to properly cool the engine when air temperatures are in the 105 degree range?
At low speeds the water temperature is 225+, but no actual boil over. If the factory system never could handle Southern California desert weather , then I suppose I will need to modify the cooling with items such as electric fans, etc.
Thank you all in advance,
Bill
Palm Springs
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This car was on display in early June at the Gilmore Heritage Auto Show (Los Angeles Farmers Market). It was very clean but I recall that it could not be run (rear axle problem?) and had to be pushed or towed from its parking spot.
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Our Avanti never made it out of the automatic transmission shop in California, so my wife and I drove a different car to Colorado Springs to take attend the meeting. It was fun to be there but would have been even better in our own Avanti! Not sure if/when we will be "in range" of another AOAI meeting to drive our car to...
Bill
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I too had planned on some 'shake down' miles beforehand, but, as these things will, the project has slipped a month later than planned!
Bill
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Very shortly after a complete engine and transmission overhaul I will be driving my '63 Avanti from Southern Californai to Colorado Springs for the International Meet. Can anyone recommend a shop there with some Avanti/Studebaker experience that I could use for an oil change and "check up" prior to the drive home?
Thanks in Advance,
Bill Ruttan
Palm Springs, CA
Email: Roverbill@aol.com
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I phoned Dan and he too said that the automatic selectors never had a protective "boot", so I guess what I found on my Avanti was indeed someone's 'one off' and now it is OFF!
Thanks to you both,
Bill
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The split rubber "gaiter" that prevents debris from falling into the slot where the "PRND21" selector lever travels has fallen apart and needs to be replaced. Does anyone know a source or part number for this item (SDI could not identify)?
Bill
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A replacement seat that has a taller back (headrest) and is strong enough to incorporate its own three point seat belt would be a wonderful solution. Could Jack or anyone else email details to me?
Bill Ruttan
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I wish to install shoulder harnesses for the front seats of my '63 Avanti without drilling new holes in the "B" pillar for a three point belt system. Instead, I am looking at replacing the original lap belts with a four point restraint that attaches the shoulder straps to the existing mounting points of the rear seat lap belts. An example may be found in the link below:
Click here: SCHROTH RACING > Professional Racing Harnesses
Has anyone else rigged up a shoulder harness without having to alter the body?
I would also value having a headrest for whiplash protection. Is there an aftermarket headrest that might attach to the existing front seatbacks?
Thanks in Advance,
Bill R.
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My new six bladed radiator fan could not be used because the blade tips are hitting the inside of the plastic fan shroud. This replacement fan measures 17 inches in diameter. Is that a correct size?
Another factor could be an aftermarket viscous coupling drive shaft that is too long, thus forcing the fan forward into a narrower part of the shroud...
Has anyone else had this problem?
Thanks in advance,
Bill
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The map light under the dash operates whenever a door is open but the two rear vanity lights for the back seat only illuminate when their respective slide switches are on, whether the doors are open or closed. Are these lights also supposed to go on whenever the map light in front is triggered by a door open switch?
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Small plastic 'snap in' hole plugs (caps) are also often found in hardware stores in the section of pull out drawers containing nuts and bolts, etc.
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My R1 water temperature runs 180-205 at highway speed in the California desert (air temp 95-105) but much hotter in traffic or when idling. There is a six (6) blade radiator fan available that is said to move more air at the expense of more noise.
Has anyone tried this replacement fan? How was the cooling and sound?
Thanks in advance,
Bill
Headlights for a '63
in 1963-64 Avanti
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I wonder if there is a direct replacement LED headlight, such as the one from TruckLite, that would fit? These new units use less power and provide more light output. While the appearance is not the same as an incandescent, I think the 'far out' look would be in keeping with the Avanti's cutting edge design.