Tony S
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Posts posted by Tony S
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Could the wheels be rubbing against the inner fender or body?
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There is a place called Apple Hydroulics in Calverton N.Y. They resleve anything and have been in business for many years. They generally get about $75.00 per sleve. They are big into British cars. You can google them for their #.
I have used them many times.
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I think it might be better to let the water flow through rather than dam it up. The water will just accumulate somewhere else and cause a new problem. I would drill holes in the trough to let the water escape. Most doors and quarter panel trunk floor extensions have this from the factory. As long as the water has a means to drain it works well. They fail when leaves and debris clog the holes.
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Thanks for the insight Wayne. I understand the concept but what I am talking about seems to be "slop" between the ball and the bushing. By the diagram it would look like there is always some spring pressure against the ball. By the looks of the spring it looks like there should be some moderate resistance to the ball sliding back and forth. I can take either wheel and hlod it at 3 and 9 oclock shake the wheel from left to right easily and the only thing moving is the ball on the pitman arm in the bushing. the rest of the front end is in good condition with all new bushings. i think I may go to a ford site and snoop around since Ford has millions of similar systems on the road.
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The play in the pivot is about 1/4 inch. Looking at the parts exposed in the link it looks like the spring would have a lot of tension. If I wiggle the front wheels I can see the pivot on the pitman arm and the control valve is moving back and forth about 1/4 inch.
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I have noticed that there is some play in the ball end of my pitman arm at the power assist valve. I thought I saw the sleve that the ball sits in somewhere from one of the parts suppliers but I can't find it. The power steering works and there are no leaks so I don't want to replace it . Although the ball on the pitman arm looks like it isn't replaceable it looked like the socket end was brass or bronze. Can the repair be done with out removing the pitman arm from the box?
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The radio in the car had the power antenna trigger wire and I just by passed the switch all together. Now the antenna works with the radio switch.
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I just went through everything in the front end. All new bushings, springs Turner brake kit . The king pins and everything else are in great condition. Who ever owned it made sure the fittings were all greased. The steering just feels slow and truck like and the steering radius is lousy.
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Ok. That answers that question. I have the ability and equiptment but I am lacking in the "Do I really want to do this"? department. Since the body tubs are modified I really don't want to get that involved.I thought if it was a straight swap I could have had the chevy frame and running gear all done and just drop the body on and do the troughs at the same time. Is there an easy way to quicken up the steering. I thought I saw something about a pitman arm somewhere??
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I was wondering what needs to be done to the chevy, caprice or Monte carlo chassis to use it under my 78 Avanti ll. I am thinking of doing the car over or selling it and one of my bigest gripes is the lark front steering and the way they destroyed the engine pipe to stop it from hitting the pitman arm. The Chevy chassis appears to have a lot of advantages over the Stude?
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The original power antenna on my 76 is long gone. There was a replacement that didn't work and looked like it was wired by Rube himself. After removing all the junk and antenna I found the original power plug and there is power from the switch so I believe it will work. The problem is any new power antennas don't seem to be compatible with the original 3 wire power lead. All the replacement antennas, one of which I have all have a red ,green and black lead with a relay which I would think is a polarity switching relay. I know I can get he antenna to work with rewiring but I would like to keep the original switch and harness since they are already there. Any thoughts?
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also check the pcv valve and the brake booster check valve that is right on the booster. Thet both have a tendency to make a noise akin to a kazoo sometimes.
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The Holly carb book might be a good starting point. It is fairly inexpensive and spells out all the basics of the Holly and basic tuning. All the items you mentioned are covered in the book.
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I tried cleaning the tumblers with brake cleaner and it made no difference in the operation. The key goes in and starts to turn fine but then there is resistance, a lot I can get the p/s to work but the d/s in a no go. It feels like something is binding??
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ok. Thanks for the tips. I will concentrate on the tumblers first.
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I have a habit of hitting the switch under the dash by accident and wind up locking the doors. The problem is that the d/s tumbler is so stiff I am afraid I will break the key when I try to unlock the door. The p/s is slightly better and I can manage to unlock the door. It seems like the tumbler is not the problem but the linkage and/or the solinoid/plunger for the p/l is sticky. Before I tear into the doors is there a particulay problem ares to look at with these symptoms?
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Looking at the green and gold cars you can definately see the wheel opening in the gold car is much higher in the fender than the green car. The distance from the top of the opening to the top of the fender looks like its about 3 inches shorter on the gold car
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I just went therough my copy of "AVANTI" and can't see any difference in the front openings. There is even an overlay of the 2 bodies in the book and the only difference is the older body is lower in the front suspension but the bodys look identical there. I did notice that my II sits a lot lower in the front than the ones in the photos. I may need to get a pair of springs before I do anything.
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Anyone have a pix of the 2 body styles next to each other?
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Ever since I went to oversized tires with the mag 500 wheels I am experiencing tire rub with the wheels turned. I had taken out the spring spacer but put it back in and its still rubbing. I can see this in my future and am interested in the actual difference in the wheel openings. I have built and modified 3 glass cars in the recent past and wouldn't be shy about doing some cutting. As long as mat and resin are available you can repair any screw ups. The thing to remember is to layer the mat, no butt joints . After cutting you have to mould a lip around the opening even if it is only 1/2 inch otherwise it will be real weak . A good idea is to bend some 1/4 inch rod to fit and bond it into the lip for as long a piece as practical. This will help a lot. You can fill voids with kitty hair or tiger hair and finish with filler. A messy dirty but do able job.
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Drilling the holes and dropping the wheel just makes life easier and saves knuckle skin.
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I went on Rock auto and looked up a switch for a 1976 chevy p/u and there was several choices. There was also a small ''jumper cable'' for tilt columns that showed as part of the switch when you had a tilt wheel. This part also crossed over to the IH scout mentioned in the archives. The switch averaged about $40.00. I just hate to buy a switch to find out the plug may just be loose, but I also would hate to open up the column and find the switch is shot and than have to wait for the part. So as long as its working I'll leave it alone.
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I checked the bulb and it works on the bench . The 4 way flasher uses the same filiment so I know its good . The 4 way also uses the same wire to the bulb from the switch. So if it works in 4 way mode the bulb, ground and wire from the switch are all good. I started searching around to see what the directional switch might be from and went back in the car. I moved the tilt wheel with the directional on and the right front started blinking. If I move the wheel up and down with it on it will work intermitently . There is no particular"dead spot". So there must be a break or loose connection. When I was looking at switches, some came with a little jumper harness for tilt wheel. I am wondering if thats where the problem is. The directional is currently working.
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The topic tells it all. If I turn on the right directional the front and indicator do not light up. The right rear blinks. If I use the fourway flasher the right front along with both indicators and the rest all blink.. Since the thing in comon is the directional switch / fourway flasher switch I am thinking the directional switch section is the culprit. if it from a comon GM or Chrysler parts bin I am thinking the whole thing needs to be changed. Any thoughts? As a side note there are no other bulbs dimming or flashing out of sequence like you get with a bad ground. All the running lights also work fine under all conditions.
RQB 2897
in 1965-83 Avanti
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I'm not sure if your rear uses c clips to hold the axles in but if they do you might try opening up the diff cover and removing the clips . Then try bolting up the drums and wheels and see if it still locks up. You could also try loosening up the 4 bolts that hold the wheel bearing in the housing and see if it makes a difference.