[radiator removal]

Congrats on getting the job done and also for such reasonable costs. That doesn't seem to occur that often with an Avanti. My experiences with a '63 years ago and my '70 is that everything gets repaired OK...it just seems to take two or three attempts before it's right. Nothing seems to come easy on these cars, but that's not why we love them so much.

Hi gunslinger, was just wondering if you had any idea how to make a positive fix on the cruise control linkage between the vacum unit and the carb linkage. All i have is a ball type ( key chain) looking thing with no end on it. It's just dangling in the wind.

MT

[fix cruise control on a 78]

My car has never had the cruise control working. I found a ball type chain connected to a vacum unit. The other end is supposed to go onto a fitting on the accelerator rod/lever...I think but, there is only the ball end at the carb and no connector on the chain end.

any ideas? thanks in advance

[radiator removal]

Hi All,

Finally did the radiator repair on my 78 II. I DID NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE HOOD!

Bob, from WCD Garage in Northboro ,MA advised me that this was true but, one needed to be careful and have 2 sets of hands to lift the radiator out.

In anycase, I did it myself.

I followed the Studebaker repair manual with the exception of the hood removal. I felt it necessary to remove the 4 bolts securing the fan to the viscous hub. With that done, I simply moved the fan out of the way, removed the shroud, unbolted the 4 bolts holding the radiator and removed the large bolt in the bracket above the radiator assembly which appears to have no function. This bolt will not let the radiator swing backwards toward the engine. The middle bolt at the radiator is not necessary to remove as it only secures the air conditioner exchanger and is better left in place to keep the exchanger from shifting around.

Then, Carefully removed the trans oil lines, the bottom return 90 degree fitting is not necessary and awkward for reinstallation, so I removed that from the radiator and simply installed a new fitting with barb and clamp on the trans oil hose to go directly into the radiator instead!

I used a floor jack to support the radiator from underneath. The radiator tilted back, lifting it was a bit like lifting weights but it cleared without any damage to the fins.

I brought the thing to Rodgers Radiator repair in Medford,MA where they tested it, acid bathed it, and soldered the holes, and painted it........the cost $104.

The reinstall was the same....balanced the thing on the floor jack and carefully lined it up to the bolt holes and exchanger brackets by raising or lowering the jack, the bolts went in very easily! Hooked it all up, filled the system with new 50/50. ran the car to test for leaks, tightened the hose clamps with a rachet.

It works real good. Again, I did not have to remove the hood and I did it alone! I am not an auto mechanic!

One may experience problems with the trans oil lines being old and frozen..........just cut the lines and remove the old fittings, then install barbed fittings with clamps to the cut hose end or have new lines made. You can have new trans oil cooling lines made on the spot at Lubrication Equipment & Accessories, Main st, Medford, MA....they can do anything!

Thank you all for your advice, input and enthusiasm for keeping these cars running and nice!

And now on to the bum A/C compressor, faulty fuel guage and finally the cruise control connection to the carb unit.

Yours truly

Mike Turk

[radiator removal]

Hello friends,

My 78 is now leaking coolant at the lower driver's side corner of the radiator. The hoses and connections are good. It seems to be comming from the bottom of the unit and spilling over the Saturn airdam installed under the radiator support.

The Stud factory manual prescribes removal of the hood, is this necessary? Is removal of the radiator in a 78' II the same as the original Stud 63-64 cars? Any advice and hand holding for this would be very appreciated. Here in the Boston area it's tough to find mechanics willing to do this work and when you find them the per hour labor cost can be around $95/hour. A simple radiator repair looks to be around $5-600 ...ouch!

Thanks for your advice!

[Instrument lights resistor]

That's agood question. How inportant is that resistor, is it easy to locate and does it need anykind of servicing. My dash lights have always been very dim except for the replacement tachometer light which illuminates normally. I've replaced old bulbs but, they illuminate the same as the originals.....!#@$?

[Faulty Fuel Guage]

Thank you...you d' man! it seems most likely the sender because the guage jumps all over the place. I have the shop manual for thr 63 R and will look at the diagnostics for the guage anyway. thanks for your help. I will surely be back with more questions. Mike

[Faulty Fuel Guage]

My fuel guage got me in trouble last year. It's an original SW from '78. It always behaved in a jerky fashion. Now it's not reporting the correct level and indicates 1/4 tank when empty....that was 2 gallons for $62.00 from the local rescue squad.

At this point, I simply calculate 15 mpg when refueling and count the odometer miles. Not a bad practice but, it would be nice to know the correct level by viewing the guage.

Will I have to go through all that magilla about the fuel tank access?