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28meter

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Posts posted by 28meter

  1. Does anyone know if I can remove the engine and transmission as one unit. I have a '63 r2 with automatic. The repair manual doesn't mention whether this is posible or not. It looks like a piece of cake especially with the intake, heads, ignition sytem, radiator and all belt driven items removed. I am doing an engine bay detail job and have decided that I won't get it just right with the engine in the way.

    Thanks from Jim

  2. I am in the process of renewing the appearance of the engine bay on my '63 R2 and have a few questions.

    1. What is the correct engine color?

    2. Was the original body paint lacquer or enamel? If it was lacquer, I will have to take extra precautions to keep the modern paint from bubbling the old.

    3. Is the original power steering pump top bare metal or painted black? Mine is bare.

    4. Where is a good hiding place for the chrysler ignition module? Any reason not to put it in the area where the A/C blower would be on a R1?

    5. I would like a recommendation on how to best freshen up the finish on the non-painted items like the harness clips, plug wire track framework and hood latches?

    6. Did the original exhaust system have a midship cross-over pipe under the transmission tail housing? Mine does...and it makes the exhaust pipes very dificult to lower for gasket replacement?

    7. What is the original pos. and neg. battery cable colors?

    8. Can I get the oil pan off with the engine in the car? It has a slight wet spot, a small dent and would be easier to paint when removed.

    So far I have removed the radiator, coolant tank, cylinder heads, freeze plugs and everything off of the front of the engine in order to de-crud the cooling system. I am very glad that I did.....there was sediment 3/4" deep in the low circulation areas. Anyway at this stage it is obviously "prime time" to make her look showroom under the hood!

    Any answers. tips or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks from Jim

  3. I am in the process of renewing the appearance of the engine bay on my '63 R2 and have a few questions.

    1. What is the correct engine color?

    2. Was the original body paint lacquer or enamel? If it was lacquer, I will have to take extra precautions to keep the modern paint from bubbling the old.

    3. Is the original power steering pump top bare metal or painted black? Mine is bare.

    4. Where is a good hiding place for the chrysler ignition module? Any reason not to put it in the area where the A/C blower would be on a R1?

    5. I would like a recommendation on how to best freshen up the finish on the non-painted items like the harness clips, plug wire track framework and hood latches?

    6. Did the original exhaust system have a midship cross-over pipe under the transmission tail housing? Mine does...and it makes the exhaust pipes very dificult to lower for gasket replacement?

    7. What is the original pos. and neg. battery cable colors?

    8. Can I get the oil pan off with the engine in the car? It has a slight wet spot, a small dent and would be easier to paint when removed.

    So far I have removed the radiator, coolant tank, cylinder heads, freeze plugs and everything off of the front of the engine in order to de-crud the cooling system. I am very glad that I did.....there was sediment 3/4" deep in the low circulation areas. Anyway at this stage it is obviously "prime time" to make her look showroom under the hood!

    Any answers. tips or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks from Jim

  4. If you're an AOAI member, get a hold of the newest roster or Avanti magazine (or even the chapter listing on the website if you're not a member :) ) and look up the chapter president for Arizona and ask him for a suggestion.

    That's what I did and AOAI national President Mike Baker did the pre-purchase inspection of my car in Indiana.

  5. In March of 1963 Studebaker dropped the year designator from VIN's. As far as the "S" in the VIN, I've read that was supposed to be the way the VIN's were done, but few seem to have followed that. Most, if not all R2 cars I've seen simply have R-XXXX in the VIN.

    To find out exactly how the car you're considering was spec'd out for assembly at the factory, you can get a copy of the car's build sheet from either the Studebaker National Museum or Nostalgic Motors. There's something like a $20 fee for the service and it serves to prove or disprove the car's originality.

    Thanks for you expertise Gunslinger! Hopefully this car will meet my expectations....I am flying to LA tomorrow to do an inspection.

  6. I want to make sure that I know how to decipher Avanti VIN #s How does the VIN show the difference between R-1 and R-2 models? My understanding is that the R-2 have the year then rs then 4 digits? Is there a way to know what the original exterior and interior colors were like looking up studebaker records or some thing? I am considering the purchase of a 63 r-2 VIN 63R1727....does that make sense?

    Any words of wisdom will be grewatly appreciated.

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