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Bob Fouts

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Posts posted by Bob Fouts

  1. Thanks Bob,

    I'd appreciate that contact information for the outside mirrors.

    (for inside, I bought a reproduction intended for an 80's Monte Carlo. Not exact, but close enough for now. I suppose nobody but me will know the difference, and I'm not even sure that the broken one is the original one anyway)

    Paul

    OK Here is the deal on the outside electrically operated rear view mirrors on my 85. They are made by Torino Industries whose US operations are in Chicago, 4999west 65th st in Bedford Park IL 660638. When I talked to them in 92 they would sell directly to me either the whole unit or any required parts. You might mention AOAI. My sheet metal cover rusted off and disappeared, a new cover cost $4.00 Their # is 708 4960805. Regards Bob Fouts

  2. My 85 has a inside rear view mirror exactly the same as a chrysler of similar vintage. The outside electrically actuated rear view mirrors are from Italy but the US distributor is in Chicago. If you are interested I'll get their name when I get back home in two days. Bob Fouts

  3. Hi Wayne: I've looked at the whole think as close as I can. Removed the jam nut and locking washer. Near as I can tell, the adjusting screw which is slotted, screws directly into the vent frame. There isn't a washer on the other side and it doesn't look like a nut. Because of the vey liminted space, it's impossible to figure out just how to adjust. I'm afraid a picture would leave you as confused as I am. Tomorrow I am going to put the hinges back where they were, which only bothered me. Perhaps someday, someone will be able to explain this adjustment?

    Thanks Bob

  4. Thanks for the response Wayne. I have tried penetrating oil to no avail. Looking at it closely, the adjusting screw appears to be screwed directly into the vent frame, which makes it dfficult to understand howthere couldbe a adjustment. This really has me stumped. There is no way I can get my hand in that area to try to feel what is there. I'm wondering if Studebaker or Avanti made a running change in the design which eliminated the adjustment? I sure like to hear from someone who can explait just how this adj. works. Bob

  5. Recently I adjusted the upper door hinge in about 3/16" so the door panel would line up with the edge of front fender. In doing that,of course, the top of the vent window is further in, about 5/16", than it was before. That makes it almost impossible to close the door, not a good thing. I have religiously followed the service manual without success. It is impossible to turn the adjustment screw (2) either in or out which I suspect is the crux of my problem. Anybody have some advice other than to move the door out 3/16 ? Thanks Bob

    PS this is on my 85

  6. On my 85, I found that even after the small screws on the side were removed it was extremely difficult to remove the stainless steel trim. Did a lot of delicate prying with scrapers, small wide pry bars, and anything else I could find. Finally got them off with almost no damage: Good Luck! Bob

  7. I had the same weeping problem on my 85 (why am I not suprised). I sent it to Precision Products in San Antonio TX. They rebuild early Mustang parts. It dosen't leak at all now and the charge including shipping was $106.34. There was a problem, apparently the mustang control valves are assembled with the two castings rotated 180 degrees different that the avanti. Once I figured that out, which took a long time, I removed the two bolts and rotated it 180. Works perfect and no leaks!

  8. Looking at it a little more, it would seem that the brake lights are designed to only operate on the taillights in the rear fender and the turn signals are designed to only operate in the trunk lights. Is this the way all avanties of this vintage work or do I have something unique?

  9. OK this is the 85 with another question: The tail lights and brake lights in the rear fender work just fine. The tail lights in the trunk lid work but the brake lights don't. Th wiring harness for the trunk lid comes out of the left rear inner fender and doesn't seem to be directly connected to the harness for the fender lights. The wiring harness to the trunk lights consists of a white ground wire to each bulb, a black w green stripe (tail light) wire to each bulb, and a grey wire to the left bulb and a green wire to the right bulb. The grey and green wires which I assume are for the brakes don't have power when Judy hits the brakes. I suppose the quick and dirty solution is to run wire from the grey and green to one of the fender brake wires. Is there a better way or am I missing something? Appreciate any suggestions

    Thanks Bob

  10. I'MMM BACK: My 85 with the Studebaker frame has a very annoying squeek caused by the RF coil spring just touching the outer edge of the coilspring housing in the frame. It happened after I dropped the RF control arm recently. Anybody have a thought on this?

    Thanks Bob Fouts

  11. Should have got back sooner. No, it doesn't have the origional type. It's probably something out of a mid 80's GM I suppose. Just a shaft going into the visor. I'm going to screw up my courage and try to pull the shaft out and see what gives. Maybe a little duct tape would be the answer?

    Bob Fouts

  12. Appreciate all the suggestions: What I initioally did was disconect the air pump,plug up all the air tubes, remove the several small diameter hoses, and then took it on a 100 mile test ride. everything was fine for the first 75 miles then the engine would not slow down from 2500 rpm. That was exciting and probably hard on the brakes! Removing the throttle linkage had no effect. So I reconected everything, bought a new air induction tube Car Quest # ECC 73-1830, put it all together and drove 299 miles with no problem. End of story Bob Fouts

  13. This is the same 85 with the air tube problem. You can sit in the driveway,hit the turn signal, turn the wheel 1/4 turn and the signal cancels every time. Go out on the road and usually it will not cancel. My guy has opened up the column and tried to correct it but he can't get it tight enough, thinks I need a new or good salvage column which brings up the question: what year(s) and make of GM column is this? Any ideas on that?

    Thanks Bob

    Please consider this subject closed. I found out that my steering wheel was 180degrees out of sinc with the turn signal. everything is fine now!

  14. This is the same 85 with the air tube problem. You can sit in the driveway,hit the turn signal, turn the wheel 1/4 turn and the signal cancels every time. Go out on the road and usually it will not cancel. My guy has opened up the column and tried to correct it but he can't get it tight enough, thinks I need a new or good salvage column which brings up the question: what year(s) and make of GM column is this? Any ideas on that?

    Thanks Bob

  15. I've got a 85 Avanti with the 305 engine. The catalitic converter is gone replaced with dual exhausts. Now the air tubes that screw into the exhaust manifolds are leaking badly. I'd like to get rid of them but the mechanic says that will cause the check engine light to come on. Anybody have thoughts in this subject? Bob Fouts

  16. Help! It's been a few years since I have had the origional PS control valve in my 85 and for the life if me I can't figure out how the 4 hoses shoukl be plumbed into the control valve. Anybody have a few digital pictures of this area? The 85 is the last year of the origional Studebaker frame.

  17. I have a very simular problem : see "quick steering arms " below. My 85 is the last year using the Lark frame. I'm in the process of rebuilding the various steering components due to really sloppy steering. The steering box is marked "L T V" which is I think same as Ross. The box in my car doesn't look at all like the one in the service manual and has what looks like a adapter bracket which attaches it to the frame. I'm thinking that possibly I would be better off with a Saginaw box as used on late model Larks. however they don't have a rag joint like the Avanti. I'm thinking it might be possible to have a Saginaw box rebuilt with a stub shaft like the Avanti? Also looking for a source for the complete rag joint for the Avanti. Anybody have thoughts of my various comments? Thanks Bob

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