Jump to content

Auggie

AOAI Forum Members
  • Posts

    5
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Auggie

  1. And the original factory four speed was a wide ratio unit with a rather odd spread in ratios between 3rd and 4th gear which made 3rd rather a "short" ride and a little useless. But then other wide ratio fours I ve seen had the bad spread between 2nd and 3rd. Of the two the Stude is preferrable, in my estimation. I've always preferred a close ratio, but only if the back gears are 3.73 or "bigger". Overall the Stude ratio with 3.31 back gears is probably best, IMHO.

    auggie

  2. just wondering because my dad bought it in 62 and ive heard other people talk or ask ? about where mine stood .i suppose it is irrelavent thanks for your input.ps what musium.

    Chip: The Studebaker National Museum in South Bend. Phone no. 574-235-9714. Web site www.studebakermuseum.org. What do you mean by "about where mine stood". If you are looking at where your father's car stood in production order or sequence the production line number is not going to tell you anything as it was just an in-house code number used during assembly. The vin no. or serial number is what tells you when during the run of some 4600 Studebaker Avantis that your father's car was built. Serial numbers began with 63R1001 and yours, if bought in '62, would be an early car with a serial no. under about 63R2500 or so. The production order will tell you the date of final assembly and all the options on the car as built, etc. It will include the production line number, but that appears, at this time in history, to be a rather irrevalent bit of data. It seems as though comewhere in the maze of info on Studebakers in the SDC sites on the internet is a chart showing month ending serial numbers or something similar, but I can't recall how to get there. Hope this helps. Any further questions just holler. Oh, by your serial no. yours is the 12th car built and in the same family since new--very "neat" and likely the earliest car built to still be with the original owners.

    auggie

  3. Ive been trying to tell  from my vin # which is 63R-01012.can any body help

    Chip: I'm not sure if I understand your question correctly. Are you saying that you want to learn what your production line number is? The only way I would know is to purchase a copy of your production order--from the museum and I believe one other source, but I'm not positive what the other source is. Cost is $25. from the museum, if I remember correctly. The production line number seems to be a pretty inane piece of information--why do you desire it?

    Auggie

  4. Wow .. if you know how to get hold of Stone by the web, please let me know! I

    have been trying to call the guy for a while and its always a machine.  I want to

    see if he will trade a good Hawk fender for a set of those headers he sells.

    I agree that different vendors are good for different things, thats also true for the

    local parts stores.  It all depends.

    Tom

    Chip: My experience has been that you have to be real careful with ANY of the vendors. In my humble opinion none of them view the cars as we do as a "hobby"--they are all in it to "make a buck". I've had shoddy work done, inconsiderate responses to the concerns I've voiced, poor applicability of the cross-over (from other marques) parts used, and in general an attitude of "its an orphaned make--so what can you expect". My experience with Lionel Stone is that he immediately took back a part I wasn't happy with and for this I commend him. Not all, however, fit the above view that they are "all in it to make a buck"--that is too harsh a view. Ted Harbit (for one) is a true hobbyist and rates top marks in my book. And I certainly haven't had experience with them all. But there are some I would not do business with and feel as though it would be nice to be able to list them. So I would use Lionel before some others I could name.

    "Auggie"

  5. Ineed to know the cfm and aftermarket options for R2 carb. thanks

    Chip: Interested in the size of the R2 carb myself. The Avanti Shop Manual lists the size of the R1 AFB as 1 7/16 and the R2 AFB as 1 11/16. This would APPEAR to reflect the diameter of the throttle bores on the primary side. I have an old article from a Hot Rod magazine which lists AFBs with 1 7/16 primaries and 1 11/16 secondaries as 625 cfm and 1 11/16 primaries and 1 11/16 secondaries as 750 cfm. This would seem to be a lot of carb for 289 ci, but that is what the chart says; for what it is worth. Hope this helps. :) I haven't measured my 3507S AFB to see what the bores measure so I am not able to confirm the primary size.

    "Auggie"

×
×
  • Create New...