Adam DeRosa

We'll nee some more information before offering suggestions. 1. What's the current condition of the AC system? Are the compressor, condenser, hoses, evaporator, etc in good shape? Is the system charged properly? 2. Have you taken steps to minimize outside heat from entering the cabin? Are all engine compartment grommets and seals in place? Are the footwell fresh air and heater doors closing properly? Is the heater control water valve closing properly?

@SCPO-PD You're welcome; glad I could help! Sorry the parts in the pictures are kind of grimy - I did this installation 20 yrs and many miles ago. @Bobcat I hope your mechanic can get this puzzle solved for you. You will really like this once it's done. It really transforms the car at highway speeds and is the single greatest improvement I've done over the years. To get the full benefit of this conversion, make sure you have a method of engaging the torque converter lock-up clutch. There are a few different ways to achieve this and there are aftermarket devices available to perform this function.

@Bobcat - here's some pics of the linkage connection at the transmission. The larger rod angles up from the transmission to the steering column to lock the transmission in Park with the key removed. The smaller rod goes back to the shifter. I hope this helps. If you need something specific let me know and I'll try grab some more pics. Good luck!

@Bobcat - were you able to solve this? If not I can probably get my car jacked up and grab some pics on Friday.

I also did a 200-4R conversion on my Avanti (RQB-1831). I did not purchase the kit Nostalgic sells, instead I was able to re-use and adjust my existing linkage. I can pull the shifter into second but not first as the linkage runs out of travel. But, in the 20 years since I've done the conversion this has not been an issue. I do think I may have had to swap the linkage arm that's mounted right on the transmission from the old TH400 onto the 200-4R. Your mechanic should be able to look at things and figure out what's wrong, otherwise have him give Dan a call as others have suggested, Sorry my car is not on a lift right now so I can't get you pics.

Lots of options at the various Hot Rod supply shops; here's one that may work for you: https://vintagepartsofarizona.com/seatbelt-solutions-3-point-retractable-lap-shoulder-belt-w-starburst-push-button-sleeve/

So, you're measuring 9V at this wire while the engine is cranking, correct? If so, that may be OK. Verify by checking the Voltage at the battery while the engine is cranking. You'll probably see a similar drop.

Jim - glad you got the problem with your brakes solved. In 1972 your car originally came with breaker points distributor, with power to the coil supplied by the Pink (with black stripe) resistance wire once running. During Start, full voltage was supplied to the coil by a Yellow by-pass wire that ran from the starter solenoid to the coil. With HEI ignition, you need full voltage to the coil all the time. You'll need to replace the Pink resistance wire. It should run to a connector on the steering column which you can get to if you crawl under the dashboard. You can then remove the resistance wire at the connector and run a new wire to the HEI system.

@Zedman, that's a great video - thanks for sharing! Many years ago I had a terrible problem with the rear brakes locking up on my '72 Avanti during hard braking. I tried everything to solve it. I suspected the combination valve might be at fault but could not find a replacement at the time. I removed it and replaced it with an adjustable proportioning valve which solved my problem.

Wow that looks really good!

Check the cigar lighter and make sure the wires are tight on the terminals and not loose and touching each other. I once had a similar problem and discovered it was caused by someone dropping a penny into the cigar lighter receptacle, causing an intermittent short circuit.

Glad you got your overheating problem solved! Yes the transmission can be removed without removing the engine. This would also be a good time to examine the transmission mount and the driveshaft U-joints.

Check this out, from Bob Johnstone's Avanti site: https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Parts/2013/timkin50151s.html

Yes, there is a filter inside the Q-Jet carb. There was also originally an external fuel filter with a return line to the tank. (by the way this return line to the tank is essential for preventing vapor lock when it's hot). Your '72 Avanti II was also originally equipped with with a charcoal vapor recovery canister as part of it's EPA emissions equipment. This would've been mounted on the right side of the engine along the inner fender. These also had fuel lines and hoses between the canister and the carb, and the canister and the tank. Someone on the past 53 years may have removed it, and one of these line could be the source of your leak.

The T-fitting on the frame should have a pipe plug in the bottom of it, which can be removed for draining the tank. On the passenger side of the engine, there should be three lines at the fuel filter: - one line going into the filter -one going from the filter to the carb -one smaller line going from the filter back to the tank. Is it perhaps this smaller return line you're looking at? Sometime in the past someone may have made a "modification" that you may need to undo.