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avantinet

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Posts posted by avantinet

  1. I have a question on timing. Does anyone have an idea as to why the timing settings on the engine would change as much as 4 or 5 degrees on it's own? It seems to take about 300 to 400 miles after the timings been set.

  2. I have an R 1 with the automatic transmission. I have a leaking shaft seal in the side of the transmission. I bought the seal and then realized the problem. There is no clearance to replace the seal because of the transmission hump. Does this require the removal of the transmission or is there an easier fix? Any help on this one is greatly appreciated.

    Thanks

    Chuck

  3. There's a number of good electric fuel pumps on the market...check Summit Racing or Jegs. They pretty much sell the same brands so it's based on who has the best price after you decide which to go with. One big advantage to an electric pump is there's no diaphragm to tear or break and dump gasoline right into the crankcase (been there done that with the '63 I used to own).

    A couple of recommendations...an electric pump is meant to go back by the tank rather than under the hood. Electric pumps are more efficient at pushing fuel rather than pulling it like a mechanical pump does. You may need an adjustable regulator so you don't flood the carburetor. Also make sure you get pressurized fuel hose as regular gas line hose can burst under pressure. If you have the stock AM radio, you may need to add some shielding around an electric pump or you may get interference in the audio...back by the fuel tank mounted within some frame rails it may be sufficiently shielded. Also...electric pumps tend to be a bit noisy in their own right...some maybe better or worse than others, but you get used to the whine.

    You can also mount a fuel filter close to the pump and that can clean up the appearance under the hood a bit. I would not use a plastic or glass fuel filter since they're under pressure. Get a metal fuel filter that has threaded connections since clamp-on types also aren't good for pressurized systems.

    While you're back under the rear of the car putting the system together, you may want to consider installing a shut-off valve...not necessary but does make it easier when servicing the system later for any reasons.

    When wiring the pump, connect it to the "run" side of the ignition...not the "accessory" side. The instructions that come with it should say that.

    I'm not saying all this is difficult or not desirable, just trying to let you know some of the things you have to be prepared for. An electric fuel pump is a different animal from a conventional mechanical one. Here's a pic of the installation in my '70. It's not that great a view but you should be able to get an idea...

  4. Would anyone know if a standard Studebaker V8 oil pump is usable as a replacement for an R 1 ? They look the same. Mine has a cracked housing and I can't use a rebuild kit.

    Thanks for any info.

    Chuck

  5. After replacing most of the steel brake lines I noticed it would be a good idea to replace the front brake hoses also. I noticed the Studebaker vendors sell these for about 30 dollars a piece. If you go to NAPA and order part # 36932 you will receive a brake hose that is about one inch longer. The hose connectors have a nut connector on each end. If you grind off the high spots of the nut and round them off they fit perfect and the price is $11.88 apiece.

    Chuck

  6. I just replaced the vacuum booster and master cylinder on my 63. It looks like the brake lines that run from the frame to the caliper in the front need replacement. Is there a replacement for the Wagner line that I can get from NAPA or one of the other parts stores?

    Chuck

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