Galvagni
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Posts posted by Galvagni
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4 hours ago, 64studeavanti said:
I have Dana 44 from a 63 I am parting out that you can have if you are willing to remove. I believe it is 3.31 ratio. I live just south of Tampa.
I'd be interested in that. How best to get in touch with you?
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A Dana 44 out of Studebaker!
I assumed that that would be an impossible task. Hopefully I'm wrong. I'll give it a look. Thanks
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The web site: www.therangerstation.com has the following information on the Ford 8.8.
The one potential difference between the D27 and the 8.8 is the "Pinion Offset Right of Center" . There's is 2" where I measure 5/8" on the D27.
I'll try to hunt one down at the scrapeyard.
Ford Ranger & Explorer 8.8-Inch Axle Dimensions 1983-1992 Ford Ranger 1993-2009 Ford Ranger 2010-2011 Ford Ranger W/Discs Ford Explorer Width WMS-WMS 56.50 inches 58.50 inches 57.50 inches 59.625 inches Axle Tube Diameter 2.80-inches 2.80-inches (28-spline)
3.25-inches (31-spline)3.25-inches 3.25-inches Pinion Offset Right Of Center 2-inches 2-inches 2-inches 2-inches Pinion Offset Below Centerline 1.50-inches 1.50-inches 1.50-inches 1.50-inches Pinion Length (axle centerline to u-joint centerline): 11-5/8 inches 11-5/8 inches 11-5/8 inches 11-5/8 inches Bottom Of Housing From Centerline 5-3/4 inches 5-3/4 inches 5-3/4 inches 5-3/4 inches Stock Spring Perch Width 38-1/2 inches 38-1/2 inches 38-1/2 inches 38-1/2 inches Axle Spline / Diameter 28 / 1.21 inches 28 / 1.21 inches 28 / 1.21 inches 31 / 1.32 inches Pinion Stem Diameter 1.626 inches 1.626 inches 1.626 inches 1.626 inches Ring Gear Diameter 8.80 inches 8.80 inches 8.80 inches 8.80 inches Ford Ranger FX4 with a 31-spline 8.8-Inch axle should have a 1.32-inch diameter axle shaft. -
It's definitely a Dana 27. This axle must have been installed after the original Dana 44 was ruined. I would like to replace this so I'm looking for ideas of what would be a logical replacement. I mentioned a Ford Ranger (1993 to 2009) 8.8" as a possible replacement because the overall length is the same and the bolt pattern is the same.
Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
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My 63 Avanti has a DANA 27 in it. Since my car was an early production (R1370), Is it possible that this was the original axle?
The odd thing is that the trackbar mounts were torched off and do not line up with where the track bar would land.
I'd like to replace this axle. I'm looking at a Ford Ranger 8.8" from a 1993 to 2009. The wheel mount surface to wheel mount surface is the same (58.5") and the bolt pattern is the same.
Has anyone used the Ford 8.8 axle as a swap? Is there an alternative that would work?
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16 hours ago, Avanti83 said:
This is the setup in my 74. The ground runs from the battery to the rear body mount then along the frame to a contact point by the engine and then grounded directly to the engine. Power runs through the disconnect, along the frame to the starter and feeds the main fusebox from there.
The additional fuse and ground points in the trunk allow me to provide 12 volts without running a mass of wires along the frame. The inline fuse is 200 amps.
Thanks for the ideas and photo. Did you maintain the solenoid in the engine compartment? I'm considering relocating the solenoid from the left fender apron to the truck also.
Since I replaced the original wire harness with a Painless performance "universal fit" harness all I would have to do is feed power to the fuse box and run a wire from the ignition switch back to the solenoid. The advantage that I see is that the heavy power line would only need to feed the starter. The one advantage of the Painless harness is that it has more circuit than I would ever use so I don't see a need for a power source in the engine compartment.
Your thoughts
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Did you use the bedding compound in the gasket channel into which the glass goes and along the body opening on the fence.
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I'm looking for some advice on the material needed to reinstall the windshield and rear glass. I'm looking for suggestions.
Windshield: The workshop manual says:
- lay a heavy bead of waterproof windshield sealant in the glass channel
- bead of soft bedding compound around windshield opening
Rear Window:
- Lay a strip of PPG 1072 Butyl vulcanized tape on the outside area of the window. I can't find the required tape as described in the manual. Is there a substitute?
- Bead of waterproof sealer along the body opening on the fence. Would this be the same sealant as used on the windshield?
I did see 3M™ Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound suggested in a forum discussion. Might this be the "soft bedding Compound"?
Any Suggestions
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I like the idea of a tube to vent off any gas. Most kits I see include #2-gauge wire that seems insufficient. I'm considering #1-gauge or larger welder wire. Your thoughts?
I'm also thinking of relocating the solenoid to the trunk. That way the heavy cable will only feed the starter. I'll then have to run a wire from the relocated solenoid to the fuse box. Am I missing anything?
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I am considering relocating the battery to the trunk in my 63 R1. Are there any reason I should not? Since the trunk is essentially open to the passenger compartment are battery vapors an issue?
My main reason to relocate the battery is the convenience of knowing that I can replace the battery anywhere and at any time. Freeing up room in the engine bay would be nice also.
I have this vision of being at a small-town diner and being greeted with a dead battery.
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I'm recovering the seats on a 63 Avanti. The front seat cushions are in rather bad shape (lower especially) and the rear seat springs are all but gone. The springs on the rear are the small springs that attach to and stabilize the top of the coil springs. Does anyone know of a source for either the cushions or the srings?
Thanks
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I am in the process of replacing the mechanical fuel pump in my R1 with an electric pump. My question is should I maintain a fuel return line as currently installed. The electric pump is installed on the frame roughly below the back seat.
If yes, can I deactivate the existing mechanical but still use it to route the line to the carb and the return line? On the electrical side I have installed an oil pressure switch as well as an inertia switch so I should be OK.
Thanks
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I recently removed the torque converter on my 63 Avanti to find that the ring gear has three teeth sheared off and as many as 10 or so in various state of disrepair. My first intent would be to replace it but here is my mystery!
The Avanti repair manual indicates that the serial number suffix should be "HR". Joh Myer'd discussion on the Studebaker Resource Website states that the 2-letter prefix (he may have meant suffix) should be a combination of "B", "H" or "R". He continues on to state that an "FT" code indicates a standard converter. My converter has an "FX" code?
Is this converter wrong for and "R" engine. Might it be a standard (low stall) converter?
If I was to install a standard converter, how much of a performance loss would there be? Any other ill affect with a low-stall converter.
I ask because Avantipart.biz and Advance Auto has a converter available but I'm kinda sure they are low-stall.
Appreciate your thoughts
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Some great ideas and suggestions. Thanks. I do agree that cleaning the water jacket is a must-do. What a mess in there. Since I'll be pulling the frost plugs anyway, now is the time. I was thinking of rodding out the passages and flushing as best I can. Would a product like CLR be helpful?
It sounds like I might be wise to pull the heads and see if carbon is a issue as well as check the thickness of the head gasket and replace the valve seals. Also it would give me the opportunity to see if hardened valve seats were ever installed,
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I ran a compression check on a newly acquired 63 R1 and got consistent readings in the 215 to 225 psi, manual indicates that normal is 185. Can you have to much of a good thing? The woman I purchased it from owned it since 1985 and says that the engine has not been apart. Before her is anyone guess. Possibly at some point the heads and block were shaved? The only negative I can come up with is a high buildup of carbon. Any thoughts? The car has about 65,000 miles and ran well for the short test drive.
Second question: Since I'm pulling the engine but not tearing it down (hopefully), what items should I address/replace. I do plan to remove the oil pan and valve covers to take a look around. The frost plugs are bad so they will be replaced. Any other "must does" that are wise investments with this engine? Timing gear, oil pump? I appreciate your input.
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Thanks everyone for the great information. I'll follow your suggestions.
Gunslinger: If all works out I will be interested in the registers that you have available so let me know the what you want for them.
Tom
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Bob
I looked on the ebay link but I don't see a picture of the power switches. I hope to restore the Avanti to as close to original as possible so my first chore is to find original switches. If none are to be had I am fine with keeping the manual setup. Any thought on where to score the switches would be great.
MFG: if your setup is factory, would you send a photo of the switches?
Does anyone know what options item "X84 AC3286" on my Production Order stands for.
Tom
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I recently purchased a 63 Avanti with what I thought was crank windows. To my surprise, the Production Order information from the Studebaker Museum indicates that the car was originally fitted with power windows! Upon a closer look I found the wire harness was cut and stuffed into the door posts and the drivers side door panel still has the original mounting hole for the original switch. I don't see the original relay and wire harness in the engine bay though.
I would like to re-establish the power window. It appears that I can buy aftermarket window lifts complete with harness but I would like to install an original switch set. Any idea where I could get a pair of new or used switches. Does anyone have a good picture of the original items? The Avanti parts manual suggests a oval-shaped switch plate with a raised ridge.
Also, the last line on the production order is "X84 AC3286 L&R. This appears to have been added in at a later time because the font is quite different. My guess is lap belts because I found them buried in the trunk!
Thanks for your help on this. I'm new to Avanti and new to the forum.
Tom
Rear Axle Shims
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted
Thanks Leo B for the photo of the setup for measuring the axle end play. The photo is the manual is hard to interpret. I thought the manual was indicating that the end play was measuring the movement of the axle forward and backwards as if to measure play between the bearing and race.