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Pete Rutledge

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Everything posted by Pete Rutledge

  1. Since I posted this AM, thanks to a Studebaker neighbor, I have located an R2 "parts carb."
  2. Yesterday I removed my carb to rebuild it and found that it was cracked (significantly) at two of the four corner mounting pads (see pictures). So I need to replace the main body (the lower 2/3 of the carb that includes the fuel bowls) of a 3588S Carter AFB for an Avanti R2. I don't need the upper part of the carb that has the plate with the text about it being an Avanti carb. I am more than willing to pay a fair price. Thanks, Pete
  3. Thank you for the reply and the info. In the meantime, I cleaned the map light switch; now I can turn the map light on and off with the switch when the doors are closed. So I guess it is all good now. We're making progress getting everything working again.
  4. The owner's manual says the dome lights come on when the doors are opened and the map light over the console area can be manually switched on. In my car (R5083), the map light comes on when the doors are opened and the dome lights do not. The dome lights can be individually switched on and off with their respective manual slider switches. When the doors are closed, the map light will not manually switch on (I do suspect this is wrong and will be checking that switch). So how should the interior lights operate and did this change at any point in the production run? Thanks, Pete
  5. Thanks to 64studeavanti for the answer to where the plate piece goes. So it doesn't attach to anything--it just lies there loose under the battery and on top of the battery box floor? It would be odd that it has holes, cuts, and bends but doesn't attach to anything. Or does it attach to something?
  6. I finished installation of the strap-like battery support today. I shortened the longer leg of the support by 3/4" (cut it and welded it back together). Then I found that it obstructed two holes in the battery box--one for the non-fixed battery J-bolt and one for a 1/4" bolt holding a clip for the wiring harness that goes to the left headlight and parking/signal light. So I had to notch the support in two places to clear those holes. I also repaired the crack in the battery box with fiberglass and hopefully, with the aid of the new support, it won't crack again. At this point, I don't plan to use the other, plate-like support I got from SI unless someone chimes in with a good reason to use it and some clues on where to put it.
  7. Well, I managed to remove the two rusty bolts that will hold the strap-like battery brace in place. Then I found out that the longer leg of the brace is about 3/4" too long (see picture) for a Studebaker Avanti, due to its lower fenders compared to the Avanti II. So I will have to cut the longer leg and weld it back together to make it 3/4" shorter. Then it will work just fine. Still don't know where to put the plate-like support. Maybe an Avanti II owner can shed some light on it.
  8. I was working on the Avanti battery box this afternoon (preparing for fiberglass repair) and have answered literally half of my initial question. The strap-like piece goes on top of the frame rail and under the inner edge of the battery box. Its front end attaches to the front bolt on top of the frame rail in the attached picture (a view from the front left wheel well--disregard the popsicle sticks I'm using as shims to raise the battery box for fiberglass repair) . That front bolt fastens the left radiator support bracket to the top of the left frame rail. The rear end of the strap connects to the rear bolt on top of the frame rail in the picture. That bolt goes through the frame rail and through the rear hole in the stabilizer bar left bracket. The two ends of the strap are at different levels because the two bolts it attaches to are at different heights above the frame rail as you can see in the picture. The long portion of the strap lies under and supports the inner edge of the battery box, which is where the battery box needs the most help. As for the other part, I can see a number of ways it might fit in the battery box from above and not sure which is the right way. Also not sure of the purpose of the various holes in this piece. Also not really sure about its purpose. So I still need some help, but only half as much as before.
  9. I purchased Stude Int'l part number 800076, battery tray reinforcement, for $60 about a year ago. It consists of two pieces (see picture) and came with no instructions. From looking at the two pieces, it is not obvious to me how to install it. The only clue is in the catalog description, which reads "Metal panel fits under battery. Bracket bolts to radiator support & front sway bar bolt. Standard on later models. Good addition on earlier models." My battery tray cracked many years ago (long before I owned it) and was "fixed" by using 9 screws to fasten an L-shaped piece of sheet metal across the crack. I have removed the rusty screws (had to grind the heads off) and the old sheet metal and will now repair the cracked fiberglass. While I don't normally like to make non-original modifications, I do plan to add the new bracket as I can see that the battery tray structure is pretty marginal for supporting a heavy battery. All that said, does anyone know how this bracket attaches? Photos of one that has been installed would be worth a thousand words. Thanks.
  10. Larry, You'll find more info and pictures of this car on Bob's Studebaker Resource Website at http://www.studebaker-info.org/avantix4.html#r4300. Look for its VIN. I don't see an engine number in the material on Bob's site. The engine is painted red; it should be black (it's black in the 3rd entry on Bob's site). You could certainly call the seller and ask for a picture of the stamp pad on the engine, but I don't see any documents with the engine number on them. The 2nd entry on Bob's website does refer to the seller's dad rebuilding "the 289 that's in it now," which implies it might not be the original engine. Pete
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