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Mike Sal

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Posts posted by Mike Sal

  1. I looked thru some of the books I have out in the shop & found that my color chip books (Martin Senour)only go back to '72. I'll have Sonya look thru them this week to see if anything is close. I'll also try to find a paint store that can mix colors (I live out in the sticks so any paint store is a drive of some kind). Seems nothing is ever simple.....

    Mike S

  2. The main reason I was looking for a small spray can of touch up was two fold....to paint my model car to match our real car....and to touch up a couple small spots on the real car until we can get the entire car re-painted. I also have to find some Lime Green paint to match the color of the carpets....I wouldn't want the model to share in the "60's flair"!

    Mike S

  3. Can anyone help with where I can find the paint code for my Monterey Green car? I remember someone telling me it was a Cadillac color (Monterey green firemist??)? The local NAPA store can make up a touch up can of paint for me if I can get the GM code. They thought they had something yesterday but it wouldn't cross into a NAPA number & the sample they made up was just a little lighter than the sample I brought them (the cowl vent from the drivers side)...I think it had too much metal flake in it which made it look like a lighter shade.

    thanks,

    Mike Sal

  4. The primary intention for the emergency brake is to check the potential energy of the vehicle, not the kinetic energy...in other words, prevent a stationary object from moving rather than stopping one that's already in motion. Having said that, it's secondary role is provide a mechanical means of reducing the kinetic energy of a moving vehicle in case of main brake system failure.

  5. The emergency brake is a means to spread the brake shoes mechanically rather than hydraulically. If the shoes are pushed out effectively (meaning everything is in order as mentioned above) then the brake drum should be restricted from turning in either direction.

    Mike Sal

  6. Not sure if you've messed with chevy starters before, but the solenoid is essentially an electromagnet. When you turn the key to start, voltage is fed thru to the small wire attached to the solenoid to energize the magnet. The metal plunger is drawn towards the center of the magnet, which does two things at the same time....it pulls a linkage that shoves the starter drive into the flywheel.....and....pushes a brass washer into the 2 main motor contacts which spins the electric motor.

    If there is no "click" when you turn the key, it means the solenoid isn't energizing. When you say you can hook up jumper cables to get it to start, do you mean hooking the cables to the battery (meaning you've increased the available amperage)? If there was a thick coat of paint on the block before the starter was bolted on, it's possible a marginal ground is the culprit.

    I am still leaning on a bad solenoid as the problem (the fluctuating ammeter says there is some amount of current draw....shorted windings maybe). If there had been a click but no motor spinning, it might have been the windings in the motor.

    Lots o luck

    Mike S

  7. My '70 has a small metal heat shield between the starter & exhaust pipe & it appears to be stock, but would have to look at it again to be sure. Sounds like the starter is heat soaking. Does the solenoid "click" when you turn the key or is there complete silence? If it's not a ground problem (you said the car was freshly restored....meaning there could be paint interfering with a proper ground), a new starter (or solenoid...depending on your answer above) will probably fix it.

    Mike Sal

  8. Well, SI doesn't have any housings in stock (they had to return the last batch due to quality issues), and Nostalgic only has the bronze castings which you have to find your own plater in order to have the chrome applied. I had SI put me on the back order list for when ever they get a new batch.....I should have known this wouldn't be easy....it never is....

    Mike Sal

  9. Our RQA 0330 has lime green carpet & green vinyl seats A portion of the color has worn off of the vinyl seats.

    I've been told about a body shop with corvette experience that I'm going to take the car to for an estimate if it ever stops raining. It will be interesting to hear their opinions regarding scrapping vs sanding vs stripping the old paint.

    thanks for the Cadillac reference. I think that will help the body shop source the right paint (maybe I'm old fashioned, but having a data base to start with seems to be more secure than scanning & analyzing with a machine).

    BTW, how do you edit your tag line....I'd like to have my vin number listed along with the model year like the rest of you, but I can't seem to find where to do it.

    thanks,

    Mike S

  10. Now another question regarding the paint itself. Were the paints formulated for Studebaker / Avanti Motors, or did the use available colors the big 3 were already using? Our car is "Monterey Green" (don't have the paint code in front of me at the moment). Can I find out if this was a big 3 color, or do I have to have the body shop color match it & blend it up from scratch?

    thanks,

    Mike S

  11. Arghhhhhh......my sister in law & family came by this evening to return some scaffolding they had borrowed & we all went out for dinner afterwards. My nephew is autistic & really likes my old cars. This was their first time to see the Avanti after we got it, so he really wanted to ride in it, so he & I took it while the rest went in their truck.

    Anyway, after coming home I was backing the car into the garage & had to tuck it in behind the '66 commander that I'm working on. I mis-judged when to cut the wheel, and clipped the corner of the commander bumper. It took a little chip out of the fiberglass at the bottom corner of the turn signal opening, cracked the chrome bezel, and broke off the lower part of the lens below the screw.......I'm so bummed......

    So...what is this goof going to cost me in parts? I still need to get the car painted so the body damage didn't worry me too much.....

    Mike Sal

  12. We were at an antique store today & ran across a new-in-the-box Midland brand radio.....am/fm/8 track. Looks to be late 60's / early 70's manufacture. We were on the bike & the saddle bags were already overflowing, so I didn't pick it up. What are the chances this thing would fit into the dash of my '70 Avaniti without modification?

    thanks,

    Mike Sal

  13. Our RQA 0330 has one mirror, on the drivers door. It's location interferes with opening the vent window enough to be of much use. When we repaint the car I'd like to move the location and add one to the passengers side. I see some mirrors located on the front fenders, but not quite sure I'd want them so far away (my eyesight isn't getting any better).

    I'd like to hear some opinions on what has worked well with you regarding mirror locations (ex. is there enough room to move the mirror just enough to clear the vent window without looking goofey?). I'm such a tight wad, I'm cringing about the price of new mirrors too.....

    thanks,

    Mike Sal

  14. I noticed that they (the factory) also added filler pieces to the header panel where the front bumper brackets pass thru. These would have to be cut out to lower the body on the frame. At least that's how my '69 built car is.

    Mike S

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