Jump to content

Rivets for Battery hold down bracket


Stormy
 Share

Recommended Posts

For Avanti 4042 Studebaker Int. offers Part # 1350251 the battery hold down bracket .  This part is attached to the inside of the front left wheel well with 4 rivets of some sort.  Studebaker Int. has been unable to find rivets for this use and the Studebaker Avanti Parts Manual shows the rivets, but there is no part number for them.  Does anyone know what these rivets might be, and what tool is required to install them ?  Thanks for your help.  Daryl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd have to look at my '63 to know for sure, but no doubt those rivets are either 3/16 or 1/4 inch in diameter, with a depth of about 1/2 inch.

These would be readily available at hardware stores, although you may end up purchasing a box of 25 or so.

A pop-rivet tool is needed to set them....and inexpensive ones are available at many stores. (Harbor Freight, etc.)

I'd use aluminum bodied rivets,...they don't rust, and are easier to 'pop' than the steel ones!:)

 

PS...use a small, thin piece of sheetmetal or aluminum, on opposite side of fiberglass skirt, to 'reinforce' the repair!

Edited by mfg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Stormy said:

mfg, thank you.  If they have stainless steel rivets, that might be a good choice ?

Your welcome!.....I wouldn't use stainless steel rivets for this job.....they're extra hard to set, and you're only anchoring into fiberglass.

I'd go with an aluminum pop-rivet (body & mandrel).....they're plenty strong....stronger than that inner fender!:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎10‎/‎16‎/‎2018 at 6:58 PM, mfg said:

Your welcome!.....I wouldn't use stainless steel rivets for this job.....they're extra hard to set, and you're only anchoring into fiberglass.

I'd go with an aluminum pop-rivet (body & mandrel).....they're plenty strong....stronger than that inner fender!:)

Exactly correct. Stainless or std. steel pop rivets have too much grip strength for fiberglass use. Save those for metal/metal joining. All aluminum rivets with aluminum backing washers is the way to go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't worry about that, Daryl. Personally, I'd use something like a carriage bolt (no hex head, no slotted head) for a nice rounded appearance.This would resemble a rivet from the engine compartment side. Cut the bolt to length, if needed, although I've seen very short ones at the hardware store. You can also round the square shoulder under the carriage bolt head with a grinder or file, if needed. That's not a big deal...I've done that many times, when I wanted a rivet "look", but didn't want to (or couldn't) use a real rivet.  To me, a pop rivet will always look....like a pop rivet from the top. While a pop rivet would certainly be functional, it would seem very unfactory-like in appearance.

Just one other quick thought, in case you were wondering: I haven't looked at my all-original '63, but I believe the rivet (or whatever) and the threaded holddown bracket are painted body color. Someone will correct me on this, if needed.  John

Edited by Jolly-John
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Auveco brand pop-rivets, in 3/16" and 1/4" diameter sizes, have a rounded 'head' which duplicates the snap-rivets Studebaker used when building the Avanti bodies almost exactly.

I agree that some of the other brands, especially in the smaller (1/16"-1/8") sizes, have a 'flat' head look which is obviously not original.

Once again, installed correctly rivets work very well, and without a washer and nut hanging off the bottom of them!:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...