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Battery Fit in 83


A83

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I took the battery out to see why there was a piece of wood in the battery "well" or compartment and noticed that without the wood piece a standard battery does not seem to fit and that the compartment has an irregular shape.  Whoever put the wood base in mounted it with a 2 inch base and then a wood irregular shaped top to match the angles in the upper portion of the compartment.  This made a level base for the battery to sit on an angle to fit the space.  They then tied a string around the battery and the wood looping it through a nearby  hole in the fiberglass.

Is there a battery that will fit the original opening?  Is there a battery way to anchor the battery?  I can replicate the wood platform and 2 inch base if I have to out of something else but would like suggestions on alternative installations, battery sizes and anchoring.c

Thank you.

A83 Kevin

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Sounds like Bubba was there... but then, I've been known to emulate Bubba myself, occasionally.

Here is a chart of battery sizes: http://www.batteryweb.com/bci.cfm

I am using size 24; 34 will fit , maybe even better (same as 24 except 1" shorter), as will any battery very close to those outside dimensions. The tricky part is the terminal type and location on the battery, which the chart does not address fully, and the battery hold-down clamp; you need one that spans the threaded hold-down posts and still clamps the battery body, so if you depart from the 24/34 battery width you are on your own to figure out a way to clamp the battery securely in place. Battery cables can, of course, be changed-out for cables with different (ie, side-mount) terminals, but then terminal clearances and cable lengths need to be determined.

The other issue is that the fiberglass battery box (part of the fender) is not well supported on the bottom side and that heavy battery eventually cracks the fender. Lord only knows why Avanti Motors never adequately addressed that issue (apparently they employed no engineers). I added some support shimming atop the frame beneath the battery on several of my Avanti's over the years. Others have gone so far as to fit a metal battery box from another vehicle into their Avanti, bolted to the frame. If you go Bubba, some car battery boxes are little more than trays that bolt to the frame and clamp the lower edges of the battery. There was a thread on that subject a couple of years ago, with a description of a battery box grafted-in by SBCA96 (Tom), but apparently that thread must have gotten lost when the forum changed a few years back, but it is also available here:

   http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?94019-1969-Avanti-Battery-Tray-restoration-and-upgrade

Here is the underside of my '80 Avanti battery box, truly inadequate to the task of supporting the battery, and does not even attempt to secure the threaded rods holding the battery clamp; frankly I'm not sure if that metal support is original:

 

 

IMGP0208 450x600.JPG

Edited by WayneC
added info
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Thank you both  - the current battery is a Napa Legend 9" x 6 1 /4 " with side cable mounts - if the smaller batteries come with top mounts will putting in New cables become a big job?  

Kevin 

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Not if you use a pair of these.

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/battery-terminal-end-and-adapter/duralast-battery-terminal-end-and-adapter/95971_0_0

Otherwise you can run new cables but one must connect to the starter one the other side of the engine. Still not a bad job.

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My positive cable was starting to look like it was going to give birth. I sliced it open for a peek and it was green inside. Changed both cables, the negative was easy, the positive just had to routed around the firewall to the starter. My friendly NAPA guy built the longer positive cable with the ends compressed on. I think that might be a little better than the bolt on ends. Definitely makes a difference spinning the starter without that bad cable robbing a little voltage. 

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Thanks to you both.  Do the side terminal ends screw into the top post do verters?  Also is it difficult to install new cable to the starter and the negative _ is there just one connection for each end? I am not real knowledgeable here? 

 

Footer is you battery standard size? Mine won't fit the space and go to the bottom of the battery well and the fan cowl gets in the way

 

 

 

Thanks - Kevin

 

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Kevin

Take a look at Wayne’s battery size chart. I have a 34, Wayne has a 24,same dimensions but the 34 is an inch shorter. I have top posts, here is a little better photo. 

0ED5EC09-93CF-4D64-BEFD-B422F1B905B6.jpeg

Edited by Footer
I said taller, I meant shorter.
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Wayne, I’d say I’m old and give me a break, but I think I’m about the same age as Gunslinger and look at him go! Going to a car show in Harrington, Washington tomorrow. First time out with our 83, so kind of excited. Have a good weekend. 

http://www.thestudebakergarage.com/2017-harrington-car-show

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Fixed my earlier post, the 34 battery is an inch shorter than the 24, other than that the same width and length. 

The show in Harrington was fun. Four other Avantis, several Hawks and other Studes.  Fun to see the old Ford dealership converted into a Studebaker Museum  

 

459F7064-6671-47FC-A13B-1791A236D5AA.jpeg

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Thank you everyone.  I looked up batteryweb per Wayne C and they recommended an Odyssey 925.  It is 26 pounds 7.1 inches wide by 6.70 long so it should fit in the 8 x 7 space.  Height is 5.1 so should be no problem. They have many sizes and batteries and said the battery will work in any position except upside down and should be strong enough for the car. Now that I am thinking about it I hope the recessed threads are 3/8" .  

Will let you know how it went when the battery comes in.

Then will have to get a battery tray and/or anchoring mechanism.

Thanks again.

Kevin

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Kevin, if you haven't owned an Odyssey battery before, be aware that if you ever are in a situation where the Odyssey has run down (discharged) completely, it needs to be slow-charged while wired in parallel with a normal lead/acid battery (using a pair of battery jumper cables). I didn't know that when I purchased my first Odyssey, and had a dead-battery situation about 18 months later; when my attempts to recharge it failed, I traded it in as a core to purchase a lead-acid replacement. Dooohhh, expensive lesson!!!! Found out about the parallel charging trick a year or so later (and I've always wondered if the shop where I traded it in was well-aware of that trick).

Edited by WayneC
correction
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I have an Optima redtop in my car and several other cars overt the years.  My experience is that if you keep it on a battery tender it will last for years.  If you let the car sit for long periods and the battery discharges several times, it won't last that long.  When they go they go suddenly.  

I use a Battery Tender brand and have had no problems.  I have read that the charger marketed by Optima is allegedly superior for the use but that could simply be marketing hype.  

Auto Zone sells a AGM type battery now in standard shapes (unlike Optima) and it runs less than an Optima...at least several years ago when I purchased one for a car I've since sold.

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Wayne 

never owned an Odyssey before thanks for the heads up.  I jumped at the battery because of the size fit. Do you mean it has to be parallel wired if it is fully discharged and you have to connect it to another battery? Does that ruin the other battery? 

If  not fully discharged can I use a battery fender on it?  I also have a battery charger that can do a slow precondition charge _ will that work if it's run down?I

Thanks 

Kevin

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Disclaimer: I am not a battery expert or an electrical engineer.

If you connect a charger to an Odyssey that is too far depleted, it will not take a charge. Dunno if that's always the case or if there are other circumstances that come into play. If you connect the Odyssey in parallel (plus-to-plus and negative-to-negative) with a lead acid battery using battery jumper cables (neither battery connected to the vehicle cables) and then connect the charger to one of the batteries, there's a good chance both batteries will charge (but it will take time, perhaps a day or more). I'm not sure, but I think if the Odyssey is not too far discharged, you can use a trickle charger normally to keep it fully charged ("topped off") in the car, like any other battery. I have no idea whether your slow precondition charge would work on a fully-discharged Odyssey.

Here are some links I found with a Google seearch:

 http://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/ODYSSEY_Battery_Reconditioning_Charge_Procedure.pdf

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-1009-how-to-charge-a-agm-battery/

 

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Thanks again -  appreciate all the help.

I have been emailing back and forth with a guy named Mike from Battery Mart (found them online).  He said that the Odyssey batteries require a 6 amp charge in order to keep them topped off (fully charged).  He recommended a Schauer Charge Master. CM6A  automatic charger which can be left connected to the car when not in use and it will not hurt the battery. He seems very knowledgeable and leaves detailed email explanations which helped  me understand.  The Schauer can also be used to charge at 1 amp and 4 amps so it can be used for other types of batteries as well. Their price is $54.95.

,Also their battery prices look very competitive but check the return policy with any company you deal with.

Per Odyssey, The Odyssey  battery is designed to accept a charge even when it is drained pretty low. If it gets too low or has not been routinely charged back to hear of full capacity ( which causes it to deve!op sulfate oxide) it can be difficult to recover. This is when you can try to use another battery to get the Odyssey up to 11.5 volts and then switch to a suitable charger.  Odyssey has a detailed explanation on how to do this on their website. I am just repeating what I read.

The Schauer charger is also a desulfator.

Battery came today and I will see if it fits tomorrow.  Too tired to get ticked off tonite if it doesn't.

Thanks again everyone.

Ps.  I am trying to replace a dual bolt ( 1/4" bolt ) power distribution block (junction block)that has some cables attached to it that power the fan.  This is probably peculiar to my car but just in case anyone is looking I found one online at Del City.  Could not find them at local auto parts stores. My original works but looks pretty sad and the covering is broken.

 Kevin 

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Okay battery fits nicely BUT it has 3/8 inch recessed thread on each side on top so essentially it is a side post on top..  The bolts for my side post cables look to be 5/16" ( crude measurement).  I would like to adapt to without changing the cables as the battery fits so well.

1.  The battery came with top post adapters so maybe I can put them on and the get a top post to side post adapter  but would need a 5/16" threaded end to accept the rounded insulated rubber cable ends and bolts.

 This sounds the easiest right now and I still want to hook up a set of pig tails so I can hook up a charger. 

2.  Maybe I can find a double threaded reducer battery bolt with a 3/8" thread and 5 /16" thread and still use the existing cable ends if they make these for batteries.and the rounded insulated ends fit properly on the 5/16" end. This eliminates the top post adapters.

 3. I tried to see if the existing rounded insulated end  battery cables would cover the new battery holes and then use a washer and put the new 3 /8" bolts in the 5/16" opening but don't know if  it would seat properly and if cutting our shaving some of the insulated existing ends to fit the new battery configuration  would work without causing some safety or electrical problem  - otherwise this would be ideal. I would have to use a longer bolt to set up the pig tails.

Sorry if I am running you guys ragged with this but any thoughts? I

On my way to auto zone to see what they have.

 Thanks.

Kevin A83

 

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Sorry, I'm not able to follow your descriptions. I don't have an '83. Your old battery had side terminals that used a 5/16th inch bolt, and the new battery has 3/8" threaded holes atop the battery for older-style battery posts, and you want to use your old side-mount cables atop the battery rather than on the side of the battery?

I'm confused.

A picture is worth a thousand words (as are links), annotated pictures are worth even more.

Would this help? (probably not, it sounds like you need 5/16 threaded holes for your old cables)...

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/battery-terminal-end-and-adapter/duralast-battery-terminal-end-and-adapter/102303_0_0

 

battery cable adapter.jpg

Edited by WayneC
clarification, added snapshot
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