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Stu-v R3


Rags63

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I have an r3 engine that was purchased from stu-v products co. With r2 heads machined by them as well.  I am going through the engine and in need of some help finding parts. The one I am having a hard time with is valve seals. From what I have found the heads were reworked for chevy valves. Dose anyone know what chevy valves might have been used? With the engine out is there any thing I should look for?

Some pic of engine now and when it was new any help is greatly appreciated thanks 

 

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I have an  R2 which was modified with Chevy valves back in the 60’s. I probably won’t be able to help much as it’s been so long since I even looked at it. I remember the builder told me it had Chevy valves that needed to be modified for the Stude retainers and possibly shortened do to rocker stand height. I think the valve seals used were the Chevy o rings only. I remember the valves being close to two inch diameter. They did fit down a standard bore with the heads on. I wonder if you might be better off going with R3 valves which are readily available these days.

I like the vintage photos. Do you know the guy’s name in the photo? Was it Eastburn? Is there a B or A number stamped on the block around the distributor mounting surface or on the machined surface at the front of the block? Any interesting history with the engine?

 

 

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I know that the value guides were shortened for chevy valves. Also the valves spring seats were machined for dual springs. Valve sizes are Intake 1.94 exhaust 1.625 

The guy in the photo in my grandfather David Ragsdale. As for the A or B I will have to look. The engine was purchased from stu-v by my grandfather. I also found an old stu-v catalog.

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Seeing that STU-V catalog brings back some memories.  Back in the 1970s, I bought a pair of stock steel wheels from STU-V to replace the mags that came on the front of my Avanti when I bought it.  

The Studebaker wheels came with tires mounted and a condition of the sale was I had to give the tires back after I had my new tires mounted.  That was because the wheels and tires had come from an Avanti that the Granatellis had run on the salt flats.

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Well I hope you get it going soon. I guess it’s going into the Avanti? Are you located n Southern California?

Now that you mention machining the head for the valve spring, I remember that being done also. The fellow that I got the heads from was actually an employee of Studebaker in South Bend.

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40 minutes ago, psdenno said:

Seeing that STU-V catalog brings back some memories.  Back in the 1970s, I bought a pair of stock steel wheels from STU-V to replace the mags that came on the front of my Avanti when I bought it.  

The Studebaker wheels came with tires mounted and a condition of the sale was I had to give the tires back after I had my new tires mounted.  That was because the wheels and tires had come from an Avanti that the Granatellis had run on the salt flats.

I remember dropping into Stu V around 1971 or 72. On each side of the garage door was a stack of Allstate Bonneville tires. I have six or seven of those in my garage now. They weigh very little but they are hard as a rock after sixty years.

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1 hour ago, Nelson said:

Well I hope you get it going soon. I guess it’s going into the Avanti? Are you located n Southern California?

Now that you mention machining the head for the valve spring, I remember that being done also. The fellow that I got the heads from was actually an employee of Studebaker in South Bend.

It is going in to the avanti. I am in northern California. I am going to put all new seals and gaskets. Debating on doing head gaskets.

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18 hours ago, Nelson said:

I have an  R2 which was modified with Chevy valves back in the 60’s. I probably won’t be able to help much as it’s been so long since I even looked at it. I remember the builder told me it had Chevy valves that needed to be modified for the Stude retainers and possibly shortened do to rocker stand height. I think the valve seals used were the Chevy o rings only. I remember the valves being close to two inch diameter. They did fit down a standard bore with the heads on. I wonder if you might be better off going with R3 valves which are readily available these days.

I like the vintage photos. Do you know the guy’s name in the photo? Was it Eastburn? Is there a B or A number stamped on the block around the distributor mounting surface or on the machined surface at the front of the block? Any interesting history with the engine?

 

 

There is a B 154 by the distributor. What dose the B stand for?

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3 minutes ago, Rags63 said:

There is a B 154 by the distributor. What dose the B stand for?

The "B" means an R3 or R4 engine.  If that's the only number stamped into the block then the engine was sold in a crate (i.e., not in a car).  From what I have read there were a few R3/R4 engines with an "A" prefix built before the B series.

--Dwight

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That is an awfully high B number. Maybe built after the initial and secondary builds. Or it could be built to R3 specs by the builder. If you pull a cylinder head you will know for sure. The bore entrance of an R3 will be chamfered for large valves which can be done on a standard block, but a more positive ID is the water jacket hole between cylinders is smaller diameter on original R3 blocks. That check is for the purist. Nothing else is magic about the block.

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12 hours ago, Rags63 said:

It is going in to the avanti. I am in northern California. I am going to put all new seals and gaskets. Debating on doing head gaskets.

Like the R4 carb setup on your R3 engine...with a custom "Y" to split the boost, it will be awesome! 👍

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7 minutes ago, Rags63 said:

I am going to order a valve spring compressor. Any suggestions on which to buy? Also where can I find the fitting to go into the spark plug for compressed air?

For the fitting, I normally butcher the porcelin out of a used spark plug, braze an air fitting to it, and you're all set!

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  • 3 weeks later...

OK here is a little up date I did decide to pull the heads. I am glad I did there is some nicks on the top of one piston you can see it in the picture. Now trying to figure out the next step. Hopefully I will be able to pull the value springs this weekend. 

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Chevy valves are shorter than Studebaker valves. Usually, you had to machine the rocker stands down and use sorter push rods to run them (Chevy valves). 

 

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I received my valve spring compressor today. I was able to get the valves out I am still not sure what type of valve seals these are.Hopefully someone can help me out with this. Any thoughts on what to do with the piston that has the marks on top.

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