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My New Avanti R2


Guest dapy

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We have completed an inspection and here are questions: What is the source for the 'long' battery; how do we know when/if the supercharger is working, replacement RPM will be needed, and proper radial tires? Appreciate any and all advice. If too complicated let's use private email. Dave Pyle dap8@comcast.net

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I'm not too familiar with the supercharger but the pulley should turn freely without any kind of grinding or drag. You use transmission fluid in it. As far as when it's working, the boost should rise with rpm's...you should be able to see it on the vacuum/pressure gauge. If the needle swings to the pressure (not vacuum) side of the gauge, the supercharger is working. At what point the gauge should read positive pressure rather than vacuum I don't know. I've driven R2's before but have never owned one, so I'm not too familiar with those characteristics.

For the 3EE battery, it's found at battery warehouses that sell industrial batteries...it's used in forklifts and such. Other vendors such as Interstate and maybe others may catalog it but likely have to order it. It's really not tough to find, but that's small consolation if you're on the road somewhere with a dead one. Some have found a Honda brand battery which is slightly smaller but more available.

Radial tires...the closest size which correlates is a P195/75R15, but good luck finding them...a tough size to find without going to specialty tire companies which can be pricey. If you can find a P205/75R15 it will fit fine and be more readily available from different manufacturers.

An R2 is a nice car to have. Hope you enjoy it.

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The 3EE battery was the easiest part of the restoration.

Any big tire/battery store, especially in rural areas, will have them. I bought mine for $80 from Les Schwab, a big chain here in the northwest.

Slap a Studebaker battery decal on it and you're good to go and it looks stock.

I have Cooper Trendsetter SE 205/75R15 tires with the correct narrow white wall. Again, about $80 each.

No need to buy expensive retro items.

Edited by J Boyle
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There will be considerable drag when trying to turn the supercharger pulley, it won't be like spinning the alternator. At idle you can remove the carb bonnet and feel air but it's difficult to see the amount of boost without driving the car. Most will produce 3-5 at the gage at high RPM's and will whine a little even at idle. It's the 'marbles in the can' noises you don't want to hear and if you can't generate at least 3 lbs of boost it probably needs to be rebuilt. Leaks at the bonnet to carb gasket, and the wrong type, or bad PCV valve can reduce boost at the gage. It's just an air pump and if the air is leaking before it gets to the intake manifold boost will be weak.

We have completed an inspection and here are questions: What is the source for the 'long' battery; how do we know when/if the supercharger is working, replacement RPM will be needed, and proper radial tires? Appreciate any and all advice. If too complicated let's use private email. Dave Pyle dap8@comcast.net

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The RPM gauge (Tachometer) consists of the sending unit under the dash, and the head unit (gauge).

Usually the gauge is fine, and the sending unit is fried. Studebaker international, and Jon Meyers have replacement circuitry for the sending unit.

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