Devildog
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Posts posted by Devildog
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You seem to be knowledgeable about your cam and head work. But, if you need some coaching on breaking in that new cam, we are all pleased to help. Too many new flat tappet cam/lifter installs are ruined in the first 10-20 minutes of start-up.
Joe
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Wondered if there's anyone out there still using his/her Avanti as everyday transportation. I mean using your Avanti on sunny, rainy, snowy, windy, come what have you days..365 days a year.....Just wondering! (And this question would include ALL Avantis, '63 thru '02?)
I not only use my 75 Avanti as my main transportation, I BOUGHT it for my daily transportation. I have old Corvettes (which I routinely drive), pick-up truck, wife's SUV, but my step in and drive car is the Avanti.
I had been driving a newer Corvette as my 'business' car but wanted something roomier and on occasion haul four people short distance. I wanted something different, but cost effective and easily maintained. I even sat down on several occasions with a couple of my car builder buddies to plan a custom vehicle. Then I remembered the Avanti.
I did limited research of available Avanti (never drove one) and bought one out of state with new rebuild engine, 700R4 tranny and new paint. It is a comfortable car with good performance (after tuning it as a SBC should be), and a great WOW factor. Recently as I was leaving an office, I young lady asked about the car.
She had a great comment...that is beautiful car...just look around this parking lot, all these cars look the same...a person could mistake any of them for another... your car is fun to walk to and get in !
Joe
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Everyone likes a little a$$, but no one likes a smart a$$!
You guys kill me...I'm jealous. I just came in a few minutes ago...my feet are still numb.
The cold makes the whisky and cigar all the better.
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Here is the way Corvette did it on the early C-1 Corvette with a very similar X-frame which makes the H or X pipe a problem. It was special factory option on the high performance engines in late 60-70's.
Next time your out look at it...simple to do on your Avanti
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Triva is not trivial.
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We are OK, the red power wire between the ammeter and starter just simply pulled out of the connection crimp while I was moving them to see the wire color. There was no fusible link in the red wire; appears someone replaced it with piece of 1918 lamp cord with a fabric insulation when the link burnt out in past years.
Of course it had to fail just as I was doing some other electrical diagnoses.
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OK, now I have NO ELECTRICAL power...no lights, brake lights, nothing. I am guessing blew the 14 gauge red wire fusible link between the starter and the ammeter. I am not sure why???? I jumpered white/purple wire to by-pass the safety switch, I started the car OK...shifted thru the gears (P R N D) and then shutdown. When I tried to restart, no power. I had the safety switch removed from column ?????
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I think I will permanently jumper the PURPLE&WHITE wires to by-pass the safety switch and forget it.
Thanks
Joe
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More info, when a pull the two small WHITE and BLACK wires, the key does not engage the starter, nor if a jumper the two small terminals, the starter does not engage. Therefore it seems this funky green module is inop.
Again if I jumper the big PURPLE and WHITE wires, the key will engage the starter.
Joe
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Bob, yes tried moving the shift handle and banging on it. Where is that switch located? I looked up from the underside, but do not see a switch or lead wires.
Down lower on the column is this funky green switch type module. The PURPLE wire comes from the column starter switch that I replaced, the heavy gauge WHITE wire goes somewhere. However, when I pulled the connecter with PURPLE and WHITE wire and jumper them, the key will engage the starter. So, I guess the WHITE wire connect to secondary PURPLE wire that is attached to the 'S' terminal on starter.
Also, there is a small white and small black wire on terminal clip pair...no idea where they go...probably to some switch on the shifter????
thanks again
Joe
I hate any work under the dash, rather pull the engine that work under dash !
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I replaced the switch on the column which the rod activates as the key tumbler is turned (O'Reilly BW part #CS83). That was NOT the problem. The big relay on the side kick panel clicks, as I read the circuit there is a PURPLE wire that goes to the 'S' terminal on the starter. the PURPLE wire passes thru the 'neutral switch' on the tranny.
I will sort thru that purple wire circuit RELAY-> PURPLE wire -> NEUTRAL switch -> PURPLE wire -> S terminal on starter
Joe
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Thanks Bob,
That seems to be the unit. It cross references with 7000 GM and 600 Chrysler models
Thanks for the wiring as well
Joe
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OK, it has been 15 months since I started chasing my switch problem (been using push-button to engage starter).
I pulled the switch off the steering column that was located under the dash at the support bracket. It has a rod-stiff wire (10 gauge) that is rotated by the key tumbler on the column. It has three wiring harness clips which plug into the side of the 3 inch long switch, held on the column by two small screws.
has numbers 0096-> and 2N4K25
Any ideas what this may cross reference with such as the AMC or Chrysler ?
Many thanks Seasons best to all of you
Joe
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Sure...a small block Chebbie is a small block Chebbie. You can swap any if you like. You can get 427 small blocks that use modern casting methods for the additional displacement. THAT would be an engine that could spin the car around the starter!
There's also been more than one LS-series engine installed in an Avanti engine bay. I considered doing that with my car but the cost-benefit wasn't there for me, though I still would have liked to.
You mentioned the L-S series and just to stimulate others thinking. I have been helping a friend install a LS-3 from a low mileage roll-over salvage Camero in his C-2 Corvette. We helped another friend find salvage LS for another project. After looking at several salvage option, we found the best option was a NEW engine package from GM.
It was $7500 for a NEW LS-3 with wiring harness, an 'open' computer module, and the electronic accelerator peddle. LS-3 is the aluminum block, so that is something consider if one is looking higher performance.
Joe
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As usual, Gunny has it right. It is often difficult to find younger tech to rebuild a carb because they they think it is VOODOO magic. Get the ignition and timing correct first. Then get a vacuum gauge and it is easy to adjust any carb.
If they are clean inside, accelerator pump works, no air leaks; then the only real adjustment is sizing the jets and metering rods which is actually sort of fun. Holley, Edelbrock, etc. all have simple little primer instruction posted on-line to help you.
Do not be afraid of them.
Joe
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I used exhaust wrap to reduce the heat in the cockpit on my Avanti. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/32075/10002/-1
Later I used insulation under the new carpet to lower noise, but the exhaust wrap alone significantly reduced the heat. With the wrap and insulation both, my inside temperatures are quite nice even in our 100 degree temps and near 100% Houston humidity, before A/C was not effective.
Joe
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My gauges do that same fog thing. After a bit of run time they clear. I think it is just Houston humidity and wide temperature swings...take a little time to equalize.
Joe
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Here is a Sanden mounted on an adaptor that fits easily on the SBC. It was an easy install and greatly opens up that left side of engine bay to access valves, plugs, etc. One of the nice features about the Sanden is there are many different configurations of the rear heads to swap by bolting to mate the A/C lines.
Mount is stable, run a 90 mph for many miles (we have 85mph highways in Texas). I have run it many months 1500 miles, cools great especially since I wrapped my exhaust pipes and insulated under carpet. Even on humid 95°+ Houston days I have open the left vent to add a bit of warm air.
Joe
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Warren
I replaced the underdrive 3 grove pulley on the crank with a smaller diameter 3 grove pulley. The original one had a larger 7.8 dia grove on the front that drives the alternator and fan. The new pulley had all three groves of same diameter <7 inch so it gives about 5/8 clearance between pulley and power cylinder arm.
I have adequate clearance to remove the belts. Just changes alternator speed a little. I have long water pump. I ordered from JEGS or SUMMIT, is aluminum, can not find part number
Joe
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You got lucky! The tab that engages the door handle lock was snapped off on mine. Luckily a friend in Canada had one and sold it to me cheap.
Warren, one of the few times I was gentle, usually I break things. That soft tab metal is probably why so many keys do not work, they are bent as pictured from hard handle pulls.
Thanks for pic posting lesson
Joe
Joe
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I drive my Avanti often and wanted to lock the doors while parked. The key would rotate easily fore and aft, I could lock with lever inside, not with key outside. I removed the lock to clean and lubricate and consulted our Guru, Jon Myers in Ohio.
Jon had a couple of good suggestions, but no success. Then I noticed a retainer tab appeared to be bent inward which prevented the handle barrel with key from coupling with the lock. Jon confirmed the retainer should be 90° which would move the lock shaft 3/8 inch outward.
I used a big screwdriver and hammer, be careful the retainer metal is quite soft. I reinstalled in door and works perfect, key will both lock and unlock easily. After doing the passenger side, locking is normal; however, I must pull the handle slightly while turning key to unlock.
Hope this helps someone, several other Houston area Avanti owners had similar issue.
If you use this, you owe me a beer or margarita in St. Louis next year.
Joe
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I think the best way is to have them on another site like photo bucket and link to them here. I've encountered the same problem.
Thanks Warren,
I will try that method, that is what is done on the Corvette forum. I thought I had posted pics here as an attachment in past.
Thanks
Joe
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I wanted to post a short text with a couple of pics about a repair suggestion.
I get a message file too big only 4.01K permitted, smallest I can make 70K
I have posted attached pics before but do not remember how ?
Thanks
Joe
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Devil Dog, does the distributor on your Avanti have a vacuum advance? If so what is the vacuum source for this advance and will it be effected by the supercharger?
Yes, vacuum advance. Basic old GM HEI distributor with vacuum off intake. If I did a supercharger and loose vacuum, the much bigger concern would losing the vacuum boost on power brakes. Easy way is to go to a hydro-boost brake system and clear that big ugly GM actuator out of engine bay.
As to what to do for vacuum advance, go to a digital control ignition, or just leave the vacuum plugged on the HEI. The vacuum advance only advances the spark at cruise to yield a little better gas mileage. My old 61 Corvette with factory high performance Mallory ignition doesn't even have a vacuum advance, most of the factory performance set-ups did not. With those old 2 x 4 WCFB's, it gets 20 mpg on highway at 70 mph, it has for 47 years that I have driven it.
With having 8 small barrels with progressive linkage, it is sort a poor mans EFI. While at highway cruise only two of the small barrels are open, but since small they are open wider than on single larger 4 bbl carb. Wider open for better A/F mixing than a larger carb with two bbls just cracked at cruise.
Even in the day, the drag racers would remove the really neat Chevy FI system and install the 2 x 4 WCFB's because they could get a little more torque and get hp quicker than with the FI. The FI would make more horsepower (on a road course) but not in the 12-14 sec down the strip.
Joe
#05 engine
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted · Edited by Devildog
Bill, first I must scold you...you were sand bagging us ! I looked at your profile and saw you do aircraft mechanical work, and we were trying to gingerly advise you...you know more than we do.
I have a 700R4 in my 75 with the 400 engine. It works great and as Gunny says it shifts hard (1->2) and smokes the tires (is that a problem ????). Two comments to all the above good advice:
1.The 'switch' on the lock-up can be simple or complex; some use a speed controller and many use a simple vacuum actuation. I just put a toggle in the circuit and activate when at cruise where it yields benefit.
2.Must do !!! check the plastic gears speedometer on the transmission shaft before you install. You can change the plastic gears on the tip of the speedo cable; however, if the tranny shaft gear and speedo tip gears ratio are not within range, you can not use the appropriate speedo tip gear to get the speedometer to indicate correctly. My speedometer reads 10+ mph high and I can not select a cable tip gear that is the same range as the tranny shaft gear.
To change the plastic gear in the 700R4 must pull and remove the tail housing. So at 75 mph, I read about 90 mph which makes passenger squirm a bit.
Joe