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Avanti83

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Posts posted by Avanti83

  1. 16 hours ago, wdaly said:

    I've read something similar (about the dealers).  One reason (other than no Stude frames left and not having to develop a whole new platform) they automatically had pre-approved crash testing I would think.

    More importantly - emissions. Not sure about crash as I believe they test with the body mounted. It sure didn't hurt to start with a well engineered frame, though.

  2. On 1/9/2023 at 8:42 PM, GeoffC312 said:

    I have also heard that the factory had a working deal with some insurance [company / companies] to pick up said wrecked GM cars as a source for frames. Since Avanti Motors Corp. was working with "post-production finds" it might be plausible they were able to "extend" a GM model year chassis because wrecks may happen at any time (after build date).

    Wonder if there were a few 0wners that Carfaxed and wondered about first owner of the "Avanti" with the "Avanti Frame"

  3. On 12/24/2022 at 4:34 PM, Jim S said:

    I looked at the thermostat on a cold engine. Heck it was 28 degrees in the garage.  The themostat was closed.  I replaced it anyway with a new 195 degree thermostat.  I ran the engine until the temp gauge moved up to about 150 and that's when the thermostat opens. Then the temp drops again, and the cycle repeats.  Still just luke warm heater air.  This is the exact same thing the previous thermostat did.  Why is a 195 thermostat opening so early?  I'm indeed baffeled.  

    You can check both thermostats for opening temperature by putting them in a pan with a thermometer and heating the water. You'll be able to see when they start to open and at what temperature. If they open close to the 190 deg range then it's a circulation problem and you'll need to look at the suggestions above like flow through the heater including restrictions in a line and how the valve is working. Does it open all the way or restrict flow. You cannot rule out an air bubble in the heater circuit reducing flow so when you check for a restriction you should also look at air in the system.

  4. 2 hours ago, wildfelr said:

    RQB3263/81/305..... MY ALL SS exhaust was installed by Myers Studebaker in Ohio ...I believe they get them from Ontario Canada.... Keep up the good work ....Happy Holidays ! .....BILL

    Probably sourced from Don Simmons at Silvertone  Exhaust. I put a set of his 2 1/4" SS exhaust on my 83 Avanti and they are well made and fit very well. I went with the complete dual exhaust system eliminating the cross over pipe.

    http://www.studebakervendors.com/silverto.htm

    My write up - https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/43720-avanti-stainless-silvertone-exhaust-installation-length-and-picture-warning

  5. 4 hours ago, wildfelr said:

    RQB3263/81/305 .... YES YOUR AND MY 81 BOTH ARE 2.72 .....for a cruiser that is perfect .... I installed a 700r4 overdrive trans many yrs ago and my 305 (cammed and depolluted)  rarely sees 2000 RPM  .... perfect... now can you tell me what is the rear end?   DANA 44 OR DANA 60... IM NOT SURE AND WANT TO INSTALL rear disc brake kit ..in the spring time for  sure ...HAPPY CRUISING ... BILL

    Bill

    I see you asked whether your rear axle is a Dana 44 or a 60. If it's the original it's a 44 as the 60 is generally a bit larger overall and not used originally in the Avanti AFAIK.

    Here's some reference. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/129-1007-dana-44-dana-60-axle-anatomy/

  6. 1 hour ago, Jim S said:

    The rubber hose between the filler tube and the tank is rotted on my 87 convertilbe.  This model year the filler is on the top of the trunk and not the fender.  Can I use a cut piece of radiator hose to replace? Or do I need a special hose impervious to gasoline?  I  don't think I could find an original replacement hose.  Thanks.

    I would never use radiator hose for fuel service. If the line is straight there are many sizes of alcohol resistant hose available by the foot at most any FLAPS or even Ebay. That's what I did on my 74 Avanti.

  7. 5 hours ago, Leo B said:

    Thank you. Now I understand that the smaller one is the breather and the bigger one is for attachment. I found an article today where the larger one has been vented and the smaller one is closed. This prevents dirt and water from entering the axle and stern. Specially for 4X4 vehicles.

    https://slickrock4x4.com/dana-44-vent-axle/
    I think also (like writer of article), that small and open breather hole is not an good idea. It can easily become clogged with dirt. No wonder the idea was changed later.

    Generally in the older applications the small hole was covered by a spring clip that kept out dirt and held the brake line off the axle. adding the venting hose later would help with eliminate water intrusion.

  8. It would be nice to see a few more shots of the underside, particularly with the body on frame, but it looks like they did exactly as you described. They apparently boxed in the rocker panels and other areas under the body and then mounted it to the frame. Exactly where the mounting points are located is not all that obvious. 

    They could have used wood or even foam in the areas like the rocker panels to fill the void and provide rigidity.

    It must work as the cornering shots in the video look like the car handle very well. 

    The early corvettes didn't use hog troughs so they probably just used more box sections than the Avanti's.

    https://www.rkmotors.com/blog/Corvette-Bones-Growing

    Good luck on your project and keep us in the loop.

  9. To get the tank out you need to remove the 1/4" NPT angle hose adapter from the bottom of the tank. If it is blocking the fuel flow and not something above you can dump the current contents of the tank directly out of the opening.

    I would personally assume that the gas would drain when I removed the fitting and be prepared for the contents to flow out. If they don't come out you can screw a 1/4" pipe plug into the hole and remove the tank.

    It sounds like the tank needs to come out but be prepared as you do it. There are a pair of baffles welded to the front and rear walls of the tank and if you could get the fuel sender out you might get a good look inside before you pull the tank. I just don't recall how difficult it could be to pull the sender.

  10. If the frame can be repaired locally then I'd probably go that route. I'm not sure about all new panels but my guess would be they are all from original molds. Dan Booth from Nostalgic Motors in Wixom, Michigan has most of the remaining NOS parts. Personally, my choice of parts would be based on availability and then cost rather than the source of them. Nothing wrong with used parts if they in good shape and available.

  11. As above, the frames will interchange. I notice you haven't shown any damage behind the windshield and if the front door to front fender gaps are any indication (They are about as good as an Avanti gets) then the repairs would limited to the front panels. The hood even looks salvageable.

    Remember, these cars are brittle and what looks like a lot of damage may not be as bad as you think. The need for a new frame says there was more damage lower down but the panels you need are available and probably the best way to go as you'll need to ship them over.

    I'm curious about the need for a new engine as the damage your car has generally leaves the engine and trans in decent shape. 

    You might look at this as an opportunity to get the new frame and suspension all renewed and then set a great looking body back on it.

  12. They should all be the same style but the differences are amp output, drive pulley style and how they are "clocked" to the mount. 

    The two options I would start with are 80 Camaro and the 80 Caprice. The Camaro is the best start as they have a low hood line like the Avanti.

    Just take the old one with you and the hunt shouldn't be difficult.

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