Kennie B.
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Posts posted by Kennie B.
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When the system was leaking, did you bother to find the leak? The product you used is only a stop gap solution. Also, the R12 substitute you used is propane...think about that for a minute.
I am in the midst of getting my system back in operation after the engine swap. I had replaced all the hoses, has the condenser and evaporator checked for leaks and replaced the seal on the pump. System was perfect except for the seal. My solution was to take a spare pump to a rebuilder and this week is the unenviable job of swapping the pumps. And yes, I will be using R12. More efficient than R134A without the hazard of propane.
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The drip rails are polished-clear anodized aluminum.
There a couple of different mounting methods on the license plate. Some people use the rubber pad as the bolts to mount the plate, leaving the rubber pad to cover the top most area of the plate. I have one of the brackets the replaces the rubber pad and can hold the plate either slightly above or below centered on the bumper.
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The brackets are two separate pieces. The bottom part is the one with the tensioner/idler pulley. The upper part is also the alternator mount.
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The compressor is held to its mount by 8 bolts. You can see 4 of the bolts looking down from the right side but there are 4 more underneath. Taking out the bracket is tricky and reinstalling worse. Use the brackets as a means to hold the pump in place while you get the bolts started.
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Not hard, just expensive. Brad Bez or Mike Baker could build you just what you want, just bring lots of money.
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Ron, I don't know who owns it. By the time I got to where it was parked, the driver was gone.
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15 hours ago, avantifred said:
Billy has literally hit the nail on the head. I've seen so much of this topic in this forum. I did what Billy did some 8 years ago now and his statements are on the money ! You're on safe , modern wheels. Only a spying eye could detect the slightly wider 215 x 15 radial tires. The spare.....Billy is SOOOO right !! Do you think we can finally put this topic to bed??
Not necessarily.
The subject can be searched for but the way the forum can sometimes ramble on and change course of discussion, the search becomes overwhelming.
To quote Elwood P. Dowd from the movie "Harvey", "It ever so nice to be intelligent but much more intelligent to be nice.". If we hope to promote the affection we have for these cars and hopefully infect a new generation, we need to always look for every opportunity to promote and welcome new members.
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The lower hose isn't any better on an R1 with A/C. How is it that people cn get the hose clamps in some of those positions and so damned tight?! Still, beats doing power steering hoses or rodding out the block.
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12 hours ago, Stacey said:
Looks like you get a great turn out at your gatherings.
Actually, I have nothing to do with either the club or organizing the meet, in fact it seems pretty organic. People just show up, buy coffee from the Starbuck that's there and hang out. No agenda, people just come and go and visit.
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Studebaker International, page 271;
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Well, that's odd.
I submitted all those pictures with no problems yet I try now and the site limits me to .08mb
I can't even get one pic to post, any suggestions?
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3, 16:1 ratio
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On 12/11/2017 at 2:27 PM, mfg said:
That would be a nightmare!!....False is CORRECT!
I can confirm, that wheel will wip violentlty! When I first got my car running in '15, I was trying to catch up with all the leaks and power sterring was number 3. I tackled that one simultaneously with all the cooling hoses and radiator recore. Rebuilt the pump etc. Fortunately I had put the pressure relief valve in backwards so initially, no pressure. Then I figured that out. Got back in the car and started it and initially the wheel was totally still...and then I started to try to bleed the system. OMG!!! Had I been reaching through the wheel while starting the car from outside, I might be still signing my checks left handed!
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Unless you were a personal friend, his first name was "Mister" and it always preceeded his surname! Just like in the military only the "Mister" is replaced with your rank.
I'll bet there were a very few in a very tight knit circle that got to call him anything else. It was a different era with different social practices. To bad we have let that slip.
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A beautiful design, I keep thinking I owe the designer the respect of using proper, old school, string back gloves when I drive mine. Now I know who it was, thanks.
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7 hours ago, FoLola said:
The Avanti is in pretty good shape but needs some love. I suspect a fuel issue as it has "run out of gas" after only a few miles. Maybe the fuel pump/supercharger relationship is not correct?
Have looking into vapour lock?
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Too bad the film clip doesn't have audio, still it is quite the glimpse back to the era, thanks.
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According to the factory manual, 3) 25-30.
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Frank, you clearly are not a fan of subtlety!
As for rearward vision, it's highly overrated. Just go fast enough so that what's behind you doesn't matter.
Looking forward to pictures of the Avanti. Is it ready to rock and roll or is it a project?
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Frank, welcome aboard and congratulations on your new baby.
Since you are in Oregon, have you thought about attending the International Meet in Tacoma? It's coming end of Aug 2018.
Cheers,
Ken
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Those numbers don't quite add up.
My car currently has the 3.73:1 ratio in the original Dana 44 axle.
At 3,000 RPM, the speedometer indicated 68 mph with the original Powershift transmission.
I just finished the engine swap that included a T10 transmission. The speedometer drive on the new transmission is set for a 3.31:1 axle which is what comes next. With that, 3,000 RPM indicates 82 mph.
For the record, the factory manual shows the axle ratios as; 3.07, 3.31, 3.73, 4.09 and with a four speed trans 4.55. That last choice requires a different differential. There are all kinds of ratios available for the Dana 44 so do not dispare. Jon Myers and Dave Thibeualt have gear sets as do Summit and Jegs.
Ken
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On another aspect, the clutch.
The pressure plate that came with my engine/transmission combo needed serious surfacing and I had found many issues with other components so decided to go with a diaphragm spring rather than a Borg & Beck. While it works beautifully, there is some work required to get clearance to the bell housing...and that is with the early GT that has the GM bolt pattern. The later one used on the Avanti is out of the question. If you want a diaphragm typt pressure plate, go with a fabricated bell housing.
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If you go hydraulic on the throw out, find the best one. My business neighbor builds hot rods. A few years back, he and a client decided to go to a hydraulic throw out bearing. Unfortunately the seal failed a few hundred miles from home and when the flywheel, pressure plate and friction plate get even a hint of oil, show's over. If you really want to go hydraulic, use a slave cylinder working on the regular linkage. Lose a seal and at least you can still limp home. I thought about it but decided to control the potential for mission creep by using stock. So far, I like it. Not as good as my son's WRX but not bad at all.
Possible Cures For R12 A/C Problems
in Avanti Information
Posted
Ron, R12 isn't toxic but has been accused of damaging the ozone layer.
https://www.brighthubengineering.com/hvac/63281-refrigerant-r12-properties-advantages-and-disadvantages/
Frankly, the accusation has never been fully proved. The position was 20 or years ago that the ozone layer was going to take many decades to possibly recover. After only 2, it has made a huge recovery. I'd say there is more happening than the intellectual elite can actually understand.
Ken