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BobS

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Posts posted by BobS

  1. Bruiser

    Nice Avanti, it should make a great driver.

    When it is up on the hoist, look very carefully at the Rubber front suspension bushings where the A-arms are connected to the frame. Also look carefully at the rear spring and control arm rubber bushings for the same reason. My 83 has similar mileage to your's and they were toast. If you need them, unless you have a local source, Studebaker International in South Bend has a reasonably priced rebuild kit that has all the components to rebuild the front suspension.

    Also getting grease into all the fittings can be a chore. If the previous owner was diligent, then it might not be a problem. If you can't grease a zerk remove it and see if it will pass grease. A lot of time is spent trying to get grease to what folks assume is a difficult fitting when the zerk is just faulty.

    Happy motoring

    Bob

  2. Steve, I can't address your questions 1 & 2, but as far as the Dana 44 rear end, My 355 is said to be pushing 400HP buy the builder and the 44 has done well so far. If you have the correct axle (Width + 44) I'd keep it and just add the posi.

    If your 44 is of Avanti II vintage it is probably a 30 spline unit. I had mine rebuilt with an Auburn Posi and Richmond 4:10 gears. The total cost of the posi carrier, new gears, bearing kit and labor was $750 to have a solid unit. I'd go that way as the easiest route.

    You could try searching the SDC forum as there have been several discussions on using Ford 8 and 9 inch units. If you could find the correct width and a newer unit, it would probably be cheaper than adding the rebuild and disk brakes to a 44.

    To me, most Avanti's look like the tire is too close to the fender. My guess is that is due to the fact that the early Avanti's had narrow wheels. When later model wider wheels were added the back set was just not enough to put the wheels in there proper arrangement.

    My 83 has 8" rims with 245/60 tires and they fit correctly to my eye. The rear wheels have about 4 3/4 of back set front are 3 1/2. If you need an exact number I can probably find it if I look hard enough.

    P1010489.jpg?t=1293904581

    Bob

  3. I am looking for some Mustang wheels for my 74 Avanti II. They are 16"x7",  bolt pattern is 5 x 4 1/2 , the offset is 39 and the Hub bore is 2 3/4". The bolt pattern is OK, but I am not sure of the offset and I am not near the car to see if our wheels are hub or lug-centric? Would like to find out if these wheels will fit?

    Paul

    On either site either here or the SDC site contact Tom (sbca96). He has put several sets of Mustang wheels on his Avanti and probably know more on the subject than anyone else on the site.

    Bob

  4. I think WayneC hit it correctly. The easiest Dissy to drop into your engine is an MSD HEI big cap distributor. It just needs a 12v source that is on in Start and Run positions, has 20 amps or so of power and should be a direct drop in for you Dissy as it has vacuum advance and the coil in the cap. The 12 v source connects to a terminal on the cap and the tach source is right next to the 12 v source terminal. No points nor condensor just pure electronics with an adjustable vacuum advance.

    I'll agree with the if it ain't broke don't fix it comment but if you want to upgrade, this is the one. $128 from Summit Racing http://www.summitrac...parts/MSD-8362/

    Here's how it sat in my 83, firewall clearance is not an issue. The only problem would be air cleaner clearance if you had one larger than 14" Which would be very uncommon.

    I said sat because the engine now has A Holley Avenger HP EFI system on it with the small cap computer controlled HEI dissy. I guess I'm just never satisfied with the status quo.

    P1010167.jpg?t=1290790642

    Bob

  5. Just a thought but you said that it would start after 10 min of cool down and that you carry jumper cables to start it. 10 min is not a lot of cool down as hot as it gets around the starter so let me suggest that you load test the battery to check it's condition.

    I agree with Ernie and Gunslinger about the heat soak issue and my 83 has a high torque mini starter but let's not miss an obvious problem like a borderline battery. If it is heat soak a simple heat shield could be fabbed or wrap the exhaust pipe with insulating wrap.

    Bob

  6. Yup, me too. My 74 came with a 400 and a 4-bbl Rochester. Never had any overheating problems – in fact, it's the only "Studebaker" I've ever owned that didn't overheat.

    IIRC the overheating issues with the 400 were due to the siamized cylinders and were solved by adding steam vents to the block and heads. The overheating problems usually occur after a rebuild when the incorrect head gaskets are used in the rebuild. A lot of 400's have been raced and held up under a lot more stressfull use than it would see in an Avanti.

    My opinion (worth every cent I am charging) now that I own an Avanti II with a 400 HP 355 SBC is the lack of cooling available in stock form. My engine has aluminum heads, aluminum water pump with a high performance flex fan, and an aluminum radiator the size of the original Avanti unit. In cool weather it take a long time to heat up (no heat riser) and in local temperatures over 85 degrees it will run all day or idle for long periods of time without exceeding 190 deg F. That's the thermostat temp. I don't think the 400 would be enough different in those circumstances.

    However, If I were buying a rebuilt, I'd probably do a 350ish just because there are so many to choose from but I wouldn't be afraid to rebuild a 400 if I owned it and it was in good shape. I'd let cost be my criteria in that case.

    I would not be afraid to drive mine in 100 deg days, just don't have 'em in Michigan.

    Bob

  7. Thanks for alot of good informaiton and pics about the 71. I think i'll go with crate engine and transmisison. Since 1995 I've had 7 studebaker engines overhauled, the last one (packard 352) costing triple a crate engine. I still have 5 of those cars and am familiar with Studebaker vendors, but know little or nothing about Avanti dealers, just joined Avanti owners. If you think of any more please feel free to email to the forum or directly at renda1007@yahoo.com. Ken, Deltaville, Va

    Ken

    From your description, I'm not sure what your final goal is nor the amount of money you want to spend.

    My data (remember Folks like Gunslinger and others on this forum are heads above me in knowledge about these cars), says that the 76 should be the last year of the 400 Cu in SBC with a GM three speed auto and probably a 3:54 rear end.

    If that's the case and the tranny and rear end are in decent shape then a simple crate swap is the least expensive option. If your experience on tuning SBC's is limited then let me suggest a dyno tuned rebuilt SBC ready to run. 350 derivatives would be the best choice and engine blocks from 1998 and down are a bolt in although be careful which year you choose as the fuel pump drive access on the block was eliminated as GM went to fuel injection.

    If you have a 400 you may want to see the cost of rebuilding it as you get more displacement and less valve shrouding but the rebuilder needs to be familiar with 400 SBC's as they require the correct head gaskets etc. to eliminate cooling issues but are the torque monsters of the SBC family.

    If a more exotic build is desired as in building a more optimum street car then here are a couple of suggestions from my experience building my 83.

    An 350ish (355, 383 etc) SBC can be bought dyno tuned ready to run with aluminum heads, water pump, radiator and the battery in the trunk which will take several hundred pounds off the front end which helps a lot. Price range approx $3500-4000 for 400HP.

    That engine coupled with a 700R4 if you have a 3:54 rear end will give you great acceleration with an nice highway friendly overdrive. Price $1500 I don't want to spark the 700R4 vs 200R4 debate which is what I have but I'm also running a 4:10 posi rear end. If you rear end is an economy under 3:00 then you want to consider an upgrade $950 rebuilt with posi and new gears.

    Posi rear end, If you don't have one, you would be looking at $800 to upgrade, $950 with new gears for ratio change with posi.

    The latter options would yield a much better handling and running street car but are not inexpensive.

    Just wanted to take a minute or two to add some pricing options to the post.

    IMGP0588.jpg?t=1289665007

    Bob

  8. Synthetic or not by definition doesn't mean as much to me as the ability to adsorb water. The major advantage of Silicon fluid is it is hydrophobic ( won't adsorb water) whereas normal Dot 3 and 4 are hydrophilic (adsorbs water) and that leads to the corrosion and rust in a brake system.

    The question should be: Do the Dot 3 and 4 fluids labeled as synthetic adsorb less water than the non-synthetic fluids? If so, then they would a great choice to replace the standard types. Otherwise, take Bruce's advice and just drain and replace what you have with standard Dot 3 or 4. I'd only go to Dot 5 if I was replacing the brake system.

    I've used Dot 5 in my 54K, AH 3000 and 39 Ford street rod and like it very much. In all cases, the system was totally replaced. My 83 Avanti is mostly Synthetic Dot 3, only because that was on sale when I removed the rear axle and flushed the front and rear. It stops great,as before, but it would get Dot 5 if the system was completely replaced.

    I won't go into the temperature handling ability because I don't think many of we Avanti drivers are going to exceed the temperature ability of Dot 3.

    Bob

  9. I am considering installing cold air intake on my '63 R1.  It has an Edelbrock carb with the 5 1/8 dia intake.  An R2 intake is to small to us on the Edelbrock to attach ducting.  Has anyone made this type of convertion?  Comments are welcome   :rolleyes:

    Spectre Products makes a series of low profile systems, Jegs and summit racing handles them. 5 1/8 is standard these days.

    Also  Camaros, Firebirds and Corvettes used a dual snorkel low profile air cleaner that also can be equipt with flex tubes. 

    A couple of thoughts to get you started.

    Bob

  10. Jeff

    Hard to tell from the picture, might be easier if the cover was removed, but it looks a lot like Camaro, etc from the era. The spring loaded lever pivot mounts to the big hole and levers up on the "U" shape catch. I'd start there as they probably sourced about everything from the GM, the source of your cars frame and drive train.

    Bob

  11. One thing to take into account if you plan to buy an 80's model whether it's Stude or GM framed, is the state you will register it in and pollution requirements there-in. If your state requires emissions testing then you will probably need to add a computer motor to get any decent horse power with emissions compliance. Those 80's motor are pretty anemic. 

    Where I live it's not a problem so I just added a big horse power SBC to my 83 with the tranny and rearend to handle it.

    Bob

  12. I am trying to fina a fuel cap for my '83.It has the locking fuel door so the cap can't be very tall.I don't have the original but i remember it being short.

                                                                                                                                                             thanks

    Gerald

    When I purchased my 83 with the locking door, it had the taller cap. I went to Walmart and found a Stant that worked fine. I don't have the # but it was a GM cap. If you have the incorrect cap, take it to your FLAPS and tell 'em you want the smallest handle they have.

    Bob

  13. Mike

    You have a Dana cruise unit in your car. The adapter is missing from the end. It's a simple thing. Go to your yellow pages and find a dealer that handles/installs Rostra cruise controls. They bought out Dana and should have all of that on hand. 

    I just replaced mine with a Rostra unit and it works great. I'll bet there's more wrong with your's than the attachment but that would be cheap to test.

    Bob

  14. Mike

    My 83 is far from stock but it has the 63-65 vette 2 1/2" Ram Horn manifolds and an HEI distributor. That setup from GM generally used an under manifold set of plug wires that ran from the distributor, behind the heads and down along the block/frame and up to the plugs. That avoids the heat issues of laying on the manifolds.

    Mine has a set of MSD Street-fire 8MM wires. I think they are #5564. A couple were a little long but not bad. They are available from all the usual suspects for about $35.

    I'd like to be sure of the # but I discarded the box. 5564 are under-manifold SBC wires and look correct with all 90 Deg connectors.

    Hope this helps.

    Bob

  15. Posted by CASSIUS

    Concerning my english i don't know if i deserve any compliment but it come from:

    Well it's decades better than my French.

    A couple more thoughts.

    I use Studebaker International for most of my Stude and Avanti parts because they are close and shipping is only a day or two. I'd send for a catalog. 

    A good place to get Avanti parts is Nostalgic Motors in Wixom Michigan. The problem is there website has been inactive for a long time so you would need to use the phone.

    Lastly, If you need exhaust parts I'd use Silvertone exhaust from Canada. Don Simmons bends to original patterns and he seems to be the only supplier that gets them correct consistently. They are somewhat more expensive as they are stainless steel but well worth the cost. I did mine a couple of months ago and they fit like OEM.

    Bob

  16. Welcome to Avanti ownership and to AOAI also.

    Two things I would suggest:

    1- Go To http://www.studebakervendors.com/ remember that Studebaker built your car and many of the vendors carry both Stude and Avanti parts

    2- Go To http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/sdcforum.asp and join the forum. A ton of knowledge by asking questions or searching for previous posts. It says down 9/3 and 9/4 but it's up and running. Just introduce yourself on the forum and ask the same question. You will be surprised by the feedback you will get. Also, your English is impressive.

    Bob

  17. Does the ball crank move because it has wear in the shaft or because the tie rods have wear. In either case the answer is repair whatever is worn because you should not have any movement.

    As an aside, I had play in one kingpin and one tie rod end of my 83. After pricing parts separately, I ordered a complete rebuild kit from SI with rebuilt spindles and ball crank. $850 not including deposit.

    Bob

  18. Ernie

    I've owned and driven GM midsize since the middle 60's because I like the looks and reliability. Your's fit into that category of a great looking mid-size and I like the mods.

    Posted by ErnieR

    [Now if you should ever get tired of that Avanti of yours...], all I can say is when they pry it out my cold, stiff fingers  ;). This II has started to enter my automobile soul and reminds of all that was great about the automotive 60's. Everytime I point it toward the open road, the rush comes back. But I digress!! :D

    Bob

  19. Ernie

    No dis-respect to GM midsize but most car shows here have at least a couple of El Caminos whereas you never see an Avanti.

    As you stated 99% of the folks have no Idea what an original one is, although more than you think recognize it as a Studebaker product. So one that shows up that looks good from 10 feet with an almost big block rumble and a nice lope at idle attracts a lot of attention.

    And the best thing is you don't need to light up the rear tires when you leave. Just a nice slow roll at idle followed by a mild acceleration to let the exhaust rumble brings a ton of thumbs up.

    <GGGG>

    Bob

  20. Kennie

    There is probably no correct answer but your thought process is much the same as I went through last fall. I sold a couple of my old cars to buy an Avanti. I chose the avanti II (Altman) for several reasons. After looking at several options I chose an 83 in good shape with all the options but a weak motor and transmission. My initial dream was to build a muscle motor (SBC) with a 5-speed. The manual is easy with this combo as a camaro/firebird setup should bolt in with a hydraulic clutch setup and possible cross member modifications. You can then bolt in any level of power you desire with a crate motor and add the air easily as most later II's came with air. If not any after market air system will bolt in.

    When I came to grips with all my desires, I realized my 5-speed dream would be better served with a late GM overdrive automatic. Not trying to talk you out of anything but just where I landed.

    My 83 now has an in excess of 400hp SBC with a stage II 200R4 tranny and a 4:10 posi rearend. It will go to beat H@ll, be comfortable as sin and look like most other Avanti's on the road.

    Best yet, I've got less than $13k in it including original car purchase ( although I got a great deal on the SBC), it will go anywhere and best of all I didn't modify an original Avanti and I got exactly what I wanted. My total investment will probably be $15-16K when it's finished.

    Here a walk around

    Food for thought.

    Bob

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