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Posts posted by studequest
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I am shooting from the hip as I’m on the road with no reference shop manual but…when you put the ram back on did you put the hoses back on the ram in the correct location not reversed? PUT BACK SAME WAY
Also, I seem to remember a deflector in the reservoir that keeps the return fluid under control and not blowing against the lid. Maybe I’m just dreaming that? Also, could you have a cracked fitting or lose fitting hose to pump? CHECKED ALL OF THAT ..COULD NOT FIND ANY'YES THERE IS WAHT APPEARS TO BE A DEFLECTOR
SEAL ON THE LID WAS GLUDED DOWN AND IS IN PLACE
CLEARLY LEAKS FROM THE BOTTOM
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I should have said worn seal -
I t was dripping just standing
and it gushes with engine running and turning side to side
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GURUS!
On my 63 R2 4 speed.. we replaced the oil pan gasket and rear main seal. I noticed some drippage from the power steering ram.
Russ Ware had a completely rebuilt ram I purchased.
We put it in the car and it leaked from the end of the Ram.
Bob Halgren resealed it and it now appears to be fine at the end.
HOWEVER, we had a large leak from the reservoir
We removed it from the car and filled it with fluid and checked for any cracks on the bottom. None notice
We removed the large 1 Inch bolt which holds the threaded stud and oval plate at the bottom of the reservoir and looked at the seals.
One appeared to be torn.,
We replaced the seals with the flat rubber seals.
We noticed the 2 holes on the base plate that the reservoir sits on are threaded – one to receive the bolt for the stud and nothing for the other hole. Appears to 5/8 x 18 fine thread. The workshop manual does not show another bolt.
I seem to remember that the other hole had a filter on my other 1963 R1 Avanti
How do we combat this leakage.?? We clearly are not getting the pressure to compress the seals to stop the leakage.
It pours out at a pretty good rate.
Bob Halgren gave me some thick round o rings.. could those be used. They are thick and round and the correct dimension
Should we fit a bolt into the open hole and drill it to pass the fluid.
Should we eliminate the seals and fashion a paper gasket?
Should we use heavy round O rings?
I am at a loss.
I show a picture with a screw driver into the open threaded channel `
Thanks Keith
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I should have said worn seal - only one. As I mentioned the ram started to leak and that was repaired and then we noticed continued leak which we traced to the reservoir.. Down onto the inner fender and finally the floor. This R2 has air conditioning. Th battery is in the trunk and the power steering was moved over to where the long eee battery used to be, It has a custom bracket. We double checked all of the reservoir for leaks
IT was dripping just standing and it gushes with engine running and turning side to side
You can see it flowing out from above
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GURUS!
On my 63 R2 4 speed.. we replaced the oil pan gasket and rear main seal. I noticed some drippage from the power steering ram.
Russ Ware had a completely rebuilt ram I purchased.
We put it in the car and it leaked from the end of the Ram.
Bob Halgren resealed it and it now appears to be fine at the end.
HOWEVER, we had a large leak from the reservoir
We removed it from the car and filled it with fluid and checked for any cracks on the bottom. None notice
We removed the large 1 Inch bolt which holds the threaded stud and oval plate at the bottom of the reservoir and looked at the seals.
One appeared to be torn.,
We replaced the seals with the flat rubber seals.
We noticed the 2 holes on the base plate that the reservoir sits on are threaded – one to receive the bolt for the stud and nothing for the other hole. Appears to 5/8 x 18 fine thread. The workshop manual does not show another bolt.
I seem to remember that the other hole had a filter on my other 1963 R1 Avanti
How do we combat this leakage.?? We clearly are not getting the pressure to compress the seals to stop the leakage.
It pours out at a pretty good rate.
Bob Halgren gave me some thick round o rings.. could those be used. They are thick and round and the correct dimension
Should we fit a bolt into the open hole and drill it to pass the fluid.
Should we eliminate the seals and fashion a paper gasket?
Should we use heavy round O rings?
I am at a loss.
I show a picture with a screw driver into the open threaded channel `
Thanks Keith
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WHO IS MAKING DASH PAD REPLACEMENTS? IS IT JSUT DAN BOOTH OR DOES STUDEBAKER INTERNATIONAL HAVE THEM
1. COST?
2. WHO HAS INSTALLED ONE?- DIFFICULTY? TIPS, TRICKS, PROBLEMS?
3. DOES THE DASH PAD COME WITH THE INSTRUMENT PANEL ?
4. WAS THERE AN INSTALLATION GUIDE IN THE AOAI MAGAZINE
thanks keith!
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Thanks 1inxs.. I got that --- Yes I finally got it all apart and it was an N90 bulb -- dual filament
Its all back together.. Just need to check the leads and wiring (not sure how it was wired since they modified the lights in the back)
All the lights are turn and brake on the rear of the car and the backup lights are LED on either side of the license plate).. I am waiting for a mercury switch.
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Thanks guys
Yes Gunslinger I have an additional LED light that is switched and also has a mercury switch on it. I was wondering my original did not work and hence the question
This is an N90 dual contact bulb. I ordered a new aftermarket Mercury switch... better than the originals and I will hook that up
My car is already modified (R2 with Air conditioning and all electric fuel pump system) with a battery in the trunk.... so it does not matter
Why live with 60 year old technology..
Thanks for that photo I see it is one basic unit with the tines of the light housing and the base are separate from plastic cover. I pulled it apart to get to the socket.. my bad!!
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I took apart my trunk light and it seems the 2 wires going into the bulb housing do not pull out so you can replace the bulb
Of course I broke the bulb and the base seems fused into that socket. Do you cut the wires and get a new replacement socket?
My original mercury switch is gone so I ordered an after market which I will hook up.. Any thoughts here?
tHANKS KEITH
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WHO KNOWS THE NUMBERS AND DIMENSIONS OF
1) PRIMARY JETS
2) SECONDARY JETS
3) METERING RODS
CFM AND AT WHAT INCHES OF MERCURY
I HAVE BEEN GIVEN DIFFERENT SETS OF NUMBERS AND I AM LOOKING TO COMPARE WHAT YOU ALL MAY KNOW\
THANKS
KEITH
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IS ANYBODY MAKING THE CARPET AND FENDER COVERS
ARE THERE A GROUP OF FOLKS INTERESTED IN HAVING SOME MADE
THANKS
KEITH WAHL
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IS ANYBODY MAKING THE CARPET AND FENDER COVERS
ARE THERE A GROUP OF FOLKS INTERESTED IN HAVING SOME MADE
THANKS
KEITH WAHL
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DOES ANYONE HAVE A 1963 WIPER MOTOR PARK SWITCH OR WIPER MOTOR WITH THE SWITCH?
ALSO DOES ANYONE HAVE A WIRING DIAGRAM FOR THE FOOT OPERATED WIPER MOTOR SWITCH THAT ALSO HAS A PUMP FOR THE WINDSHIELD WASHER BAG
APPRECIATE.. KEITH WAHL 858 5182190
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DOES ANYONE HAVE A 1963 WIPER MOTOR PARK SWITCH OR WIPER MOTOR WITH THE SWITCH?
ALSO DOES ANYONE HAVE A WIRING DIAGRAM FOR THE FOOT OPERATED WIPER MOTOR SWITCH THAT ALSO HAS A PUMP FOR THE WINDSHIELD WASHER BAG
APPRECIATE.. KEITH WAHL 858 5182190
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NICE MIRROR BASE,
MIRROR WITH CONVEX APPLIQUE .. SMAL DENT ON MIRROR EDGE
$70 PLUS $22 SHIPPING (NEW REPRO MIRRORS ARE $125)
KEITH WAHL
858 5182190
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2 questions
1. WHO HAS REBUILT A. ORIGINAL FUEL PUMP WITH THE STUDEBAKER INTERNATIONAL KIT?
TIPS TRICKS PROBLEMS?
2. WHO HAS USED THE REPLACEMENT PUMP MADE BY CARTER WHICH HAS 2 VALVES AND DELIVERS MORE FUEL..IS A REGULATOR REQUIRED?
TIPS TRICKS PROBLEMS
THANKS!
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tHE CONSOLE COMES WITH THE SWITCHES THE AND THE NAME PLATE (NEW) $125 ** ( SWITCHES ALONE ARE $55 AND THE NAME PLATE IS $35)
THE PULL STRAPS $ 30 FOR THE PAIR
WHERE DO YOU LIVE? I CAN SHIP PROBABLY IN A SMALL OR MEDIUM PRIORITY BOX
PLEASE EMAIL YOUR REPLY TO KWAHL@SAN.RR.COM
tHANKS
KEITH
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John.. what email address did you send them to and what was your email so I can search for it
Keirh
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WHAT AM I POSTING?
ANYWAY... WE PUT IN 1/4 20 SET SCREWS
THEY WILL NEVER COME OFF
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thanks !
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Can you post them as jpeg and email them to me kwahl@san.rr.com
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yes JOhn please send them to me
thanks Keith
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John when you say screw on Tribars.. you are not talking about threaded? The original design is just pressed in with an O ring.correct
The repro wheels with Tri Bars are press in.
This would be the second time a tribar came off on this car. (I just bought it and I dont know if it is the same wheel where the TriBar flew off)
Even the producer of Real Rodders wheels suggested using Aquarium Glue or a thicker O ring.
I understand the reason for not using a set screw in that the position of the TriBar could block the lug nut for extracting the wheel.. but on this particular wheel the system failed
I also learned that according to the producer of the wheel he was "unaware" of this occurrence... but it must have happened to others
It could be the center of the hub is not machined so well for this particular wheel?
A set screw would never be noticeable and there would be no chance for failure
POWER STEERING RESERVOIR LEAK
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted
Haha..exactly..one thing after another
We got the ram and the tank set and then the high pressure hose failed..
So we are getting a new hose