Jump to content

plwindish

AOAI Forum Members
  • Posts

    657
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by plwindish

  1. seen a product at auto zone for repairing/patching the defroster wires... would have written it down but I was kinda zoned out that day myself let me know if you can't find it

    Thanks, I'll check out my local Autozone and ask about it. When I was there a couple of weeks ago, I was looking to see what they had in gauges, not looking for the defroster cable repair.

  2. PL

    Once you get the engine reinstalled, could you post a picture or two of the headers. A lot of us continue to be curious about what fits and what becomes available. My search for headers that fit my 83 resulted in my using the 2.5" OEM Ram Horns from early 60's vettes. The only thing close that I found were the Tru Rams from Speedway that would fit and possibly one set of Sanderson cast headers. The problem has always been the steering gear requires the #7 exhaust to come up and then join the dump. Thanks

    Bob

    My car came with the ram's horn type exhaust manifolds on the motor. The problem I had with them in the short time I've had the car is 3 burned spark plug wires, two on the wires that came on the car when I bought it and the shop found a burned wire from the new set when tearing it down. I will get some pictures when it is back together and hopefully downsize them so they will fit the forum's format.

  3. I stopped by the shop today to drop off the new Auto Meter gauges and check on the engine progress. The block mains were being line bored when I was there. Heads were cleaned up ready to put valves in. Roller cam is coming in Tuesday,with carb rebuilding and possible new intake manifold to install,the owner said the motor should be back together on Wednesday. Even with the motor put back together, there is still the radiator to get cleaned, leak tested along with removal of the gas tank to be cleaned, coated, and re-installed with new sending unit and gas lines to the motor, gauges installed, block hugger headers installed and connected with the exhaust pipes and everything buttoned back up, I'm guessing another week, before taking to the trans shop for the 4 speed automatic overdrive.

  4. You are right on Gunslinger, both in some of Loewy's earlier designs ending up in some form in the Avanti and also in that the '73 Javelin was one of many cars that copied many design cues of the "failed" Avanti. The copying of the Avanti stylings have been going on for many years. I even see some of the "Avanti-type" style in my '03 Honda Accord. Key elements of the Avanti designs have lived on long after Studebaker's demise. I definitely was around, but never understood who classed it or why the Avanti was considered a GT type car and not one of the first "Muscle cars". Shouldn't the '62 GT Hawk get a little credit for being an early GT car? Did Studebaker class the Hawk and Avanti as GT cars and a year after their demise the term "Muscle Car" evolved? I recall there being a ton of Mustang GT's, the '64 GTO, which I just heard this past weekend on Muscle Cars being called the first "Muscle Car" I guess there was a lot of the "Obama Koolaid" flowing back in the mid sixty's to revise the beginnings of the muscle car era to exclude Studebaker from any credit.

  5. I stopped by the shop yesterday afternoon to find the '76 motorless. One of the mechanics had the block on the stand taking the pistons out, checking the distance from the top of the block. Crank bearings looked good, the date on the backside of the bearings indicated the motor was built in '75. The whole bottom end looked good, but the heads looked a little oily on the underside in the combustion chambers. I did find the motor number that was on the right front of the block. The motor number stamped on the block matches the build sheet for the car. The other number on the block is the casting number on the left rear of the block. In previous forums, some have gotten the 2 numbers gotten confused when trying to find the motor number. Wonder who stamped the motor number on the block, Avanti Motors or GM? The block has 2 bolt mains, so its probably a good idea that I only want around 325 HP out of the motor and not a bunch more. Everything will be measured, cleaned and the parts list accumulated by tomorrow, so everything is moving along. I did get the new sending unit for the gas tank and filler connecter for the tank yesterday, so the tank will be removed, cleaned, coated and re-installed. I'm still waiting on the Auto Meter gauges to come in. I went with the Z series and will use red lighting. The Z series is one of the few that does have a clock with it. Hopefully in a week or two, that work will be done and then its on to the install of the 200 R4. Hopefully everything will get done and I'll get plenty of road testing in before June.

  6. I have the 4 barrel quadrajet and have already talked about getting an Edelbrock aluminum manifold, they were checking on heights of manifolds, thinking they could get a lower rise to replace the original cast iron intake. On getting it to breathe better, it already has a hose connected to the air cleaner intake picking up air from the grille area. The old long ac compressor is located on top over the left bank, making it really hard to add a double snorkel air cleaner from an HO 305 that ran a hose down by the left side of the radiator and into the grille area to get a double amount of air. I like the idea of getting cold air into the carb instead of the abundance of hot air under the hood.

  7. I've got the Auto Meter Z-Series gauges. A clock and vacuum/boost gauge were available. I installed them when the dash was out of the car...the easy way! Wiring was simple...and the tach needs no sending unit. All the gauges come with both a red and green colored gel cap to put over the lights that snap in, so you have the choice of colors for illumination. The Auto Meter gauges came with their own mounts, so the mounts for the original gauges won't be necessary. I sold all my old gauges and mounting parts on Ebay...it went a long way to recovering the cost of the new gauges.

    Since you've already bought a new fuel tank sending unit, make sure you get a 240/33 ohm fuel gauge. That's pretty much a generic spec but there are different gauges.

    As far as your rear defroster goes, I can't help you. My '70 has the old style blower defogger in the rear. Maybe an auto glass shop can be of help.

    I stopped by the shop to check on progress yesterday on the way home. Hood was off, radiator out hoses disconnected, battery out, etc. What was alarming was the bottom pulley on the motor was riding right on top of the center steering fitting. The pulley had worn grooves on the steering fitting. A belt would have been impossible to replace without taking the pulley off or loosening the motor mounts and lifting the engine. Anyone run into that issue??? The shop did not know if that was caused by the mounts compressing over time or some other reason. As you all know, there's no room to go with taller mounts as the top of the air cleaner has the paint worn off to where it is shiny. Any ideas?

    Gunslinger, good call on the Autometer Z series gauges. I believe I'll get them, added bonus there is a clock with that series. Are the speedo and tach the 3 38" size, while the other smaller gauges are the 2 1/16" ? Oil pressure gauge range to 100, should be fine right? Water temp to 240 or 250? So far it hasn't gone over 190 for temp. I will follow your suggestion to sell the gauges, first by checking with other members of Chicagoland AOAI or Ebay if no local buyers.

  8. I replaced the gauges in my car as well. I went with Auto Meter gauges. I replaced the ammeter with a voltmeter as I felt a voltmeter is more useful. You'll find in many makes and model lines of gauges, you won't find many matching clocks or possibly even vacuum/boost gauges. You could always eliminate the clock and install a voltmeter and also keep the ammeter, but that's up to you to decide.

    Best of luck on your car. It sounds like a real winner when it's completed.

    Thanks Gunslinger. I was looking at the Auto Meter gauges. The ES line did look good to me. The illumination put a red glow on the gauge harkening back to the '64 I had. As you said, clocks are hard to come by. I did not see any on Auto Meter's site. I will call them as they are only about 40 miles from me in IL. If I leave the clock in, it may not be too far off from the others, an really, its not high visibility where it is located on the left. Its still working, so maybe I should let it die a natural death. Were there any issues with hooking up the new gauges? I just ordered a fuel sending unit from Stude International along with the upper hose connecting the gas tank to the fill tube for the removal and restoration of the gas tank. I'm hoping there won't be any issues with getting a reliable reading from a new gas gauge.

    As far as tickets go, its been several years without one for me, but with my daily commute on I-80 between I-57 and I-55, its customary to go 80 just to keep up with the traffic flow. On the rearend, I'm probably going to keep the 3:31 for now and see how everything performs. I haven't checked yet to see if it is a posi-traction or not. I wasn't on the build sheet so it probably is not.

    If your vast warehouse of knowledge, have you come across an issue with the rear window defroster that I mentioned in the original post? It will probably be a mute point, as I doubt if I'll be driving it in weather that I would need to use the rear defroster, but that wire is "butt-ugly" hanging down like that and it is probably too heavy for adhesives to provide a long term answer.

  9. Being a "kid" of 62, I don't feel the need for speed that I once did. Its been a while since I have collected an speeding tickets and I would just as soon keep it that way. At the engine rebuilders place in the stall next to the Avanti is a 68 Chevelle with a Crate 582 and nitrous. Now that is a serious horsepower maker. The shop is also going to pull my gas tank to get cleaned out, leak tested and coated and add new lines to the motor. They also can replace the instrument gauges, so I need to pick some new ones out. By the time the work is done and car is running, the trans guy should have the 200 R4 built and ready to go in. When all that gets done, I'll really have the "need for cruisin speed"!

  10. Dropped off the '76 last night at the shop to have the 400 pulled, taken apart, cleaned and put back together with more "ponies". When they asked how much power I wanted, I said 300 - 325, to which they replied "That's it?" The shop is very complete for doing everything on engines, complete with their own "dyno" room to show the end results. After the motor is done, its off to the tranny shop to swap in a 200 R4 for the TH400. After that, hopefully the car will be ready to hit the road for trips to Springfield MO and Gettysburg.

    Has anyone had any success in reattaching the wire on the bottom of the rear window for the electric defroster grid? About 3 inches has separated from the glass. The previous owner had the cable reattached two or three times. When I stopped at the Glass shop I had used in the past for other cars, the guy all but crossed himself before looking at it and quickly saying they couldn't do anything about it. He stated anywhere the conductive paint had separated would most likely mean the defroster won't work. He said I'd have to try to get a conductive type paint to fill in any gaps and then try to get a conductive type adhesive to reattach the wire.

  11. Yes, I bought this car from ebay in early 07. It came from Van Nuys and was described as an R2 but the supercharger had been taken off. The spare tire wheel is white. As with most things bought and sold on ebay it was not as described. Bought it from California Dream Cars. It was my California nightmare. The fawn interior panels were dyed white, the dashboard was cracked, the aftermarket steering wheel was junk, the horn didn't work, there was purple tint on the windows, the valence panels were shreaded, the emergency brake did not work (it hung up on the cheap exhaust system, the front suspension was falling off, the carburetor was from a 1963 Corvette 300 HP automatic car. I did have someone look at the car before purchase but he really wasn't a car guy. My mistake. He basically gave it an OK. However, the car ran. Not well, but ran. It was at best a 10 footer. Bumpers were painted black to hide the damage.

    That is all behind me. I took my lumps on the deal and now will go forward. The car is being disassembled, motor freshened up, front end rebuilt, new exhaust to be ordered (what do you think of the stainless system offered on ebay?), probably a Phantom interior package in black, base coat/clear coat in black, dashboard repaired in black, fawn dash insert to be replaced. It currently has a Nardi steering wheel which will probably stay. Fawn steering column also painted black. That should keep me busy for a few weeks.

    Thanks for the information. I'm sure I'll be back asking the same stupid questions other rookies have.

    Regarding the stainless steel exhaust system, I would recommend to go through Nostalgic Motors in MI. Their web site is not up an running from be redesigned yet, but give them a call,(You gotta love the #, 1-800-Avanti 1. I called and talked with them yesterday about a shift conversion kit for a 700 R tranny swap while talking, found out regarding exhaust systems, they also have all the pipes done in the "600 family" of stainless. They have all the exhaust system stuff including glass packs and the quiet tone mufflers and resonators.

  12. give me your # and we can call you ....probably would be able to help you out even with the tranny....(just converted my dana 44 rear end to a posi unit)

    *****I think it's just aurora only for the 2nd biggest city in Il.****

    708 508-4240 or plwindish@hotmail.com Are you a member of Chicago-land Avanti Owners? I went to my first meeting 3/2 in Elmhurst.

  13. A coupe of things to add to the already accurate info from everyone.

    The '76 had a crossover "Y" pipe off the motor next a Catalytic converter and then split into two mufflers and tailpipes. This is called a cat back system. Sounds like someone converted it to a 74 and earlier style exhaust. I would keep that unless you have emission laws to comply with.

    Who knows what the motor is today unless you have ALL THE RECORDS. My 76 was ALL original and had the emission de-tuned SBC 400. I installed a 1970 Corvette grind cam for the 350/350 hp motor and flat to pistons to replaced the low compression dished ones.

    My 76 had Corvette style ignition shielding complete from the distributor cover, tower style wire separators, and flat covers that hugged the side of the engine block and housed the wires before they met the plugs. If you google "Corvette Ignition Shielding" you will find many sources of repro sets.

    I would also do the seafoam BEFORE the carb work.

    My '76 is RQB 2392 with the SBC 400 & quadrajet. Shielding is only a box over the distributor and arms coming down on both sides to the back of the exhaust manifolds. Nothing is along side the manifolds, wires are tucked between inside of manifolds and heads. It doesn't look like there are any brackets or connection where side covers would go down along the manifolds. Over the years, who knows. The gentleman I got the car from had it from 10/84 to 1/11 and kept many many receipts so I'm pretty certain the engine is original and miles 60 k are the first time around. I did look up some of the shielding and saw the price ranges. I guess that's one reason why the Vettes bring the money the do in auctions, or its an example of everyone living on the Vette food chain.

    My exhaust probably was changed to a '74 dual system w/o cat. The car's previous owner also included all his correspondence with the Illinois Emissions Testing to where they finally exempted the car because he had not even put 20000 miles on the car since '84. How's the 400 run with the cam and pistons you had put in? Did you do any head work also? Do you still have the TH 400 in it? What rear end did you have in it?

    Thanks for the information.

  14. I think you should have the exhaust work done before having the carburetor tuned...it should be adjusted in the condition it will be running. There will be a difference in back pressure between now and with new mufflers. That may or may not make for a significant difference in carb adjustments. It may make little or no difference...hard to say, but I would still have new mufflers on before the carb gets adjusted.

    There is a measurable difference between an exhaust system with a crossover and without....on a dyno. While measurable, it may not be of any practical difference. Every car and engine is different on that. Having a crossover will balance out the power impulses of each cylinder head and make for somewhat better idle and generally makes for a slight horsepower improvement, but generally at higher rpm's, which may or may not be where you drive your car at. I've seen tests that show where an "X" crossover performs better in this regard than an "H" crossover, but every type of car might not have clearance for one over the other, or either.

    The shifter quadrant will fit exactly in place of the original...no problem. Unless you look closely, you can't tell them apart. The only difference is how the indicator lens attaches...with your original it attached with two screws...with the replacement made for the 4-spd automatic, the lens attaches with one screw and the other end is a tongue and groove type of arrangement.

    Something else on the 700R4 swap...some have said they required trans tunnels mods for the swap, but since your car has a TH400 or 350, that shouldn't be a problem. I had no problem in my '70. What we did find out for my car was there was an issue with the backup light and neutral safety switches, so the shop doing the work fabricated a new switch setup. They said the issue was lack of clearance between the original switches and the exhaust pipe. I had 2 1/2" pipes installed rather than the original design 2" pipe, so that may have caused the trouble..not the transmission itself. Just something else for you to be aware of, but if you have a TH400 already, it may not be of concern to you.

    Spark plug wires shouldn't be bundled together the way you say they are. They can suffer inductive crossfire. They should be kept separate and crossed over each other once. The wires shouldn't be grounded or the spark will go to where you don't want it...like your fingers as you found out! I experienced that once on my '69 Corvette...the coil wire had a pinhole and the spark was escaping and grounding out on the lid of the distributor shield, keeping the car from starting. When checking the car to find the problem, it shocked me to where I wanted to go into a dark room to see if my nuts had turned into night lights!

    I don't know if Avanti II's came with spark plug wire shielding like the original Stude Avanti's did. They may have come with distributor covers only. You can buy wire separators (called wire looms) from a speed shop or suppliers like Summit Racing or Jegs. They attach to the valve cover bolts and keep the wires separated plus add some bling to the engine. You can run the wires over the top of the valve covers or the side or from underneath. A lot depends on what design exhaust manifolds the car has. If you have the "ram's horn" design manifolds, you won't be able to run the wires across the valve covers.

    The car's not finished at radiator shop yet(radiator repair,new overflow hose & coolant bottle, flush & AC check), so I will hopefully be getting the mufflers put on before messing with the quadra-jet. I talked with the fine folks at Nostalgic & George D from Chicago today and got the information on what is needed from them to go along with the 700 R. I also talked with my tranny guy about the swap. I'm now thinking I got the wrong license plates from the sec of state's office. I need to change them from AVNTI 11 to MONEY PIT. In IL there's probably many versions on MONEY PIT on collector cars though. I could change the VIN to a 9 digit SSN and call it "dependent" also.

    The ignition shielding only covers the distributor and goes down each side and stops at the back of the exhaust manifold on each side. According to another reply on this topic, his had come all the way across the manifolds also. I don't know if different versions were put out in the same year or what was the case, but mine doesn't come that far. I remember a 390 hp '66 Vette coupe my brother had, just had shielding over the distributor and possibly down to the back of the exhaust manifolds similar to to what I have on the '76 Avanti, then it looked like a braided wire covering over the spark plug wires. When I've got the car back, I'll have to see where I can put separators in to keep them apart and not hitting anything. My list of things to do seems to be growing. It looks like the road trips to Springfield MO and Gettysburg are only 3-4 months,hundreds of miles and many $$ down the road.

  15. The Quadrajet, though much maligned, is one of the best street carburetors ever designed...and also one of the most misunderstood. A Quadrajet will give you great performance and will wring every bit of mileage out of your fuel if it's adjusted right by someone who knows and understands them. That's a tough thing these days as carburetors are so old school and most modern techs have little experience with carbs of any make much less a Q-jet. Find a rebuilder that knows and understands them. It could have any of a multitude of issues after all these years. It sounds at least like your choke needs attention. Once properly rebuilt you can amazed by the difference in performance.

    At the same time as rebuilding the carb, I would clean out the intake passages and combustion chambers with a can of Sea Foam. It's available at Pep Boys, Wal Mart, etc. While the engine is running, pull the large vacuum hose off the power brake booster and slowly pour it into the hose...the vacuum will draw it in. That does a great job of cleaning out the intake and combustion chambers and will also smoke up your neighborhood. After that you should replace the spark plugs as all kinds of debris will be on them. Then a rebuilt carb should make a big difference.

    Since you have true dual exhaust, you can have a muffler shop fabricate a set of front pipes with a crossover...you may not experience a "seat of the pants" difference in performance, but it might run slightly smoother...maybe. Engines of that era were down on power output anyway so any changes may not be that noticeable.

    Transmission...I had a 700R4 installed in my '70, but my car came with the Borg Warner automatic, not a Hydramatic. It did require a new driveshaft, so I had an aluminum unit installed to save weight and reduce rotating mass. I'm not sure, but whether you need a new driveshaft may depend on whether you have a TH400 or TH350 behind your 400 engine. I think...not sure, but I think a 700R4 will use the same driveshaft as a TH400 but not the TH350. Hopefully someone else will know for sure. Also...if you do the swap, you should also replace the shifter...the shift lever will not line up accurately with the indicator otherwise...plus you also need the indicator and housing for it as the curved PRND321 for a 700R4 will not fit the housing for your original PRND21. Not a big deal to change but you need to know ahead of time to have the parts available when doing the swap or the car will be sitting for longer once you find out the hard way (ask me how I know!). Nostalgic Motors has all those shifter parts you need.

    Get the Q-jet rebuilt and you'll see an improvement in drivability and performance even if you don't see a huge improvement in fuel economy. Make the swap to a 700R4 on top of that and you'll probably see fuel economy around 20 mpg or better depending on your driving style. That's about what I get and I have a heavy foot.

    Thanks for the information Gunslinger. The radiator shop owner I dropped the car at today is old school and remembers the Avanti's on the road as daily drivers back when he was a delivery kid for the radiator shop he started working at. He told me he has a good "carb" guy up the road from him. That'll probably be the next stop on the "mechanical tour" for the '76, possibly before my mufflers get in to be installed. I also am going to be talking with a tranny shop to start inquiring about a 700 R. Nostalgic Motors will also get a call about the shifter indicator parts. Does the new plate fit exactly in the place of the current plate, or are mods required?

    I'll see what the carb rebuild does before I go the Sea Foam route and have to change out my new plugs. I don't think I'll do anything with the H pipe in the exhaust pipes as the present pipes are in really good shape. I had heard there was an advantage to having both sides joined for pressure equalization, but that's not confirmed.

    One question I had about the new plug wires going through the shielding on the 400 was where they come out at the bottom of the shielding, the mechanic zip tied the 4 wires together, then ran under the exhaust manifolds to the cylinders. I didn't take off the shielding on top to see if the 4 wires were all held together as they passed down from the top. I believe the shielding on the original Avanti's separated each wire in its own channel between the distributor and where they came out at the bottom. Wires should be insulated, but is there any grounding between each other when they are all touching? I haven't done it on this car, but I have come in contact with a spark plug wire with the motor running before and got a jolt. Bad wire or just me making a better ground than the plug? Thanks again for all the information.

  16. hey I'm in aurora (now offically 2nd biggest city in IL) I have a great mechanic that could help you get your car going if you need ...motors are one of his specialty's he can get you going with some 'punch' if you need it.... let me know if you want his number

    Is that #2 status for Naper-Aurora area or just Aurora? The area is getting some big towns with Naperville, Plainfield, and Aurora all still continuing to grow. Thanks, I'd appreciate a number and address of the shop as I have a son living in Naperville available for taxi service when dropping off a vehicle up there. On your other reply, I've seen several exhaust set ups with an H pipe connecting the pipes between the exhaust manifolds and before the mufflers. I think I heard somewhere it helps equalize pressures. I'm not entirely sure, but my '64 R 1 might have had an H pipe when I had it back in the 60's.

    plwindish

  17. I've been trying to get my '76 (acquired Jan '11) road worthy for trips to Springfield MO and Gettysburg this summer. After an 80 mile trip ending with 2 burned plug wires and a blown muffler, I've been making trips to the mechanic (new plug wires & tune up), muffler shop(still waiting on 2 mufflers) radiator shop today(some soldering starting to let go and getting freon checked). The 400 has been chugging and cold blooded until warmed up. Should I now be looking at rebuilding the Rochester 4 bbl also? Would that help the chugging and rough idle also? Also gas mileage is around 13, is that par for the 400 equipped Avantis? I'm wanting to keep the car original, has anybody just swapped out the 3 speed turbo hydra-matic for a 700 R behind the 400 and gotten better mileage and better driveability? Is this an easy swap, or does the drive shaft need to be altered? According to the tach, at 70, tach is right around 3000, give or take a 100. Engine noise and blown muffler is making me think about ear plugs when driving. One thing I noticed about exhaust system when under the car was no H pipe connecting both sides in front of the mufflers. I'd appreciate any advice that would make the beast more economical and travel friendly. Thanks.

    plwindish

  18. Congratulations oncoming full circle and returning to your "Stude" roots Ron. I'm glad you stayed true to your Studebaker roots instead of going the Dodge Charger route. It sounds like the carburetion or fuel injection will be your first project with the '63. Replacing all the window seals in my '76 is going to be my first project. I do want to do some driving this summer without getting wet when it rains. Welcome and good luck getting the new baby to CO.

    plwindish

  19. Last month I took my new acquisition '76 Avanti II through a Delta Sonic car wash for a Super Kiss wash and got the super shower as a "bonus". Water was really coming in through the driver's window on top where the glass comes in contact with the back of the vent window seal and I guess the front window channel seal. The guy I bought the car from delivered it to me with a neatly folded white towel behind the driver's seat on the floor. Jeez, I thought he had forgotten it. Talking with him later and relaying my car and body wash experience to him, he said that's what the towel was for, to hold up against the top of the window when going through the car wash. Today, it was a balmy 45 - 50 in sunny Tinley Park, IL so I backed the car out of the garage in the driveway and did a warm water wash. Hand washing got leaks from the driver's window, and both rear side windows. I saw all the window seals are available in the Studebaker International catalog. One question is are they a pain to remove and install the new seals? If they are a pain to do, who in the Chicago land area does replace the seals is the second question. I want to drive to Springfield MO and Gettysburg this summer without wearing the poncho inside the car when its raining so I'd appreciate some advice.

    I got curious after reading another post about the Avanti going "down under". "Gunslinger" answered the inquiry about what engine was in the car by the number or prefix. My build sheet said the engine # is TI 211C8B. All my information says the car was built with a 400 -Rochester 4 barrel carb. Where can the engine number be found on the motor? Many thanks for any assistance from my "fellow Avanti brothers".

    plwindish

  20. HAHAHAHA Thanks for the laugh. Yes that car was real. I bought that car about 2 years ago from the son of the 2nd owner who was a Studebaker dealer for a long time. I had the car shipped from North Florida to N.J. where I live. First thing was a complete service. After driving the car about 250 miles, I began a full frame on restoration. To be included was complete suspension and brakes and new exhaust system. Rebuilt the transmission and a few electrical issues. Then I drove the car for another 3-500 miles. Ugh, the looks were amazing that I got. Not a problem as I wore a Nixon mask; only kidding. Then the car went into the shop for full repaint, fiberglass repair of the front grill and reverse hood scoop. Also included was all new rubber for all windows,doors,etc. The front and rear bumper was re-chromed as was the bonnet and valve covers. New carpet was custom cut with extra padding and sound proffing. About a few months later; for the next winter, I had the engine rebuilt professionally-blueprint and balanced. Jon Myer is currrently rebuilding the Paxton as I heard some noise that would only develop into a bigger problem. So, all in all, the car is perfect and beautiful. I have a 45lb box of every receipt from the previous owners with every article ever writen, all Studebaker service parts, records, paint formulas and more.

    Love that car. I will include a photo later this week.

    thanks for the inquiry. Mark R5470 1964 Avanti R2

    Will love to see the pix of the 64 R 2 looking like a beautiful bride and not the ugly step sister with braces! As was said in one of the other replies, Its hard to improve on the original. Some have tried different headlights ala a blue one in Wisconsin that has two wide slanted headlights and one I had seen a picture of recently that had 4 headlights up front. They all look cartoon-ish when lined up next to the originals. With all the work you are getting done on the R 2, better change out the 45 lb box for a 4 drawer file cabinet! Good luck with all the work.

    plwindish

×
×
  • Create New...