[carburtor gas leak]

I found the apparent solution. I adjusted the throttle connetor to the plunger to the lowest hole, so that the plunger sits lower. It has a slight cone shape, and this seating seems to seal it better. In any event, no more gas leak.

[carburtor gas leak]

I have a 1963 R2. I changed the fuel filter, and replaced the hoses. I used a silcone lined high pressure tubing meant for feul injection lines. The silicone lining broke up under the pressure of the clamps, and small peices wound up in the carburator and one peice lodged under the feul pump plunger rod and needle (pump discharge check), causing it to spit raw fuel out around the plunger. I thoroughly cleaned out the carburator, float bowls, and flushed all of the lines. Now, it still spits raw fuel, but only if the throttle is "jerked", or if I push the RPMs over 3,000 - and then it is just a fine mist, not droplets like before. Is there a gasket that could be damaged, such as the pump jet housing gasket that could be causing this?? Does anyone have any suggestions? I am very leary about driving it like this. Can the ethanol in the fuel deteriorate the gaskets?

I would appreciate any comments, or suggestions.

Dennis Smith

smithden1@comcast.net

[Avanti overheating]

Ernie,

Thanks for your thoughts. I agree that 220 is not outrageous, but this car never got above 200 before that really prolonged idle - so I was concerned that something might be going on. The fan stops right away when the engine is off. I increased the idle speed as you suggested (it was actually 3-400rpms before I adjusted it this morning) to about 6-700 rpm, and it seems to like that. I am intrigued by your blocking the cross over exhaust. I do have a "silent muffler"option (quiet tonemufflers and resonators), so I assume I have a cross over as shown in the parts catalog, but I never noticed. What is it's purpose, when there apparently isn't one in the standard glass pack system? I presume I'd need to take it to a muffler shop to accomplish this. Also, what is a Pertronix system?

Again, thanks for your comments and suggestions.

Dennis 63 R2 R3821

PS I'd include a picture (it's the same color as yours) if I could figure out how!

[Avanti overheating]

Thanks for your comments. I initially had no problems with over heating in my '63 R2, but on one hot day, while waiting 45 minutes in line for a meet, it began to overheat and run roughly. Changed the distributer condenser, and ran fine - until the next prolonged idling, when it kept stalling as it got hot (220). So 2 problems: 1, the overheating is a new problem (so not a design flaw, but a symptom of something else; 2, I have checked everything you mentioned as best I can myself (I am no mechanic!) - it runs reasonably smoothly, but still over heats at prolonged idle, and cools right down on the road.

Any thoughts? Should I get an electric fan for the radiator? The engine has 10,000 miles on a complete rebuild, the fan seems tight, speeds right up with increased RPMs, belts are good, no leaks, idle speed 5-600 RPM.

Thanks

Dennis Smith

smithden1@comcast.net

[front "rake"]

Thanks, Tom. The bushings were tightened with the wheels suspended, and I did correct that. It made some difference, but not sufficient. I will go to the link you suggested, and check for spacers.

Dennis

smithden1@comcast.net

[front "rake"]

http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/sdc_f...?TOPIC_ID=11570

The above link has a link to a thread that has measurements from my Avanti

and also Karls Avanti. In the above link there are some dimensions from a

source I am not familar with, but you can contact the individual. First I would

make sure that there are no spacers between the spring and the control arm

and the spring and the frame. There are Avanti II spacers that will fit a Stude

Avanti and raise the car. Once you know that there are no spacers, check to

see if you have extra spacers between the body and frame. I am at work at

the moment so I dont have access to my Avanti to count them, but maybe it

will be posted by someone else before I get home later. After you know there

isnt any outside force causing the height issue, then yes the springs must be

changed to lower the car. The only other possibilty is that the suspension was

assembled wrong. When the front end was rebuilt, did they drop the car on

the wheels to settle the suspension before tightening the ruber bushing caps

on the upper and lower control arms?? If the caps are tightened with hanging

suspension, they CAN hold the car up until forced down. This is NOT a good

thing to do, as it CAN destroy the new bushings. All bolts should be torqued

to the proper specs EXCEPT the end caps, and those torqued while sitting on

all four wheels at ride height (or equvilent).

Tom

[front "rake"]

I would take measurements of the front and rear to determine what is incorrect. If the front end is higher than specs because of new, taller springs that could be the issue. Or the leaf springs could be sagging.

First, however, I would make certain that the tires are all the same size/height/aspect ratio.

fmarshall

Thanks. It is definitely the front end that is higher. The tires are all the same size. It could well be that the springs are new - they look new). If so, is there anything that can be done short of replacing the springs?

Dennis

smithden1@comcast.net

[front "rake"]

I just bought a '63 R2. The front end was completely rebuilt. Unfortunately, the car now has no forward rake - it sits just like an Avanti II, not like a '63 Studebaker Avanti. Any suggestions how to restore the rake?

[Avanti II]

The performance of the 350 Avantis depends on the year, the late 60's they used the

Corvette engine, and it had plenty of power. Through the 70s ALL V8s started losing

power across the board. So I would say that a late 60s 350 powered Avanti would be

pretty close to the R2 engine.

Second question. Yes. But avoid the temptation to cut the springs, you WONT like it

after the springs are cut. The best way is to remove the body spacers in between the

body and the frame, to the number that the Studebaker version had. If you get a high

miles Avanti II for cheap, then purchase a 93-97 Camaro/Firebird parts car with a good

engine and trans, and swap that into the Avanti. That will give you the hood clearance.

Supposedly the Chevy engine is taller then the Studebaker one. The LT1 engine has

a very low slung intake, so it would clear the hood with ease. The LT1 is 285 hp, which

is 'modern' HP and good for a 0-60 of under 6 seconds properly geared/traction, AND

a solid 25 mpg on the freeway with a light foot.

Tom

[Avanti II]

Does anyone out there have data/ articles about the performance of Avanti IIs with the 350 chevy engine? Does the 0 - 60 compare at all with the R2 Avantis?

Second question: can the front of the Avanti IIs be lowered to mimick the Studebaker Avantis?

Thanks.

Smithden1@comcast.net

[changing transmission]

Changing a auto car to a manual is not easy, it requires sourcing all the parts needed to

setup a manual car, and for the Avanti, they wont be common or cheap. For a manual

trans, its best to start with a manual car.

Currently no one makes a kit to adapt anything by the GM autos to a Studebaker engine,

you can find tech info to adapt a T-5 trans, but that requires legwork to find a certain

year bellhousing (a truck?). The T-56 trans is what I am currently working with Fairborn

to adapt, but its anyones guess if they will follow through ... or give up. I will have to

make one myself if that happens.

There were SOME manual Avanti IIs. It would be easier to adapt a modern 5 or 6 spd

trans to a GM powered Avanti II, since the mating of the engine to trans is not a problem.

You would still have to source the clutch pedal assy. Or you can just buy THIS Avanti II:

http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/sdc_f...p?TOPIC_ID=3850

Have for sale or trade my late father's 1971 Avanti II. It is equipped with a 4-speed manual transmission from the factory, as well as 350 V8, p/s, p/b, a/c. The car runs and trans shifts in and out of gears. Restoration was started by my father. We have had the car about 13 years. He drove the car regularly for about 6 years until the paint started to go south on it. It has always been either garaged or covered. Recently it has been off the road about 3 1/2 years. The car has been media blasted. Has a nice set of bumpers that are off the car as well as headlight rings. Needs interior work as the front buckets are worn and have tears. I have a couple of sets of buckets- high backs and low backs that are in excellent shape as well as an excellent rear seat. Hog troughs are solid.

Has had a brake conversion kit? installed by Zari Brothers Northeast Avanti in NY. Was installed at 11,432 miles.

From what I remember being told it is 1 of 4 or 6 that rolled off the assembly line in 1971 with a 4-speed. My mother and father were the 2nd owners. Have pictures of the car coming off the assembly line at the Avanti factory.

What it needs:

Interior work

Brake work

paint prep and paint

Asking $6000 OBO. Located in Massapequa, NY 11758

New Pictures 4/9/06:

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/silverbullet...m/ph//my_photos

Email me at Silverbullethawk1959@yahoo.com

PS ... this is NOT MY car .. just a deal I found on the SDC site.

Tom

Thanks to all for your advice. It does not sound like conversion is an easy thing.

Dennis

[changing transmission]

Iam looking for a '63 Avanti in near pristine condition. I have found 2 that seem good, but both have automatic transmission, and I much prefer a manual. How "easy" and costly is it to change from an automatic to a 4-speed manual? Does anyone know if more modern 5 or 6 speed transmissions exist that can be coupled to the studebaker engine?

I find the same problem when I look for an Avanti II - all were made (Ithink) with automatic. Is there a manual transmission available for the small block chevy 350 engine, and does anyone know if that is "easy" to do?

Thanks . Any help will be appreciated!