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grobb284

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Posts posted by grobb284

  1. The actual photo I saw was one for sale on eBay, depicting the body as it arrived at its destination, as it was supported. Possibly the winning bidder was a Studebaker Drivers Club or AOAI member, or someone like Richard Quinn. Perhaps an inquiry on both forums would yield the photo. It was intriguing enough that I bid on it. 

  2. Is it because both reside over the rear axle, and GM bought one of each to crash test?

     

    How about they were not made by the same people, but seperate companies of the same umbrella corporation. They made umbrellas too?

  3. Jack, I agree about the bumpers. The small flats on the front fenders under the turn signals need to be rounded.

    Also think the rear looks better (wider) by eliminating the backup lights in the trunk. Eliminating the shackle boxes helps, as well as the blisters for the side mounting of the bumpers.

  4. In observing #8, it appears to have had blocks welded to the roll cage to make it removable, but also of such size and strength that it was not weak for being a bolt in. The welds appeared to be of great quality, that they were not welded by a novice. I don't know who actually constructed and welded the roll cages, but I take my hat off to them.

  5. The suggestion to use ATF is a good one . Used white Lubriplate. But how do you keep it from wicking into the carpeting? Used the white translucent air line in industrial applications.

    Installed this tubing with shrink tubing on the ends. This was done in the early '80's, still work better than new. Also keeps moisture out of the assembly from trunk leaks.

    Did this on the console cables as well as the hood release.

  6. Several, rather than one.

    The intermediate body mount that rusts out, the hog troughs.

    The rear tubular crossmember body mount that rusts out.

    The frame flexure between the radiator support body mount and the body mount at the firewall, which causes stress cracks at the rear hood opening.

    Another is solid body mount spacers, which cause noise. Resilient isolation such as with urethane reduces squeaks and rattles.

  7. Doesn't the current pass through when the circuit is closed, illuminating the lamp? The voltage passes through when the circuit is open, that's why the lamp is not illuminated and is a standing voltage potential on the the end of the wire?

    By the way, I may have a few of the Studebaker Avanti rear side dome light switches that can be installed by drilling out the spot welds.

  8. I may be thinking about this wrong, but there should be no hot wire to the door switch. There should be a ground wire and a wire that carries that ground to the lamp when the switch connects. The only reason you are reading that wire as hot is because the circuit is open, the switch is not activated, the voltage is passing through the bulb because it is an open circuit.

    Am I thinking about this wrong?

  9. Believe them to be 1 1/16. It has been almost 30 years since a friend ran them through a Gage room to make up matched sets for the Paxton supercharger. As I remember, the bearings themselves were rather inexpensive.

    Seems they were temperature soaked and read to perhaps 5 places.

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