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ROADRACELARK

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Posts posted by ROADRACELARK

  1. John,

    The closest readily available color is Ford Wimbleton White and is available at most all FLAPS in their paint department. Dupli-Color is very good and one can should be sufficient. Hope this helps. :)

    Dan Miller

    Atlanta, GA

  2. It sure is easy to mess up :o ....sorry about re-posting Tom's reply.

    All Tom said is correct. Another area you might check is the PCV system. If it's not working correctly, ie. stopped up hoses, faulty PCV valve, plugged up carb. port, too much pressure can cause mutiple leaks as well as increasing blow-by due to weak or worn piston rings. Hope this may help :)

    Dan Miller

  3. The same basic rules apply to Studebakers as any other brand, I would first

    find out WHY its burning oil. Usually there are two main causes of oil burning

    one is valve seals (can be done on the car) and two is rings (rebuild time).

    You can help to figure out which by paying attention to WHEN you see smoke

    out the tail pipes. If you see smoke whenever you accelerate, and during

    idle, and you have low compression 125 psi or less, then its probably rings.

    If you see smoke when you have left the car sit after driving it, & when you

    fire it back up (say sitting for 30 mins to 2 hours), and notice smoke out the

    tail pipes when you let off on the gas and reapply on the freeway, then it is

    valve seals. These are NOT definate, but are simple rules of thumb. The oil

    leak you notice from the rear seal COULD be coming from above at the oil

    pressure rubber line, or could be from an oil pan that has loosened over the

    years. Sometimes retorqueing the pan bolts according to the shop manual

    will solve (or seriously reduce) an oil leak. Studebakers are going to leak

    pretty much regardless, so if you can fix it without pulling everything apart

    thats a better plan. Also make sure that the oil is not leaking from the FRONT

    seal and running back down the engine to leak off the rear of the pan.

    I wouldnt go rebuilding it until you know whats wrong, is the oil pressure

    good? How does it run other then fouling plugs?

    Tom

    The same basic rules apply to Studebakers as any other brand, I would first

    find out WHY its burning oil. Usually there are two main causes of oil burning

    one is valve seals (can be done on the car) and two is rings (rebuild time).

    You can help to figure out which by paying attention to WHEN you see smoke

    out the tail pipes. If you see smoke whenever you accelerate, and during

    idle, and you have low compression 125 psi or less, then its probably rings.

    If you see smoke when you have left the car sit after driving it, & when you

    fire it back up (say sitting for 30 mins to 2 hours), and notice smoke out the

    tail pipes when you let off on the gas and reapply on the freeway, then it is

    valve seals. These are NOT definate, but are simple rules of thumb. The oil

    leak you notice from the rear seal COULD be coming from above at the oil

    pressure rubber line, or could be from an oil pan that has loosened over the

    years. Sometimes retorqueing the pan bolts according to the shop manual

    will solve (or seriously reduce) an oil leak. Studebakers are going to leak

    pretty much regardless, so if you can fix it without pulling everything apart

    thats a better plan. Also make sure that the oil is not leaking from the FRONT

    seal and running back down the engine to leak off the rear of the pan.

    I wouldnt go rebuilding it until you know whats wrong, is the oil pressure

    good? How does it run other then fouling plugs?

    Tom

  4. I do belong to AMO and Carolina AMC. I haven't participated in them as much as I would like,mainly because my Matadors haven't been roadworthy for a while. I should have them back rolling soon. Richard

    Richard,

    Being a AMO member, you MUST have attended the "National" last year in Atlanta , no? My friend was one of the key people putting that together. I was impressed! lots of nice cars and parts too. Good luck with your new "prize possession" :)

    Dan

  5. Thanks for the kind words folks. And,yes, this is the cheap Avanti that was discussed on the SDC site. I have also joined SDC and will join my local SDC club directly. JDP is straight up. I like the way he does things. RD

    RD,

    Do you belong to any of the AMC clubs? I have a real close friend that has been a member for a long time.

    He has several cars and even road-races one. :)

    Dan Miller

  6. You know .. I dont know Dan, I have never had that apart, the only thing I have done on

    the engine in this car is valve seals and spark plugs. It runs "good" though, I mean as

    well as a stock R1 with 103,000 miles can. :P I wouldnt recommend removing the tstat

    since its really needed, I have read about overheating problems FROM removing the tstat

    and the water moves too quickly through the radiator. :unsure:

    Tom

    You hit the nail with your head, Tom :P There must be some restriction of the coolant flow. I know in NASCAR those guys use a disc with a certain size hole and that determines the rate of flow through the radiator. Imagine "cooking" one of those motors cause of a "stuck" tstat :( Yours probably has a 160 degree tstat. If it works for you, it works for me. :) Keep us posted, Thanks

    Dan

  7. Tom,

    Do you know for sure there's a tstat in your car? :blink: There are people that think the car will run a lot cooler with NO tstat at all, so they remove it. (previous owner?) My temp guage was off by about 15 degrees , even with a new sender and direct ground. I measured it with a laser temp. gun at the point where the sender is in the head...180 degrees, used a inline resistor to bring down the guage reading to its correct number. Mine dosen't run as well at 160 degrees as it does at 180-85. Just FFT (food for thought)

    Dan

  8. Speaking of electric fans......My 63' R1,A/T,A/C, has two 12" B*W fans mounted in front of the A/C condensor.

    I still use the original fan clutch, (very low noise, thermostatic type) that works fine for regular driving (180 on the temp guage). In traffic, or real hot days, w/o fans, temp goes to almost 200 degrees. Turn on the fans, (I have a manual switch to two relays, don't trust the after-market thermostatic switches) it drops to 185. They work great, they're quiet, and they're hidden. :) The only down side is sometimes the OEM 40 amp alternator can't keep up, but after the fans are switched off, the alternator catches up. OBTW, there's PLENTY of room in front of the radiator for "pusher" style fans. :)

    Dan Miller

  9. In someone's efforts to upgrade to a split master cylinder, they may have relocated the stop light switch to the junction block mounted on the side of the frame, directly below the M/C. It will have 2 red wires with push on connectors. Those red wires should come out of the main harness right at the M/C. If they are there, follow them, mabe, to the M/C

    In someone's efforts to upgrade to a split master cylinder, they may have relocated the stop light switch to the junction block mounted on the side of the frame, directly below the M/C. It will have 2 red wires with push on connectors. Those red wires should come out of the main harness right at the M/C. If they are there, follow them, mabe, to the stop light switch.
  10. My car hads the footpump, tubing and nozzle, but I need the bag, cap, valve strainer, bracket...etc.

    I've found a source for NOS pieces..but does anyone have instructions on how to do it and where to plac the bag.

    There was a factory kit: -3336...anyone have a copy of the instructions?

    J, I've seen most of the bag and bracket mounted on the pass.side inner fender panel square shelf next to the firewall. But we all know Studebaker, it could be mounted just about anywhere depending on what day of the week it was. I would wait to here if anyone else replies if they have seen it mounted there

    ROADRACELARK

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