brad
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Posts posted by brad
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I had some originals converted to AM/FM 4 channel stereo. You can add blue tooth and aux USB inputs. Then I used a good small 4 channel amplifier to take the load off the output and used good speakers. Sounded fantastic and looks stock. The speakers can present a problem in mounting to get good sound. I cut the kick panels and "straightened the curve with dense foam insulation before installing 5 1/4 component speakers there. Then reshaped the kick panel trim and upholstery and carpet to look factory. The main thing is to trim out tie vent opening so you don't see the filler foam. I use component speakers up front, because the higher the frequency, the more directional it is. So, I put the tweeters up in the headliner trim by the windshield. For rear speakers, I put 6x9 ovals in the rear parcel shelf. You can hide them if you don't need it to look factory by covering the openings with speaker cloth.
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Unless it's a tilt column, they don't have the lower bushing.
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I made the mistake of putting local parts store exhaust extensions on an Avanti once. Instead of fitting the pipe, it was slotted to be a universal fit, and exhaust fumes leaked out the slots, and since that was not past the body, that was where the fumes came from.
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I don't think you need to go to the expense of doing the spinners. Dave Kinney has a guy that has made them and are excellent quality. Probably still available.
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1/4"
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Welcome back
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No, don't do that Ron, it's part of the dash, and drilling out those rivets won't gain you anything. If your car is new enough to have the "cubby hole" in the top of the dash where the speaker usually was, then it's simple to remove that, and acccess the radio from that opening. Other wise the side panel on the console will have to be removed. Also, the stainless trim removed first. To do that, you have to remove the upright AC center duct outlet plate. (4 Phillips screws). Then you will see the nut holding the trim in place. Once the trim is off, then you can unscrew the console end cap. then the radio is held in with nuts behind its knobs. which pull off. There might be another bolt into the bottom of the radio chassis on the passenger side. There will be a small access hole for that bolt if there is one there. Then reach up and unplug the antennae and power wires, and the radio should wrangle out the back of the dash. You may have to remove the fiberglass heater duct to gain enough room to tilt the radio out. I think you can rotate it and tilt it enough to remove. Cars with AC are almost inpossible to access it easy. But I've done it when I was more limber. Anymore, I remove the whole dash instruments and all.
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I'm pretty sure he's asking for the through bolts from the end plate through the main armature housing into the nose piece.
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It's been stated before....R4 engines were not blue. One was that Paul Johnson owned and got from England. One engine does not make ALL!
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I worked on a 76 that had a vibration, and it turned out to be the tail shaft bushing where the driveshaft yoke slides in and out.
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6 hours ago, John D said:
I'd actually like to know more about why they raised the II's, is the SBC taller or ? Why can't you just set it up to 63/64 dimensions? I'm sure there were sound reasons, I just don't know what they were...
No, there were no technical reasons for the lift, just pure asthetics of the new owners of Avanti motors. One of them didn't like the rake. plain and simple.
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What year is your Avanti? Later cars in the 80s had the type you show that was on your car. They are a bear to curve properly to fit well.
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I just got a set of Hastings rings, and there is an inside bevel on the top ring, and the 2nd ring has a step that faces downwards. If that helps any.
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Not in power steering systems. They need the slippery lube of power steering fluid. Not transmission fluid. But yeah, in the powershift and superchargers it is good.
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B & M Trick-Shift fluid the original type, not the synthetic. It's better than type F. That is what is in your blower now. It's blue. Someone knew what they were doing. It is a type F actually, but better suited for high speeds, and anti foaming, and heat tolerant. Most type F you can buy now days is so off brand that I wouldn't trust it.
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Ron, I have one.
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I hear through the grapevine they are in the process of being reproduced.
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Engine bays, and door jambs did not get multiple layers of red oxide lacquer primer. And when they did, they were not wet sanded smooth. That is why you see the strands of the fiberglass. The outside main body got lots of primer, and was sanded.
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It's the positive cable that's 17" long. the correct ground cable that reaches the oil filler block off plate bolt is a longer cable. Endurance Built products makes BOTH cables.
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Now 22.50 Gates # 28481. Less than 1/2 the price.
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Last time I got some last year they were $15 Gates hoses off of Amazon. I'll look for the part #. It was a Jeep part.
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The rear one is for a clip that holds the starter cable.
Front one is unused
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On 7/20/2022 at 11:28 AM, Dunkin said:
I know you can get them from the vendors and even some parts stores. I was looking at the block off plate, thought that was a strange place to ground it the battery. Again, thank you this one has it running to the bellhousing on the left side.
On 7/21/2022 at 4:00 PM, regnalbob said:The 17 inch ground cable is attached to the water manifold bolt below the bolt that holds the bracket for the reservoir tank.
Not according to the authenticity manual.
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The correct cables are available from Studebaker vendors. Endurance Built Products had them reproduced in the correct lengths. The attachment point is the oil filler block off plate at the front of the lifter valley.
Orange and turquoise vinyl or upholstery wanted
in Avanti Parts
Posted
I can get the orange, even the heat pleated door panel material. It's an exact match. My supplier also says she can get the turquoise, but I haven't had any samples from her yet. The carpet is available in the red and black, turquoise and black, and red and black. My supplier can get it in the exact weave as original, not the reproduced "tuxedo" crap that is an incorrect loop pile. It is the correct frieze short shag.