BillyBob
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Posts posted by BillyBob
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Very nice article, very nice car. Maybe we could swap? Thanks for replying/sending - honest! Getting a little more educated on "hoggs"- appears as if Classic Enterprises' current design is 5-piece, with 2 of the pieces attached to other parts of the kit, making it a 3-piece kit (per side). Bill
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I have several questions regarding hog trough replacement; they are,
1) excluding the benefit of stainless "lasting a lifetime", what are the pros & cons of one-piece vs three-piece troughs?
2) are three-piece troughs welded, screwed, or riveted together once in-place?
3) how "exposed" are the rivets that secure the replacement troughs to the rocker panels?
4) I read an early description of someone replacing hog troughs and he talked about needing 40 hours to replace the troughs - how realistic is this time?
Happy Holiday weekend, Bill!
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Hog Troughs in my '77 are non-existent. Yes, I know the "debate" and am undecided where, exactly, I am in the argument. That said, I lean toward replacement and am looking for a referral to a MI, IN, or OH shop that is experienced in their replacement. My limited search in Metro Detroit has been unsuccessful in finding an interested shop. What say you?
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Hey!, nice photo! What's the secret for posting photos?
....haven't been able to 'figure out'.
Tnx!
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Believe the bulbs may be wrong size - what is correct size? Same for all gauges?
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Car's been in the shop a couple of weeks. Was able to get past front desk today to find center bolt is nothing more than Grade 5 bolt (5/16 inch?) with 'rounded' head. 2 problems - 1) 'rounded' head is not high enough to engage in anti-rattle strip, and 2) 'rounded' head is not sufficient OD to fill anti-rattle opening (concern for 'moving around' (?) ). Mechanic's first talk with 'spring shop' was of little help in resolving - tho they haven't given up. Yet. Was this an issue for you? Got detail too late to call Flex-A-Form. It's on my agenda for tomorrow.
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...still looking for Flex-A-Form springs ordered and paid-in-full on August 24. I called this past Tuesday (Sept. 11) - "order's been lost, thanks for calling - will be shipped Sept. 13". Let's hope . . .
...still looking for Flex-A-Form springs ordered and paid-in-full on August 22. I called this past Tuesday (Sept. 11) - "order's been lost, thanks for calling - will be shipped Sept. 13". Let's hope . . .
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Mine's an AMC column - yes, probably AMC stalk unit.
...I'm impressed with your commitment and dedication to keeping the cruise and making it functional!
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OK & thanks!
So, there's possibility the servo can be rebuilt...still missing stalk-mounted controls, as a minimum. Assuming I can find/get that, next question is, 'what electrical is there/is missing?'
While there may be value in cruise control pieces and parts, will save that project for another day.
Again, thanks for suggestion of places to look! Yes, I know, the Hunt is much of the fun in old cars.
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Under almost any & all start-up conditions, I notice my gauges fogging. Clears after a while (15-30 minutes of driving if I recall correctly). Normal? Is there a known fix?
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Speedo once again functional - it was the 'cruise control' servo. Speedo cables were replaced with a one-piece unit, by-passing servo.
FYI: 'cruise' was non-functional as it was missing, as a minimum, the turn signal stalk-mounted controls. I understand the servo currently has no rebuild capability. Can anyone confirm?
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Since buying my '77 a few months ago, the speedo's always been erratic (bounces between 40 & 60 mph at constant speed of about 50 for example). Several weeks ago I began hearing a speed-sensitive ticking - almost as if a wheel spoke was rubbing something on each turn (which it wasn't), or possibly as if it were a stone stuck in a tire (also not). A few days ago, the speedo began working intermittently. So, today I disconnected the cable at (auto) trans and, magically, the noise stopped.
The question is; what's the most-likely cause, and what's a likely source for repair parts?
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Hope this works...
http://www.myspace.com/billscars
Make certain to look at Avanti and not the 'other' car on link!
Not clear on what I needed to do when initially posting to enable uploading file. How/where can I find detail?
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Flex-A-Form ordered yesterday (HD rate) at $425 delivered - one week for delivery. Springs are remaining bits before front spring spacer removal (have new upper/lower anti-squeek pads). Will install new front & rear shocks, replace shackle and U-bolts at same time. Was concerned about dropping front end and how it would affect engine fan-to-fan shroud clearance (now about 5/8 inch)- now convinced clearance should not change.
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Studebaker listed a heavy duty spring for R1 and R2 and a different Heavy duty spring for the R3 and R4. I would assume their listing is for one of those.
You do have options. You can take your car (or just the springs) to a spring shop and have your leaf springs rebuilt...probably about half the cost of new. You can buy a new set from Detroit, or you can do as I ended up doing...have a set of composite springs fabricated by Flex-a-Form. I did that and they are excellent. It took a little over a week to receive them...they have Avanti specs on file. They weigh about eight pounds each...nearly a combined hundred pounds of weight off the car. They came with new bushings as well.
They cost only a few dollars different than new steel units from Detroit...maybe even a few dollars less than theirs, plus shipping was minimal considering their low weight. I sold the original springs on Ebay to offset some of the cost of the new ones.
If you need new shackles, you should be able to get them from Studebaker International or Nostalgia Motors. You should be able to get new U-bolts at NAPA or a similar supplier.
There's no reason the correct driveline angle won't be maintained with correct spec leaf springs.
Great and thanks! Will call Flex-a-Form tomorrow.
Studebaker Intl has shackle kits.
Someone really bought your old springs?
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My rear leaf springs look like an S-curve - half smile, half frown. Detroit Spring has specs for '64 Studebaker Avanti HD springs and can fabricate. Question: will these "fit"?
Follow-on question: what is source for shackle kit?
...can I 'assume' if spacers between axle & spring are replaced, correct driveline angle will be maintained?
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Here's photo after tire installation - unfortunately no before picture. Next shot will be after spscer removal. Am considering replacing rear springs (see separate post) - watch this spot for more on that.
Uh oh! Added file - don't see it. What do I need to do to add attachment?
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Keep in mind that once you lower the front, you might want to cut the fender
out to get the correct top of tire to fender opening distance. The Avanti II
had a fiberglass filler glued in. I cut this out on my dads '69 with a template
made from a Studebaker Avanti.
Keep us posted .. and get those pictures up!
Tom
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On my way toward Restoring the Rake on my '77 (RQB 2618)...
installed P215x60R15 Cooper Cobra on front
installed P245x60R15 Cooper Cobra on rear
...next step is to remove spacer on bottom of front coil springs.
Would have removed spacer at same time but ran into sourcing issue on upper/lower insulators. Now resolved with parts on the way.
In retrospect, I would have taken a picture before tire change. There is a noticeable difference with tire change only. I like the "look". I do have after-tire-change pictures; will re-take pix after spacer removal.
Plan to change shocks when spacers are removed.
Final step in process is to check alignment. Suspect this may 'skunk out' a few more R&R parts - there's a noticeable clunk/gring on a hard left turn.
Stay tuned !
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Yes, "fixed" today! Thanks for asking! OK, so I don't proclaim to be an expert and now have a Garage Trophy, a carb gasket. Yes, it was installed front-to-back, or - as some would say, bassackwards. I am now much more intimate with the details of my L48 motor at a much earlier and quicker pace than I'd ever imagined. Thanks to all, Bill
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Would like vacuum reading - can't keep car running long enough to check. Same with timing check - car won't idle on its own. Yes, car has anti-diesel/run-on solenoid mounted on carb. It's electrically operated and is functional ('bench test').
Vacuum hose re-do and reman carb installation were done to resolve poor idle when cold and occasional bog/flat-spot when pressing accelerator. I do (just about) anything to have those 'problems' back!
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July 9 status:
1) found carb to distributor vac advance & carb to fuel vapor canister vac hoses reversed -> corrected - no appreciable difference
2) reinstalled OE carb -> no appreciable difference
3) while replacing OE vac hoses with 'new' service hose, a port on ported vac switch (OE#3731385, white) in the intake manifold broke - this was replaced with a service part
4) what the hay, while replacing one ported vac switch, I elected to also replace ported vac switch on t'stat housing (OE#3031386, green) with a service part
--> FYI: 3) & 4) were done prior to installation of reman carb
5) as received, car had 'plug' in vac hose to heat riser vac motor; in re-doing vac hoses and prior to initial start-up with reman carb, this 'plug' was removed
6) replacement vac hose to heat riser motor was plugged to simulate 'as received' condition -> no difference
Here's what I've got today; with coaxing, car will start on about 4th crank (yes, choke is functional and appears to be functioning properly). Will stay running only if I pump gas - much like as it performed with reman carb - so, I think I'm about back to where I was after installation of reman carb, only now with new vac hoses, (2) new ported vacuum switches, and 'as received' carb. Motor will, on occasion, over-rev temporarily and then revs drop off quickly and motor stalls. During accelerator pumping process, there will be occasional back-firing thru the carb (yes, fire extinguisher is near-by!).
I suppose this is my question - could timing possibly have slipped during all this activity? Is the L48 'prone' to have timing slip? Distributor appears tightly secured.
I'm thinking of this as my next step - remove #1 plug, get #1 cylinder as close to TDC as I can and check rotor position. FYI: firing order has been determined correct.
Seem like a logical next step?
Anyone got a better one?
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You guys are awesome! Thanks - let's hope one of these links/suggestions finds the answer. Yes, I've been cautioned about reman/rebuilt parts - especially starters, generators and alternators!
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OK, so I 'violated' one of my own Rules - never make more than one change at a time! Recently bought a '77 - all OE as best I can tell. Wasn't running well (flat spot, hesitation, rough idle at cold start, etc...). Ordered a reman Quadrajet. While waiting for reman ('old' term: rebuilt) carb, replaced most vacuum hoses and the 'white' and 'green' ported vacuum switches (one on intake manifold, other on thermostat housing - both broke when removing old vac hoses). Now, all back together, including installation of reman carb. Cranks well - as it always did. Now, hard starting and, once started, engine either won't stay running (loses RPMs) or, RPMs 'run away' - immediately go to 3000, at which time I shut-down engine. Not good. While I believe all vac hoses are connected correctly, I cannot be 100% certain. While running new vac hoses, I found the ported vac switch hose to the heat riser vac motor had a plastic tube insert that was 'blocked' - making the heat riser inop. I removed the vac motor, checked its function (checked OK) and verified heat riser movement - it, too, was functional. All reconnected.
Ideas on where to start?
Is there a vacuum hose diagram?
...any and all suggestions and help is appreciated!
Removing Instrument Lights
in 1965-83 Avanti
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Hey!, Joe! Yes, nice picture! How'd you do it? I tried posting a picture a while back and couldn't do it/find out how. What's the secret? tnx, Bill