BillyBob
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Posts posted by BillyBob
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Have a 5-speed Camaro trans (Tremex) in my '63 Avanti - want to change (white) gear shift knob to correct pattern. Where to find?
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Re your repair: Do you know - repops or OE?
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Catching up on some old Turning Wheels ads - what is known about visor restoration? Specifically, I see a Business Card File ad for Loga Enterprises in Eau Claire, WI that does " interior sun visor restoratiion". What experience is there with this service? Other?
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Re above image with Big Block Chevy in Avanti. Either photoshopped or, Fake News. lol
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Issue 179 p20, "The only significant change came in the engine bay. Studebaker had switched from making its own engines to buying them from Chevrolet. Altman followed suit," says Jonathan A. Stein.News to me! Yes, Studebaker, once settled in Canada and running out of Studebaker motors, began putting Chevy motors in Canadian-made Studes. From where does Stein, executive editor and associate publisher of Hagerty Classic Cars, get his info on Studebaker Avantis?This, most likely will join the other and well-known falsehoods, including Avantis,
- are kit cars
- were built in Canada
- are Italian cars
- used Ford 289 cid motors
- were not made in Mexico
- do not use fibreglass bodies
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OK, so the reason I have the door trim panel off is to find a way to secure the weatherseal screw at the rear edge of the door ("hole 1" on Body Section, p13 of Avanti Workshop Manual). I'm thinking of thinning epoxy with rubbing alcohol and working it into the oversized hole. Will it work? I don't know. Have also thought of drilling hole larger to accept a screw anchor, as might be used in dry wall. Thoughts?
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I've got the driver's side door panel off and am thinking about replacing the Door Window Run/"Cat Whiskers" (SI p/n: 800507, 3/8 inch x 8 feet). A local shop can staple replacements in place. What trouble might I find?
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Got it - thanks! Hard to believe, but I believe I'm simply not running hot enough to build pressure. On a 75F day at 60mph, I'm running about 170F! Timing has been retarded a bit to improve driveability around town. Also have electronic ignition with Edelbrock 4bbl.
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Suspect my '63 R1 has a bad overflow radiator tank cap. Who knows the aftermarket part number? Thanks, Billy Bobs
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Thank you to all! I should have been more specific and, in asking another Avanti owner, I've come up with a solution. My intent is to show a front plate at car shows and cruise-ins only. Actually, it is not a license plate - rather a license-plate sized identification plaque I received at a show several years ago. I will use either cables or chain with S-hooks attached to each end ot the cable/chain - one end going through each of the license plate holes, the other ends looping over a horizontal grille bar. Easily removed and won't mess with bumper pads, etc. Ok, and even those times when I forget to remove it, with luck, it just may stay in place until I remember to remove it!
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How is a license plate mounted on the Avanti's front (chrome) bumper?
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Ok, so my R4314 has that option, too. What point in trying to make functional? Yes, I have other (better?) things to do!
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Thanks! I'll take a look at this, Bill
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...suppose everyone wants what I want!
A "water cooler discussion" once upon a time suggested using a 3/4-inch plywood cutout.
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Has anyone tried using a fiber spacer under the 4V carb to reduce heat transfer? If so, sourced where? Tnx, Bill
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It wasn't real pretty - the original owner of my '63 somehow or another "handcrafted an expanded wire grille."
I believe the assembly was chrome-plated before installation. It fell-off (welded studs broke off) last summer while driving home. I've still got it -- for the Right Price??? See AOAI #168, p12. Bill -
Looking to reduce heat in my '63. Are pre-cut kits available?
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Yep...it's ceramic. Do exhaust pipe in addition to exhaust manifold?
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A while back I restored a Ford Y-block and when rebuilding the motor, I had the exhaust manifolds aluminized. 20 years later, I was very pleased with the appearance. I'm having some motor work done on my 289 Stude Avanti and would like to "do something similar". I understand porcelain coating today is very popular. No, not a show car a nice driver. Experience? Opinions?
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Hope the files are attached -- if not, please let me know your email address & I will send there. Bill
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Thanks and absolutely!
Speaking of,
...got a nice driver-quality original equipment (not repop) grille & air cleaner for sale?
Missed the air cleaner by a few bucks a few years ago when I took my eye off the ball! Only recently have I decided to install a year-appropriate grille in a car built without one. The original owner fabricated a nice-looking (my opinion) egg-crate grille that nearly fit the opening and was secured by 5 studs, 3 of which sheared due to vibration, etc. Hence, a noisy grille. Who noticed? It fell off over the weekend. Limped home with a shoestring holding up one side. Could make a nice article for Avanti Magazine if I get so motivated.
Still trying to upload a photo to appear on forum page -- couldn't do a few years back, still seems cranky. What's up?
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Horn now works! It was the relay! I found one at Car Quest, p/n 56-2447 (replacement for Echlin HR114). Thanks!
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Well.....I "fabricated" a retainer (wound thin wire around the threads for the bolt on the inside of the fender apron) so I could secure the cleaned ground wire and horn bracket to fender apron; cleaned right-hand horn bracket and ground wire -- reassembled. Relay still clicks when horn ring is pressed; no beeping of horn. No, have not checked wire continuity. Not looking forward to this, tho continuity of ground should be easy to establish. I suspect relay is too weak to pull-in to beep horns. Who knows what modern-day relay is similar to original?
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OK, I'll reignite the discussion. Last summer, the horns on my '63 blew intermittently. This year, not at all. Lo frequency horn toots when hot-wired; no such good fortune with hi-frequency. Relay engages - buzzing sound - when horn ring is pressed. Suspect low frequency horn is ground issue - if poor ground there, will that affect other (high frequency) horn (maybe high-frequency horn is shot?)? I'll keep chasing -- my question is, "what is replacement/repair for the worn-out pressed-nut that retains the screw that holds the horn bracket?" I can think of several, 1) use longer screw and put a second nut next to fender inner, sandwiching horn bracket, with the original on top, 2) fabricate/modify a pressed-nut/U-nut somehow. Both ideal for a 2-person job -- my arms are kind of short to do either. Bill
How to Correct Reported Build Specs for Interior?
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted · Edited by BillyBob
Window Sticker Codes explained.
My '63 R1 Avanti, R4314, is reported (see pg. F-198 of Avanti Authenticity Manual) as being the first car built with black (vs salt and pepper/turquiose and black) carpeting on floor and door panels. I have Production Order & Window Sticker (file attached; sticker indicates Avanti Turquoise exterior paint (P6332), carpets/lower door panels/floor as turquoise and black, optional Regal trim (923, pleated doors/seat inserts) with turquoise (TQV) upholstery) . I've also established contact with Alan Basile, Authenticity Manual co-author, to correct. What else - if anything - to do? Many thanks for thoughts & response!
R4314 Window Sticker smaller file.pdf