BillyBob
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Posts posted by BillyBob
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I'm looking at adding disc brakes on the rear of my 1963 R1, standard shift. What to watch for?
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It is my understanding that 1963 R1s with a/c had seven blade engine fans and were painted orange, some call it "Chevrolet orange". What says the forum? Is there a paint code? Further, non-a/c cars had five blade engine fans and were painted black. And, the forum says...
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Still available?
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The 1963 Avanti Workshop Manual specifies an SAE 6 fuse for the brake lamps. I'm not doing well on a conversion.
Could AWG-6 be an acceptable substitute?
Thanks...
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regnalbob - Just looked at Rock Auto. # RC1. Gives me RC11 when I search. RC11 does not appear to have a wire connector.
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Many thanks - I appreciate the help!
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The wire on my '63 R1 alternator condenser came loose - what is a replacement, please?
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Good assumption. However, new rag joint comes without screw. It is a unique screw - no longer available.
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The 12-point screw on my '63 Avanti that secures the clamp at the rag joint on the steering column has seen better days. I understand it is not available. What do others do when substituting the screw? Ref.: Illustration no. 1301-7, p/n 1557280. Thanks, Bill
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regnalbob, illustration 2101-168 is p/n 526600X9. Illustration 2101-76, according to the Parts Catalog is p/n 526600X1. In my Parts Catalog, dated July 1963, these are detailed on pages 152 (2101-76) and 153 (2101-168). Question: do either of your Avantis have a/c and is clip (illustration 2101-76, p/n 195407) used on the heater hoses at the front of the right-hand rocker cover?
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Thank you, regnalbob. My reference is to 2101-76, not 2101-168, in the Plate you attached. Thank you for your interest. I believe the "lacer" (spacer? - apparent typo) is a flat washer.
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64 studeavanti: yes, a/c and heater only cars have different heater hose routing. This is covered in detail in the Authenticity Manual, pages B-8 (a/c) and B-18&19 (heater only).
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Hey, Brad - I want what you have (that clamp)!! What does clip, lacer (spacer?), p/n 526600X1 look like?
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Innocently enough, I began with repair (replacement) of a leaking heater core. A fun job - perhaps for someone else! One who has little interest in removing the heater core and blower assembly ever again, I thought a rebuild of the 57-year old blower motor might be appropriate. So far, so good. While I'm assembling parts, I thought it might be appropriate to take a look at heater hose routing. We all(?) know the Workshop and Parts Manual illustrations are guidelines and best to follow the illustration reference numbers for part numbers. Here's what I've found, Parts Manual Plate 21-1 seems to show formed heater hoses at both engine connections and straight nipples connecting to each of the 2 engine connections. The nipple (item 2101-90, p/n 1691714) closest to the motor center line (almost directly under the radiator surge tank, connecting to the water pump) - on my car - has a 90 degree bend, the other being a straight nipple (item 2101-89, p/n 1548305). I believe the Parts Manual is incorrect in specifying a formed hose (item 2101-74, p/n 1548497X18), connecting to the engine/water pump. The other hose, item 2101-72 (p/n 1548497X3), I believe to be correct when listed as a formed hose.
My car is missing item 2101-76, clip (p/n 195407 and its mate - clip, lacer, p/n 526600X1).
Simply asked, who has an image/photo of heater hose routing using this clip & clip, lacer that they could share?
See attached files for illustration & part numbers.
Thanks, Bill
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It is possible to remove heater core/blower housing without removing/loosening a/c, loosening I/P, loosening console - I did it! The 3 most important tools were 1) coolant catch basin, 2) cork to plug lower heater core tube, and 3) flat tire iron (most critical tool for gentle encouragement of clearing housing assembly from lower edge of I/P). Watch out for pinching blower motor wires on removal and routing of temp control cable on reinstall.Now, considering rebuild of blower motor. Do not want to go through this again! FYI: Workshop Manual grossly understates removal. Told, I am, Studebaker Corporation allowed 1.0 hour for heater core R&R.
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Thanks to all - assembly is loose; heater hoses disconnected. Helped removing washers on engine side of dash panel.. Pushed blower motor wires thru dash panel - hoping they don't get cut as assembly is removed. Yes, having difficulty getting heater core/blower housing past a/c lines. Taking a break for the night... Stay tuned.
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Pretty certain I have a leaking heater core. Workshop manual makes removal & installation sound easy enough - what tricks do I need to know? Thanks in advance.... Bill
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Thanks, Brad! Springs ordered.
What Brand and p/n do you use for shocks? Bill
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Jack, to clarify - ideally there should be a straight line (180 degrees) between the trans output shaft and the pinion angle. Correct?
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...there is hope! Let's hope my "driveline shop" understands this!! Thanks!
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In the quiet of fall, I'm considering replacing the rear springs on my '63 (now arcing down at both ends, both sides). Eaton Detroit Spring can supply 5 or 6 leaf springs (standard or HD, I presume) in 3-4 weeks. Some have told me in replacing the springs I "may" run into a driveline angle issue, resulting in vibration. Further, I am told, when Studebaker would receive a spring shipment of 50 or so units they would road test to determine what size shims would need to be placed where to settle driveline angle/alignment on that lot of springs/vehicles and this the number of shims and shim sizes could vary considerably from one lot to another.
Suspect my 57 year-old shocks are original and I'd replace at the same time.
Comments, please... Thanks!
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I understand the new spinner is of different design/construction. Call Real Rodders 805.402.2212 for details. Am also under impression there's a Canadian source. Have no details.
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Looking for replacement shifter boot for manual trans. Was given '65-'72 Buick Skylark, 4 speed as comparable. Bought RP33-Z from Metro Moulded Parts. Base diameter appears too large (5.5 inch O.D.) and hole for shaft is rectangular. At minimum, I'd like one for a round shaft. Experience of others?
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Yesterday, June 22, 2020, I received an update from Real Rodders on their replica Halibrand wheels for Avanti/Studebaker. There is Good News! A contract for a tooling supplier/manufacturer has been signed with several details pending finalization. There is Better News!! The updated Real Rodder spinners will be low-pressure cast and not sand cast as were earlier replicas. What does this mean? A high quality casting without any porosity, much higher detail and show polish finish and a much stronger part. Equal in quality to the finished wheels. Interested? Call Real Rodders at 805.402.2212. 50 sets are planned for production with no guarantee for additional runs. My place in the queue is set.
Rear disc brakes
in 1963-64 Avanti
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Tom, many thanks - I appreciate your sharing the experience, Bill.