profaqualung
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Posts posted by profaqualung
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I pulled my vacuum gauge out a few years ago when I went to a 383 engine - filled the hole with a oil temp gauge.
This past week I put the vacuum gauge back in its original hole and hooked it back up.
But the readings while running down the road, do not seem to be what they were before I took it out - as near as I can remember.
My questions -
What should the gauge read at idle with a carburetor engine?
What should it read at around 70?
What would the reading be under "passing cars" type acceleration - not pedal to the metal?
Currently, all the gauge readings are way to the right hand side. I know I have a little carburetor issue which will be addressed tomorrow, but am just curious as to what the vacuum gauge should be reading once the carb is retuned.
Thank you
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My 70 when stock - with a 300/350 - 3.70 Dana rear - Stude. trans - would get 15.5 to 15.8 consistently - and I drive hard.
Now that it has a 383/425 [with extra headwork and different cam] - Ford 9" rear with 3.50 - and a beefed 700R4 - I am getting in the mid to upper 18 range at posted highway speeds - and 19.1 running 2600+/80+. Go figure.
The above stated figures are obviously highway. Around town it is in the 11 to 12 range. The 383 has a Barry Grant 850 carb.
When it was in its original configuration, I was getting miles per gallon in the range you are experiencing, but as stated, I drive hard.
Gunslingers suggestion on the FI is right on the money. Best of both worlds - performance and fuel economy. For an Avanti that will be driven a lot, it would be well worth the initial investment. If FI is not in your future, talk to the local car guys/hot rodders - find out who is the local Rochester guru and have him set the carb up, and stick with him getting it adjusted/tuned.
pa
An option you might want to consider, a GearVendor overdrive unit. Put one on my 70 Mercury Cyclone [boss466/720 horse w/C6 trans, 3.50 rear] and jumped from 15.1 on the highway to 18.6
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A test to see if Photobucket has fixed certain pic posting problems I was having.
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professor aqualung
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When I got my Avanti II, I was researching various info on the cars and came across this site and its drag numbers.
I remember that at the time, I found another site that listed the Avanti [63-64] as having a drag coefficient of .314 to .317 - .02 better than a 2007 ZO6 Vette.
For the life of me, I cannot find that site right now - but I will.
Prof. Aqualung
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http://youtube.com/watch?v=c4RyzX3Z1_k
Not to hijack the other thread about pilots and Avanti owners - here are a couple of fly-bys that push the limit.
Notice the jets altimeter [lower right display] - says 10' - I think its off by 5'.
Special thanks to Matt Younkin and the twin Beech.
PA
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Tony S-
Here is a little more info that may or may not help out.
Specialty Wheels makes a Magnum 500 rim in either 16 or 17 inch. I run the 16" rims - they fit perfectly over the Turner brake conversion, plus my front end has had one coil of spring cut out of it.
Tires -
Coker offers BFG in 215/65X16 narrow [2 1/4] white wall, and American Classic in a number of 16" sizes - narrow and wide whitewall.
Back to the rims - the Specialty rims are a high quality item - not spot welded like the 'Vintiques' rims. They are good to over 180 mph in case you choose to go that fast.
The rims in the pic on my signature photo are the 16" Specialtys painted to match.
PA
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You're not going to find a rotor at any local parts supplier...unless they have some original Studebaker rotors still sitting around. You're going to have to contact Myer's Studebaker, Studebaker International or Nostalgic Motors for one...new rotors have become available through their efforts within the last few years and they cost $200 US each. If you order a new rotor go ahead and order pads from them at the same time...they're about $35-$40 a set.
To be honest...the best way to go is buy the Turner Conversion Kit...a complete kit including new and more modern parts...calipers, rotors, pads, hoses, bearings, etc. It's everything but the labor to install it all. Your leftover parts that are still good can be resold to offset some of the costs of the new kit. I'm not knocking the original design, but it's simply more cost effective than buying replacement original type parts.
What Gunslinger said.
The Turner conversion is the absolute best way to go. Greatly improves stopping performance.
The instructions could not be easier - everything is labeled.
Well worth the investment.
PA
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His domain had to be changed to http://www.theavanti.net
The website host he was using went out of business and there was apparently no way to transfer the domain to another web host server.
And another "thank you" for the information.
PA
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That's the body number ID plate. Studebaker used them (on all vehicle production I believe). Avanti Motors used them for some time before discontinuing its use. My car (RQB1574) doesn't have a body number plate so Avanti Motors must have discontinued using them between yours and mine.
Maybe your car has a leftover Studebaker Avanti body that had the plate attached. When Avanti Motors purchased everything Avanti from Studebaker there was a number of leftover car bodies plus something like 150 bodies at Molded Fiberglass alone. I've read that's why Bob Morrison of MFG was so willing to work with Nate Altman as he was stuck with those car bodies after Studebaker shut down Avanti production and cancelled the contract. Outside of the engine, the early Avantis were virtually all leftover Studebaker parts anyway.
I figured it was something like that, glad to know for sure. Build date was 2-20-69, but it wasn't titled until Sept. 69, thus giving it a 1970 registration - at least that was the way they did it in Mississippi.
And thank you for not making any comment about my having overlooked this tag in the past 64 plus months of ownership.
Time for new bifocals.
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After over 5 years of ownership of this car, and 2 engine changes, I have discovered a plate in the engine compartment I have never noticed before. About 4 inches above the passenger side hood support is a plate [partially covered] with this on it -
RQ
4886
Now, my cars number [according to the door plate and title] is RQA0346.
So what is this plate and what does it mean?
Thank You
Aqualung
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I enjoyed the information on "The Avanti" website. What has happened to it? Does anyone know the website owner?
www.theavanti.com
And who do we contact to bring it back?
I would gladly contribute time and money to have it restored.
Prof. Aqualung
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70 Avanti II
383 aluminum head stroker sbc w/ med. rise aluminum manifold. Crate engine from General Motors with their manifold.
Barry Grant 850.
Speedway 1950 Cadillac ambulance aircleaner.
Though we did have to modify the base to allow the aircleaner to drop down about 1 inch, and a modification to the back so it would clear the HEI distributor.
And I am not running any insulation on the underneath side of the hood - the paint is too exceptional to hide.
PA
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This may or may not help, but I have a set of 16"x7" [specialty Wheel] Magnum 500's that may soon be available if you would like to consider them.
A set that has been painted to match the car, are on the picture above.
Front tires are Kuhmo 205/65X16 and the backs are 235/60X16 - 180 MPH rated. 25.6 diameeter in front, 27 in back.
The front is a Turner brake conversion and the back is Ford Explorer [10 1/2] on a Currie 9" Rear end.
The front end also has one coil cut out of the front spring.
NO CLEARANCE PROBLEMS AT ALL - front or rear.
A friend has the 16" rims on his GT350H mustang, but will soon be going back to the Halibrands, and the 16" rims will be available if you are interested.
PA
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RQB1899
I'm getting a late start on this one, but let me throw my 2 cents in anyway.
I installed a 494 horse 383 SBC couple to a 700R4 in my 70 Avanti II. It immediately became apparent that the weak link was going to be the Dana 44 pegleg rearend. Invested in a 9" Currie [with Explorer discs on the back] to cure the problem.
They recommend a 5 degree down setting for the rear end - the Dana that came out was 4 degree down.
If you do a 'search' [Currie 9 inch] on this forum, you will find a complete list of what I ordered and its specifications.
One other tidbit - I had to go to 16" rims [Magnum type] to get tires that were 180mph speed ratings.
Thomas
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Never having seen the 84 plastic bezel, I am not 100% sure this would work, but it should.
The material is stainless 1/2"wire [.046 thickness] from TWP,Inc. Take off your bezel and affix the wire mesh to the backside with small masking tape - 3 pieces on top and bottom - 2 pieces on each side. Once the wire is secured to the backside, using very sharp wire cutters, cut as close to the inside lip as possible - making sure the wire does not move.
Once cut, it should be a tight fit on the inside - next you need to make some kind of gasket to hold the screen against the inside of the bezel - I used 1/4' clear tubing, with a straightened coat hanger inserted so it would stay in shape. Also making sure that where the 2 ends meet, is on the bottom - water drainage.
As for keeping them clean and shiny - without having to take them apart all the time, I use a trick we bikers discovered many moons ago. With all the high dollar motorcycle and car 'spray on' cleansers that were available - SHOUT [laundry spray] works as well if not better than most of them. Who knew?
As Ernier noted - the lighting is MUCH better. With good headlight bulbs, I do not feel like I am 'outrunning' my headlights.
Thomas
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Since making these covers, I have not had to replace a broken headlight - or a broken glass cover, or a discolored cover. Though I have had to replace 2 windshields due to all the gravel and pulp wood trucks running these MS roads.
Not anywhere near 'original', but they work - and don't look half bad.
Thomas
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Have just finished installing a Currie 9" in my 70 Avanti II. The main reason being that Idid not feel comfortable in the ability of the 39 year old Dana 44 [pegleg] to handle the rather large increase in power.
If anyone else out there is contemplating such a swap, here are some measurements that should help. I am not suggesting you rely totally on these measurements - but if there is a major discrepancy between my figures and what you have, a recheck should straighten it out.
AXLE HOUSING 3RD MEMBERS
Style - performance Style - 9-plus round Style - 9" Ford
Type - tapered - T&E End Type - Torino / LB Ratio - 3.50S [the Dana was a 3.54]
Spline - 31 BRKTS - pads see notes Spline - 31
Pattern - 5 on 4.5 inch Hsg Width - 52.78 Diff - True Trac
Stud - 19/32 Dr. Hsg - 21.44 Yoke - 1330 - short 9+ [C]
Reg. Dia. - 2.800 Pass. Hsg - 21.316 Case - Original
Dr. Axle - 27.079 Dr. Tube - 17.417 Pin Supp - Original
Pass. Axle - 29.576 Pass. Tube - 17.289
Brakes - Ford Explorer 10 1/2 Disc
NOTES - Pads 41.25" at 5 degrees down [ weld on universal GM or truck style] - Pinion is Negative - Spring under 2.250 Pads - U-joint strap kit 1 1/8" cup
Overall width - 58.25
Pin Offset - 0.94
Brake space - E 2.5
Drum Rotor - 0.235
U-Bolts - 3 X 6 1/2
A couple of installations hints - if you are using Magnum 500 rims that were manufactured be Specialty Wheels, you will have to grind of a small part of the top of the caliper for the wheels to fit - about .195 - and it is in an area that will not affect the structural integrity. The heavier/stronger welds on the SW rims are the cause of the problem. The remanufactured/restored 500 rims that come from TDW, do not have that problem.
As for the 10 1/2 inch Explorer rear discs - they are perfect - especially if you have already converted to the Turner upgrade on the front. In a couple of 60 MPH 'panic' stops, they tracked as straight as one could hope for, and NO hint of the back brakes trying to lock up before the front. All they did was STOP! ! !
Because of the weight of the new rear end, and the amount of distance it travels when the car is jacked up, there is a possiblity of the driveshaft getting bent where it hits the frame crossmember.
Also, if you are running 2 1/2 inch exhaust pipes, make sure they are as close to the bottom of the car as possible.
The only part we had to make, was the mount for the traction bars - just TOO many variables that figure in to the placement of them. If you need a pattern for them, drop me a note, and I will forward them to you.
As far as performance goes, it is still too early to really know what the difference will be - I did go to a larger rear tire - 235/60R15 -[205/65R15 in front] - 'W' Rated - - - BUT - the added stopping power was a bonus I wasn't expecting and have been extremely satisfied with.
Hope this might help anybody considering this type of swap.
Thomas
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This is a little late, but I am going to throw my 2 cents in anyway.
IWe just completed putting in a modified crate 383 SBC in my 70 Avanti. With 700R4 trans.
For headers, we used the Speedway cast stainless steel ramhorns [2 1/2" diameter], that had been polished.
No real clearance problems on the drivers side, though we did build a heat shield to protect the steering hoses.
The problem occured on the passenger side - the pipe off the headers ran TOO close to the tranny, and as a result we ended up cutting out a hole in the frame [and reboxing it for strength], and routing the pipe thru it.
Offset Flowmasters [offset inlet, center outlet] where used for mufflers, but I quickly found out they were entirely TOO RASPY for my taste [and I love my 69 Vette sidepipes]. So we put on some 12" Cherry Bombs in front of the axle, and that toned things down sufficiently.
These same mufflers on my 70 Mercury Cyclone [with 'H' pipe] sound great - but the difference in engine power and the 'h' pipe makes turns them into a really annoying sound.
An added bonus from these headers, after running them a while and getting them HOT, they discolored quites a bit - oranges, coppers, yellows, and reds - they now are color coordinated to my new paint job - Candy Metallic New Penny Copper.
Thomas
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JUST RECEIVED SOME FURTHER INFORMATION FROM THE OWNER.
THE RIMS ARE 15 INCH, AND HE BELIEVES THEY WERE ON THE CAR WHEN IT WAS PURCHASED NEW.
THOMAS
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ON PAGE 74, OF ISSUE #144 OF THE AVANTI MAG, THAT JUST CAME OUT, IS AN 87 CONVERTIBLE FOR SALE ON THE BOTTOM RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THE PAGE.
ANYBODY HAVE ANY IDEA WHAT KIND OF RIMS THESE MIGHT BE.
I HAVE CONTACTED THE OWNER, AND HE DOES NOT KNOW - THEY WERE ON THE CAR WHEN HE GOT IT.
THEY LOOK VERY SIMILAR TO THE SPOKED ALLOY RIMS USED ON FORD CROWN VICS AND MERC GRAND MARQUIS, BUT THEY ARE NOT THE SAME. THE CENTER HUB IS COMPLETELY FLAT AND SMOOTH, AND THE SPOKES [40] HAVE A SQUARE OFF FACE.
THERE IS A POSSIBILITY OF THEM BEING OFF A MUSTANG OR MERKUR TRANS AM CAR FROM THE MID 80'S.
ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED
THOMAS
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THANKS GUYS - I SEEM TO HAVE MADE A MOUNTAIN OUT OF A MOLE HILL.
TURNS OUT THAT THERE ARE ANY NUMBER OF PLACES WHO CAN TAKE THE OLD CABLE, AND PUT A NEW END TO FIT IN THE 200R4 - THEN IT JUST BECOMES A MATTER OF SELCTING THE CORRECT PLASTIC GEAR TO FIT ON THAT END. THE HARD PART BEING THE REMOVAL OF THE OLD CABLE, AND THEN REINSTALLING IT WHEN IT COMES BACK.
IN CASE ANY ONE ELSE RUNS INTO THIS PROBLEM, HERE ARE SOME OTHERS THAT WILL FIX THE PROBLEM
SPEEDO SERVICE - PORTLAND, OREGON - 1-800-6342145 - SUGGESTED BY STEWART WARNER
BLOOMENTHAL TRANS - OKC, OK [GO SOONERS] - 1-800-2629557
AND THE LISTING WAYNE SUGGESTED - THEY HAD AN E-MAIL WAITING FOR ME FIRST THING THIS MORNING.
WOULDN'T IT BE NICE IF ALL PROBLEMS WERE THIS EASY TO FIND A CURE FOR ? ? ?
THOMAS
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Has anyone out there replaced the Stude transmission that originally came in their Avanti II, with a GM unit - specifically a 200R4 ?
If so, what was involved in hooking up the factory speedometer to the GM transmission ?
I know Gunslinger is using an after market speedo in his 70 Avanti II, but if at all possible, I would like to keep all the gauges original.
All suggestions will be appreciated.
Vacuum Gauge
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted
Thank you Gunslinger. We adjusted the carb and the gauge is still reading further to the right than I remember. Will try the lubricating trick you suggested and see what happens.