Jred
-
Posts
174 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Jred
-
-
I remember seeing a post a while back on how to repair the locking mechanism on the door. My works search isn’t pulling anything up. Any how to’s on what needs to be done?
-
@Zedman thanks. I was considering that.
the squeal is from the power steering pump actually. The accessory brackets all need sorting really. -
I have a set of floor mats I’d like to find a home for. Beige or tan in color. $150 obo
I can assist with shipping but it would be on the buyers dime
dm or email jayredwood@gmail.com
i don’t seem to get notified when messages are sent on this site so bare with me
-
I am 100% the last digits are 8BQ, I just took a rubbing off the stamp to confirm.
-
Thanks for the pictures everyone. Gives me food for thought.
Im now considering a major overhaul on the engine compartment. Front and rear main seals need replacing and I'd like to make the engine unleaded friendly while adding some horse purrs...
-
4 hours ago, pantera928 said:
Is this a 350 or a 400?
Its a 350
-
So last time I was changing the belts on my 1970 Avanti II I noticed the power steering pulley was not lined up well. I made up some spacers to help the alignment but things are still not cop-esthetic. The belt rubs and squeals a tad when rpm’s drop. The alternator sits high and indents the hood insulation. My goal is to utilize the space a bit more efficiently and clean up engine bay with some new bracketry and mechanics(ps/alt). The original ac has been removed from the engine compartment and eventually I’d like to add that back in eventually. Went out the car to look up the engine casting numbers.
The casting on the front is V03128BQ.
From a past thread I see that the engine was built in Flint on March 12th, but I’m curious what the 8BQ signifies.
Also, do this alternator bracket look “factory”. Strange the valve cover was milled down.
I’ll gain access to the casting number on the back of the engine this weekend.
-
I got the Flomaster Super HP-2’s installed and I love the sound compared to before. The video doesn’t do it justice but here it is anyways. https://youtu.be/W_NuXHUpGSY
-
On 3/23/2022 at 10:58 AM, Avanti83 said:
Does it continue to vibrate as you decelerate or stop vibrating at a lower speed?
It will stop at around 65/70mph.
On 3/23/2022 at 8:59 AM, silverstude said:tie rods or general alignment
I'll check those out when I install the fresh coils and shocks.
On 3/23/2022 at 4:14 PM, mfg said:Possible defective engine mounts issue...since your Avanti ll has a 700R4 conversion look everywhere for metal-to-metal contacts.....Since driveshaft was modified, check for depth of front yoke in trans extension housing.
Good call.
On 3/23/2022 at 4:41 PM, mfg said:I'd also remove the driveshaft and check for any looseness and/or tightness in the universal joints ...especially the front one.
Will do!
thanks all!
-
If I get the 1970 Avanti up to about 80mph and decelerate there’s a vibration that seems to be in the general area of the firewall. Original Sbc350 w/65k, 700r4 installed while under previous ownership. Fresh tires.
Any suggestions on where to start? -
I think I’ll keep the size of the exhaust tubing and replace the mufflers. I’m looking at the Super HP-2 mufflers at the moment. What I’m seeing is they aren’t raspy or droney in the cabin.
Before looking at the exhaust really I thought I’d have to have to the shop install the mufflers but the kit is all bolt-together so I’m thinking I can simply install these mufflers? Unless I’m missing something.
Picture of the passenger side muffler and clearance of the 700r4. Rotating the tubing should help.
-
Currently running what I believe is the 2” nostalgic motors kit my 1970, sbc350/700r4. The passenger side muffler is rattling around from a speed bump or drive way game of tag. My wife says riding in the car is making her nauseous so I’m looking into potential causes. The muffler being one, but it could also be a good time and excuse for an upgrade.
Anyone upgrade to a 3” exhaust? I’d love to get a bit more sound out of the car with out being annoying. I’ll have to double check but I believe the mufflers are Magnaflow. -
9 hours ago, Kodjo said:
@Jred Wow, nice floor mats! Were did you get these?
Found mine on ebay. Turns out they came from SI as well
-
Added 5 more horse power I’m sure. 🤪
Ties the room together
-
@Dunkin I just installed new HD leaf springs on my 70’. They sit flat. The original leafs had an inverted arch.
Passenger side I spent way too many hours trying to get the hardware free. Driver side I borrowed a hack saw and spent 15 minutes getting the leaf off.
-
13 hours ago, Avanti83 said:
Looks like a combination of old age and modest weld surface have caught up with the mount. I'd just put better metal on the bottom of the hat and weld the bracket in more completely. That one has held up over 50 years so the initial design, although not the best, worked.
I'd also weld the side of the bracket to the frame on the other side also. That should help resist the pulling forces from the bar.
Yeah the sway bar must have been a Friday afternoon special. The more Iook the more I notice the welds in certain areas look rushed
-
Driver side started showing some major fatigue so I removed the sway bar today to examine. It only took a few wiggles to yank the mount from the frame.
Running it with out the sway bar till some proper reinforcement is devised.
-
5 hours ago, pantera928 said:
Looks nice and muscular with those on the rear
The wife, “Now it looks like it feels.”
-
Upgraded to 255/60r15 Bfg radials on the rear. Stayed with 215/60r15s on the front. Filled in the wheel well nicely.
-
@silverstude thanks. I’ll mention that to my friend. I was thinking also maybe some L shaped reinforcement brackets running vertically and onto the sway bar mount.
-
Delete post
-
Bringing the thread current...
New leaf springs, shocks, and passenger side sway bar mount fixed on. My buddy did the fabrication work.
With the new leafs/shocks most of the “row boat” feel is gone. Along with the white knuckle freeway grip. Ha
-
18 minutes ago, pantera928 said:
Just looked at mine and they look like new
His work was definitely more stout than factory. This car has been in SoCal all it’s life so there’s only surface rust. I can’t imagine this is the only car that’s dealt with.
I swore I heard one of his rosette welds give today pulling into the auto parts store but maybe it was a u-bolt shifting. I’ll Jack it up and examine things later today.
-
When I acquired my 1970 Avanti the sway bar mount on the passenger side was coming away from the frame. Over time I could hear the tack welds coming off one by one when I would take a right turn into a inclined drive way. Eventually it was really bad and had a friend replace the metal. See attached pictures.
I just replaced the leafs and shocks, along with sway bar bushings. The sway bar is still having issues when I pull into an incline. The driver side frame mount is showing signs of fatigue now as well.
Anyone else have similar issues and is there an upgrade or alternative to the stock set up?
Door lock not locking from exterior
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted
Found this link. Putting it here for future reference if this turns out to be my issue.