Jred
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Posts posted by Jred
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I’d love by p get the clock in my dash operating again. Looks like a used replacement on eBay is very expensive and a couple places I’ve spoken to that will take the job on around $250 to fix what ever is wrong. Are there any other suggestions from the forum?
The clock is the original veglia borletti.
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I bought the two sizes based off another avanti owners recommendation here or on another forum. The 57s are supposed to be for the dash mainly. The clock and vacuum got the the 53’s. Although the LED versions of the 53 and 57 bulb seem to be the same size. The center console, shift bezel and overhead got 53’s. But as I mentioned the 57’s would probably fit everywhere. 57’s appear brighter as well.
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Yeah easily.
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Can’t seem to upload the other picts
#53, 182, 363, 1445 | 12-Volt Ba9S Base LED Replacement - Indicator SKU: AL-53-R-10PK LIGHT COLOR: RED
#1414, #1416, #57 LED Replacement | 12/14VDC SKU: AL-1414-R-10PK Color: RED Quantity: 10-Pack -
Here’s some more picts. I’d say they’re maybe 10% darker than what the photo is showing. But still much brighter than the old bulbs that were in there. Aero-lites.com
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Turns out that the gas gauge fuse was not the “clock fuse” but the “shifter fuse”. Replaced and things are well.
here’s a shot with the leds in
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5 hours ago, Thom said:
Jred, I am considering replaces all of the gauges in 1987 to digital. Are you able to access all of your gauges without removing the dash?
Yeah it’s tight in there though.
like others have suggested you are better off to remove the front driver seat completely to allow you to lay on your back. I also cut an access hole in the side of the dash under the chrome end cap. That helped but maybe not necessary. Oh and removing the key ignition helped gain access to the tach. Once the tach is out access becomes easier and easier. -
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I’m currently replacing all the lights in my dash. I have the tach out getting rebuilt. Anyways I pulled out the fuel and oil gauges as I thought I might try pulling them apart to clean the inside of the lenses. Decided not to after examining them. Went to put the gauges back in and now my fuel gauge doesn’t seem to read anything. Worked fine prior. I had taken some pictures of the wiring prior to pulling things apart but the lighting wasn’t the best so now I want to confirm the wiring. Does anyone know the proper placement of the wires for the back of the fuel gauge? The manual I have is black and white and I have not seen a proper description of wires that match mine.
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17 hours ago, brad said:
On the new Tach, there should be three wires. Red black and green (usually). Red will be plus. Black will be ground, and green will go to the - side of the coil. On the sending unit you had 4 wires. A white ground, a yellow from the sending unit to the brass terminal on the tach, and a grey to + 2 volts, and the brown wire to the - of the coil. So to put in the new one, the grey will be your +, the yellow will tie into the brown, and go to the - of the coil, and white will go to the black as a ground.
Perfect! Thanks @brad
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While dropping off the tach thee owner of the shop, speedo55check.com, shared with me that the sending unit is the same as what Dodge used in 1963-1966. For what it’s worth. I went with just updating the tach rather than keep things original.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/123598190748?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=g7J_inXXQMO&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=t39zGBH1SlW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY -
Finally got around to pulling out the tachometer and the sending unit. Found a place somewhat local to me in Los Angeles that will update the internals to run with out the original sardine can sending unit. What kind of wiring will I need to do while installing the updated tach? New territory for me. I’m keeping the points distributor btw.
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For prosperity sake...
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I also found some ford grease seals on ebay. Thanks @regnalbob
The bearings from Napa said MFG in the USA on the box along side a "made in China"
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Thanks @Gunslinger and @wildfelr
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Will do. Thanks @Gunslinger
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Here’s a picture of the crack. Definitely could be into the fiberglass
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13 hours ago, AD said:
NAPA lists Part #: PGB PBR2 for the outer bearing, and Part #: PGB PBR6 for the inner bearing. Bring your old one with to the store to make sure they match up.
Ihttps://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=wheel bearing&referer=v2
f your Avanti has the original Dunlop / Bendix brake calipers make sure you keep track of the shims on the upper and lower caliper mounting bolts when you take things apart. You'll save yourself a lot of time when you go to put things back together. If the shims get mixed up you'll have to go through the procedure as per page 6 of the Brakes section of the shop manual to get the caliper centered on the rotor.
Thanks AD, luckily that’s what I ended up ordering along with some seals. The parts are expected at the local Napa next week.
The previous owner installed the turner brake upgrade. -
I’m reading through all the “rake” threads and I think I’ll try cutting down new coils to lower the front a smidge but Silverstude’s last comment here, caught my eye.
My 1970 Avanti II with a sbc350 came with stress cracks in the paint, not in the fiberglass that I can see, on the fenders near the firewall. Is this somewhat common in Avanti II’s. There’s no modifications to the spacers that I can tell and the previous owners weren’t the modification types. -
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Slight grinding coming from front wheel so Im figuring its the wheel bearing.
What bearing kits are recommended? Is Napa an option or is this going to be a specific Studebaker supplier part? The car in question is a 1970
I haven't seen any how to write ups so Im assuming its a pretty straight forward process. Ive only been into various 80/90's 4x4 front hubs. Ill peel ope the FSM in bit for a gander.
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On 7/6/2022 at 5:27 AM, Avanti83 said:
Four is better than two but, in reality, the vast majority of SBC's were two bolt and they hold up just fine for the HP levels you were discussing.
I like sensible way of thinking.
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Thanks all.
Another friend suggested checking to see if its a 4 or 2 bolt. He mentioned that the 4 bolts from 1970 are good for building.
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I have a 1970 Avanti II with the original sbc350 in it. 65,000 miles.
A few months back I replaced a freeze plug that was leaking on the passenger side. That was easy to get to, just behind the starter. Today a freeze plug started leaking but this one is on the driver side just behind the motor mount. as far as I can tell, I’ll have to pull the motor to replace that plug.
During the last plug removal I noticed a good amount of build up in the water jacket of the block. I back flushed the block but I know there’s more in there. Seeing that the driver side plug is now going, and considering the various oil leaks from the front and back of the engine… I’m considering a full rebuild as opposed to a simple reseal.
I’d like to perform as much as possible of the rebuild myself, taking the block to the local machine shop for machining. while I’m at it upgrading the internals to run on modern gas and maybe give it few more HPs.
this would be my first engine rebuild.
What suggestions might you all have?Edit: about a year or so I installed an aluminum intake and had the Rochester 4 barrel rebuilt
thanks,
Jason
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I called Nostalgic Motors and one of the guys in the shop said they use Vintage air. Even gave me some of the parts numbers but I cant seem to locate the notes at the moment. Might want to give Nostalgic Motors a ring for some advice.
Dash clock replacement options?
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted
That’s a nice one. Unfortunately it wouldn’t match my dash enough for my mental well being. The rest of my og gauges are in a more 60’s font. I’ll keep looking. I did find a post on another forum, Alfa Romeo’s I think, where the author exchanged the guts out from a modern version.