GAWen
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Posts posted by GAWen
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My Avanti, RQB-1600 is a 1971 model, with a slightly modified engine. Nv only exempts vehicles built prior to 1967. Just another way for the politicians to redistribute the wealth, from my pocket to theirs. Hell, if I were to move 42 miles west, into Calif. I would not need smog inspection. In Ca. anything over 20 years is exempt. However, Nv. does have a special smog exempt license plate that restricts you to only 200 miles driving per year.
George
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After spend 3 years and many, many a paycheck, the wiring fire is finally repaired. My Avanti is nearly ready to take to the smog station and have her made legal once again. I gotta finish installing the steering wheel and horns, bleed the brakes, and go down the highway. I just hope that the modified 350 will pass smog. George
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My 1971 which has had 2 repaints, still has a blocked out mouth. Hum, wonder why?
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Have any of you gentlemen had the unfortunate task of pulling the A/C Evaporator on a Avanti II. The shop manual is of little to no help.
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I am looking for a aftermarket tilt steering column for my Avanti. Has anyone done this before? Which brand did you use? What is the model/stock #? aLSO LOOKING TO CONVERT TO Serpintine BELT arrangement WITH a/c. Which model/style has been used, and which works the best and give the maximum clearance. George RQB 1600
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I offered Rick's Restorations the opportunity to work on a rare piece of Americana. He flat out refused to touch it, as it did not fit in with his agenda.
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Has anyone replaced the stock steering column in a Altman (or 63-64) Avanti ? And if so, which vendor did you get your column from? How hard was it the make the electrical system match up ? Does any one have a 63-71 Tilt steering column for sale. Finally, who can/will rebuild my current column ?? RQB1600 can not go back on the road without a steering column.
George
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I have a 1971 with the 350 motor. I recently replaced the starter, using the old starter as a guide. Only now the new starter grinds on the ring gear like crazy. I have tryed various combinations of shims and placement of the shims, yet the grinding noise still persists. My ring gear is supposed to be a 12 3/4 in diameter with 153 teeth. How many teeth are supposed to be on the starter. The starter on this car is a real B---- to remove and install.
George
RQB 1600
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I have only seen that once before, and it was a decal on the inside of the glovebox door on a 1963 R1 Super Hawk.
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Saw this one on EBay..http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1963-Studebaker-Avanti-R-2-Project-Car-Solid-HOG-TROUGHS-/360442828798?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item53ec1117fe#ht_6849wt_1165
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A fully restored 1957 Studebaker Golden Hawk was recently sold at Barrett-Jackson for $99,000.00.
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There is no set color code for the 1981's. The factory painted them any automotive color you requested.
The trunk release is a "T" handle, inside the car on the drivers side, near the floor at the back seat.
George
RQB 1600
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Just a couple of thoughts as I have not put one in a Studebaker.
1- Probably easier to find if you contact Ididit Co not Idiot
2- I don't think they make a Stude column so go to there website which will tell you how to measure your column to get one of their's that fit and then call them.
3- Lastly, don't forget Flaming River as a source too.
Bob
Damn, you caught me on my grammar and spelling.
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Has anyone installed a Idiot tilt steering column in their Avanti? I amthinking of putting one in my 1971 Avanti II RQB 1600, Studebaker tilt column and in dash ignition switch. If so, which model, part number do I need to order? Looking for a chrome column.
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As I said, I'm no expert, but I'd like to learn more, to understand why you're testing ohms instead of amps.
You haven't told us what reading you were expecting.
The ohm reading you are getting between the disconnected battery cables does sound high, but I don't know what it is supposed to be, do you? In other words, why do you think that reading means it's broke? Seems to me that if the reading were zero ohms (which is what the reading would be if you measure at opposite ends of a wire that's not connected to anything), that would be a dead short... so if you connected the cables to the battery, it would smoke the wiring or the battery, just as though you connected a cable right across the battery posts. Therefore you don't want a zero-ohm reading; what reading do you want? Are you looking for an infinity ohm reading? That would seem logical, it would mean nothing is using any power, but every device would have to be disconnected, including the clock and any keep-alive circuitry like in an aftermarket radio, and any courtesy lights that might have faulty switches (glove box, trunk light, etc); a bad alternator diode can cause a leak to ground, also.
I was hoping to have a reading close to infinity, as every parasitic device is currently disconnected or removed from the vehicle. I was able to get the vehicle to start 2 times, and then nothing, no clicking, no smoke, I suspect that the neutral safety switch may be activated.
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Sorry to hear about your troubles. Do you have a good, clean, ground strap connection from the engine to the frame?
Not only one ground strap, but three ground straps.
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Played with the electrical system some more this morning. The resistance is not in the ampmeter unit. Decided to get brave, bold and daring, and connected the battery (with all fuses pulled), no sparks, that was a good sign. No fire, even better sign. Turned the key, and voila, the engine rotated 4 times and rumbled to life. After 2 years, finally. Now to continue with totally solving the electrical system. BTW, I did find a bad wire, touching the alternator case,, at the alternator plug-in connector.
George
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The fire started in the main body wiring harness under the hood, approximately where the horn relay is located. The fire then traveled thru the main harness to the dash area. EVERY ground wire was destroyed along with a considerable number of power leads.
George
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Cigarette lighter is disconnected, doors are closed, and all switches are in the off position. The rear window defroster blower is removed, the power antenna is removed radio is removed. Damned if I know where to look. So many thousands of dollars invested, and still a broke Avanti...
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Battery out of the system, measuring between the battery negative and positive leads.
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RQB 1600 had a severe electrical system fire 2 years ago. Today, I finally finished rebuilding the factory wiring harness. Yipee.. Nope. I still have a 5.2K Ohm ground, with all fuses pulled and all relays disconnected. Can anyone give me some guidance. I have reached the end of my patience and knowledge.
Thanks,
George RQB1600
gandcwendell@gmail.com
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Replaced the original L48 350 (2 bolt main) with a numbers matching 1970 LT1 350 (4 bolt main), bored 0.030 over, mild cam, reworked heads, Eldebrock Performer 2101 intake with a 1406 carb. The engine is a PRO Series II, built by Proformance Racing in New Jersey. Currently pushing 350 HP at the rear wheels.
George
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Loved it. Hopefully by the end of this week RQB1600 will be doing the same. It has been 2 1/2 years since she rumbled. But the restoration is almost complete.
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While watching Lifetime TV tonight, the movie was "Secret Life Of Bees". One of the main vehicles in the movie was a powder blue 1960 Studebaker Lark 4 door. Could not tell if it was a VI or a VIII. Also making a cameo appearance was a light blue Avanti. You only saw the Avanti for about one second, and the view was from the right rear. Could not determine the year. Since the movie takes place in the early 60's, I would tend to believe a 63 or 64 would be correct. Now, who is the owner of these cars??
George
RQB 1600
Brake System
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted
Gentlemen, I am looking for a factory correct Master Cylinder for RQB 1600, 1971 Avanti II, also am looking for a factory build sheet..
George