[Under hood heat]

To Dunkin, gasket is standard 3 ply stapled together. Probably 3/16” or so. Can’t go any thicker as R2 bonnet is already touching the hood. 

[Under hood heat]

Thanks for your response , both of you. Your heat blanket is much more attractive than conventional ones. BTW I already use an electric fan. 

[Under hood heat]

   Looking for ways to lower under hood temp. It would seem that eliminating the under hood blanket would help reduce under hood temp by allowing more room for air to circulate. Since I only drive in warm weather, I also plan on closing up the exhaust crossover in the intake manifold. What’s the best way?Currently after about an hour of driving on a hot day, heat build up is great enough to boil gas in the secondary float bowl that then percolates into the air horn. 

[Starving for Fuel]

The line from the s/c is unrestricted and connected. Beyond that I wouldn’t know how to check it. Without the engine running The electric pump will push fuel thru the mechanical pump and up to the fuel filter. With engine running (and both pumps) volume produced is more than the engine could use under any load. I will check the pressure at the carburetor next. 

[Starving for Fuel]

I have not checked or changed the float level. 

[Starving for Fuel]

Is there any scenario or defect that would allow pressurized intake air from the supercharger to enter the float bowl. It almost seems as though fuel is being pushed toward the fuel pump from the carb as I advance the throttle by hand while watching the clear fuel filter. 

[Starving for Fuel]

I own R2585 which is an R2 w Auto trans.  Beginning last summer, under full throttle the engine began running out of fuel. I changed the fuel filter and it was some better. Later, it began

to starve for fuel almost every time it was under any load at all. After disconnecting fuel line to carburetor, fuel pump delivery appeared weak, at this point I had the pump rebuilt by one of our reputable rebuilders. I also found that a previous owner had added another filter above the rear end at the line from the tank. After installing the rebuilt pump and changing the filter and checking the delivery from the electric pump under the driver's seat, the fuel delivery will support low load gentle driving. As soon as I get aggressive, it seems to starve probably as soon as the float bowl runs low.  At this point the see thru filter bowl between fuel pump and carb will be empty. It's as if pressure from the carb inlet is pushing the fuel back towards the fuel pump, which can't seem to overcome the pressure and deliver a steady supply. Also, the 1/4 in. line from the supercharger to the fuel pump appears to be working.  I'm out of ideas, has anyone experienced this problem? 

[Fresh air cooling for transmission console]

Thanks so much for the clarifications. From the records I have, it appears that this car was partially restored approx. 10 yrs ago. I discovered the open tubes (with no “hats”) while doing some defroster duct work. While there is no evident water damage, even washing the car could have a bad outcome. I plan to remove the inlet tubes and seal the holes w/ sheet metal and sealant. This forum has been a life saver so far. Thanks, Phil

[Fresh air cooling for transmission console]

I have two 2” air holes in the cowl area directly below the cowl grill. While there is nothing in the service manual, the parts manual states that sometime after R4000 fresh air tubes are routed from the cowl to the console area apparently to relieve transmission heat. Mine has no tubes and I don’t know why the holes are there. Is anyone familiar with this late model addition? Where would rain water and other run off end up? Thanks, Phil P. 

[Engine position]

You are correct Ed. The main reason the hood moves closer to the engine would be a slight compression over years of the body mounts. I have no apparent rust or other frame issues so I’m going to try mfg’s suggestion and place some hardened washers between the center mount bracket and the crossmember, slightly lowering the bell crank. Thanks to all for the comments, I’ll let you know how it ends up. Phil P. 

[Engine position]

3 hours ago, 1963r2 said:

I'm not sure about the lifting points but somewhere at the front and would look more at an engine crane to lift it.

I would also slot the washers or whatever you use so that the engine only has to lift of the mount enough to slide a washer in place. Do it one side at a time.

pb

 

2 hours ago, studegary said:

To me, it sounds like you need new motor mounts.  Your original ones are probably worn out/sagged from more than a half a Century of use.

Actually, Gary the mounts don’t appear to be original. I fear that new ones will put the carburetor into the hood. 

[Engine position]

Hi to all. My carburetor bonnet on my R2585 R2 is only 3/16” from touching the hood, yet occasionally the crank pulley contacts the p/s bell crank. I’d like to place a washer on top of the motor mounts to correct this. Could the engine be gently lifted with a softly padded Jack at the front of the pan? If not what would be the proper lifting point? Thanks for your thoughts. 

[1963 Avanti R-2 R-2585]

Hi Steve!  I just purchased this car from Bob in Kingsville MD. I’d love to chat w/ you. I have so many questions that Bob doesn’t remember the answers to! I’ve only had it for s few days and as yet haven’t joined the association.