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Posts posted by Zedman

  1. I happened to speak with a member of our club who said that he had  bought a smashed Avanti II a number of years back. He said he made up a framework using another Avanti for reference and re-laid the fibreglass to replicate a new panel section.  The "impossible" is not always so - it just takes more effort !  A daunting task but obviously not impossible. It may be worth considering a similar route seeing most of the structure is already there.

  2. There is no O-ring at the bottom of the pickup tube as far as I know, nor on the Pressure regulator inlet. The swaged bead at the bottom of the tube is simply for locating purposes. The upside down screen will keep the mesh out of any muck that sits on the bottom of the pan. There is no magnet in the indentation but I suppose you might try placing one in there if you wish.

  3. I am undertaking a Frame replacement at this time so I am familiar with what it looks line "in the nude" as if it were.

    We obviate the necessity to remove the frame from the body- I believe it can be straightened using force and lots of heat. Once it is apart, I'm sure it will not look so daunting a task. Your alternative is to try finding a SWB Frame and modifying it (as I have done) locally or importing one. For this reason you have nothing more to lose by having a go at repairing what you have now. I'm surprised that beefy 'X" member is actually bent, but of course it is. I would enlist the auspices of a fibreglass specialist; perhaps one that is engaged with boat repairs. I do believe it is repairable rather than merely savageable- and finally, think of it as saving just one more Avanti  from being scrapped to save another.  Just my humble opinion, mind.

  4. My compliments on a really nice outcome ! 👌  I have to re lay all new sound deadener/ Insulation on the floor of my Avanti. What material did you use?  Is normal household Jute underlay OK for this job?  I note the original stuff is a white material of some sort 🙂

  5. Hi Gary- I once had a 65 Mustang convertible that seemed to steer all over the road when I first got it.  It was awful- kind of twitchy.  I found it's front wheel toe-in was very excessive (nearly 2"!).  Once I adjusted it back to only 1/8" it drove incredibly more comfortably. Have a quick check of your Toe-In amongst all the other salient points.

  6. It took me two days to figure out getting all the plugs out when I got my Avanti II home.  I got a real shock- " I'll just whip these out and lube the cyls with a squirt of oil and start her up..."   I am naturally "resistant" to anything that 'Butchers' the originality of our cars, but I have to give some creedence to hole-sawing out some nice well placed holes in the skirts one day...🙃

  7. Do Avanti II doors circa 1981 have any 'Anti Intrusion Bars' included in their construction?  It appears I will get away with deleting the Catalytic Converter (Yay!) and be able to install an earlier style dual exhaust, but Australian Design Rules for 1981 will require side intrusion bars within the doors. A lot of 1970 US built musclecars imported here have had to had Bars made up and installed.

  8. Hi Gill. I am replacing my original Frame with a new one (well- one made up from a SWB Lark and welding all the necessary accotrements back onto it). I'm working in primitive conditions, so I can only hope you are better off !

    • If you are able to use the 4 point lift to get the body up, can you leave it up there whilst all the other work gets done? This solves lots of other problems.
    • If you must take the body off the hoist, you may support it by simple wood blocks under the front A pillar mounting  positions and under the rear wheel arch with a long length of timber.  I have been told you can even support the whole shebang on timbers supported by 20 litre steel drums. You might even wish to consider integrating the whole issue into a moveable  "Dolly", however.
    • Beware that the back window and rear body will be heavier than the front- don't ask me how i found this out !🙄
    • Whilst I have taken out the front seats and pulled up a bit of carpet I have left back seats in place and left the doors shut. I can open these doors whilst it is suspended but I choose not to because I just don't wish to tempt fate.
    • Just my humble opinion, mind, but this task may take longer than you think- now is a fantastic opportunity to replace spring bushes, freshen springs, rebuild the front suspension, paint the hell out of everything....

    Regards- Steve

  9. 15 hours ago, 1963r2 said:


    I did reply but it seems to have disappeared.

    I don't have that bracket on my Chassis but there is two holes on the inner rear chassis ( drivers side) near the rear cross member where I think that bracket would fit.

    I suspect it may be the bracket that holds one side of the fuel tank on the Lark. Maybe it was left on the A11 chassis or it is off the replacement chassis.

    Have a look in that area.


    Hi Peter- thanks for your feedback- The culprit was removed from the 'Donor' SWB chassis. My mate says it needed to come off for the sake of authenticity, but I will check on it .

  10. On 5/14/2022 at 9:37 PM, 1963r2 said:

     From memory it goes on the inside of the chassis rail towards the rear.

    Look for a spot on the chassis that has two holes that match the two on the bracket.

    In the meantime I will have a look at my chassis next time I'm at work for the exact location.


    Hi Peter- Thanks mate I will check next time I am in front of the project (it's 60 miles away!). By all means if you can identify it further, please do let me know. regards, Steve

  11. On 5/15/2022 at 10:39 AM, AD said:


    I was just doing some service work today on my "72 Avanti and I noticed a similar plate inside the right inner fender. The charcoal canister mounts to the other side under the hood. Could this be what you're looking for?


    Thanks AD, for taking the time to check. Nope not in there, either.

  12. On 5/12/2022 at 10:44 PM, Gunslinger said:

    Just a guess on my part but I think it's a corner stiffener for the frame.  In the mid-'70s Avanti Motors ran out of original Avanti frames and started using somewhat lighter gauge frames from standard Larks and added the X-member and stiffeners to bring them up to original specs.  

    Thanks Gunslinger... still hoping I can match the pitch of the bolts to something, unless somebody chirps-in.  I should mention the frame I am using as a donor is an 'Export' chassis from a V8 2 door car used by the Victoran police dept. The frame rails, as per the 59 to 64 shop manual, are listed having thicker (11ga.) material, so I think I have an advantage on that score. They also have holes and reinforcement for the steering boxes on both sides, so no extra work required there.

  13. Hi Wayne- I have had a browse of the site I reported on. The fellow has a lot of stock apropos other makes of cars there and information provided is extremely good. I would give him a yell and see what transpires. I believe there were some changes to Avanti brakes back in the mid '70's but I've no detailed knowledge of it.

  14. Hi All- I have posted an article in the SDC Technical forum relating to reconditioning information/resources for our Brake Proportioning Valves.  In view of a number of neglected Avanti's being restored, I felt the dearth of information relating to these valves would be worth rectifying. For your perusal  https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/1943891-avanti-ii-brake-proportioning-valve-information

    Regards, Steve.



  15. The part pictured is an 1/8" steel plate removed from somewhere on the Frame of my Avanti II.   I say 'somewhere', because this is what happens when two persons work on the same project.  Usual methodical cataloguing and photographic recording missed this culprit.   🤨 I thought it was a 'Shim' or 'Doubler' for the engine mounts, because it is similar looking and it came off the frame at the time the mounts were removed.  I'm hoping that somebody can tell me where this part lives and/or what it's for. 

    It was a bit out of shape so I flattened it out before cleaning and painting it-  there was some original black paint on it which made me think it was located inside the front crossmember out of the way of salt.

    As a footnote- the rusty Frame has been reduced to one part. We now have to cut all the various mountings and 'X' member out so they can be relocated on a donor SWB Lark frame. Needless to say we are going carefully on this procedure, with accuracy and weld quality being paramount.

    Regards, Steve


    Removed in late April-Early May 2022- WHAT IS IT.jpg

  16. 15 hours ago, mfg said:

    Yes, the fiberglass roof panel may have separated...on the other hand the leak may have occurred due to clogged moonroof drain tubes.

    Thanks for the Heads up on this , I never had much of an opportunity to check the sunroof when I got the car- I will have a look when I get an opportunity( Its 60 miles away and in bits right now.)

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