[Upgrade 40 amp alternator to 60-80 amps]

Thanks, Norm. I made some headway on my charging issues today. I appreciate your details.

Chris

[Upgrade 40 amp alternator to 60-80 amps]

On 7/27/2018 at 1:25 PM, StudeNorm said:

I installed a 60 amp from a Toyota in mine. It was a bolt-in and is set up as a one-wire system. I left the old regulator in place and "cleverly" wired the original connections around it so under casual inspection it still looks stock. It was also CASO priced right at $85.00 Canadian.

Norm, would you by any chance remember what parts store you purchased it from or the application? What about the ammeter?         Chris

 

 

[Voltage Regulator and Radio]

Thanks to all who replied. I took the regulator apart, there is no sign of arcing, burnt wiring, loose connections or solder or anything else I have seen with an electrical failure. I sanded the points, cleaned up all the external connections and reinstalled it. Readings are normal, tho I haven't taken an extended ride... we on the east coast haven't had a lot of clear weather.

As to the radio, so far I can't even see the wire trail from it, my car has AC. The wires disappear, looks like this will be a dash removal to follow them. Not ready to go there.

Thanks, Chris

 

[Voltage Regulator and Radio]

A couple of days ago while on the drive's second leg the ammeter suddenly started showing a charge of about 30 amps. Usually it is around 3 or 4, which it dropped to at idle.  Up to speed, back to 30 or so. I hurried home and let it sit. I've driven it twice around the neighborhood since and it reads normal, but the needle glitches frequently. The paint on the regulator blistered. Should I consider the regulator semi-fried and just replace it or could there be something else going on? It was replaced in 2013 according to the car's paperwork.

Second item... The aftermarket radio hasn't worked since I got the car. The fuse block was removed, thoroughly cleaned, connecters brushed and all new fuses installed. The radio appears to not be getting power, no static, lighting etc. Someone mentioned a suppressor on the coil could be bad. I can't find anything on that in the workshop manual or the wiring diagram. Any thoughts?

 

[Traction bar bushings]

I, too, stand corrected. I apologize to all the true Studebaker vendors.  

[Traction bar bushings]

Has anyone locally sourced rear traction bar bushings and spacers for the '63 Avanti? I know they can be ordered, but am interested in saving time and shipping.

Thanks, Chris

 

[New wheel and tire recommendation]

Thanks, silverstude.

[New wheel and tire recommendation]

Not familiar with Dave T, more info?

 

[Road Noise]

7 hours ago, Rob Dudley said:

You need to narrow down where the noises are coming from. Can you get the noise by just revving the engine? It could be a bearing in either the rear end or transmission. It could also be a burned out muffler. Does it seem worse going around a corner?  Lots of questions are left. 

I have R3858.

Rob

Wow 7 cars newer. Thanks, Rob, I'll check out the revving. With manual steering I don't take any corners fast enough to make any noises.

[Road Noise]

15 hours ago, mfg said:

The exhaust system has enough clearance?....Especially through the "X" member?

I did a scan of the undercarriage when the tires were were going on. Nothing popped out, I will get it on jackstands and take a closer look. Thanks.

[Road Noise]

My '63 Avanti is progressing towards being fun to drive. I just replaced the 20 year old tires, tread like new, but weren't very round anymore. Lots of vibration and noise at 50 and up. The vibration is gone, but a lot of noise remains. There is a loud cycling droning noise and a  light slapping noise above 55-60. The drone sounds like exhaust or engine. The slapping is like there is something stuck on a tire. Both disappear  if I push in the clutch or put it in neutral. Where should I start next?

Thanks, Chris

[Speedometer & Tach R & R]

Thanks to all who replied. I've been under there at least a half dozen times and can barely see the back of the tach, much less get my hands there. There is a big cluster of wires running behind it which doesn't help. I just noticed I can see the back of the speedo and should be able to get to it. Maybe then I can get thru its hole to the back of the tach. Whew!

[Speedometer & Tach R & R]

On 11/4/2017 at 2:39 PM, JLBKY said:

Chris.........do you have a Parts Book? If not, you should get one. It will show you how the Tach and Speedo are held in place.  As I recall,( it's been 15-20 years since I did this last ) there is a UI shaped bar, on both,  that holds them tight to the dash, with two small nuts. Remove the wiring,  from both, and the speedo cable, and both should come out from the front easily.  With , both out, you can now get both hands in there to remove the sender, change the light bulbs  in the adjacent four gauges, etc..

John

 

[Speedometer & Tach R & R]

I am attempting to replace my '63 Avanti tach sending unit and check the tach. Advice from another forum says to remove the tach and speedometer to access the unit. I can't even see all the connections and what holds the instruments in place. What is the secret to removing them? thanks.