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Posts posted by Ron.Strasser

  1. Not saying I would want to do it again but I know I did not remove either the evaporator or the Radio. I did remove the side covers on the console and might have had to unbolt the evaporator and move it but did not disconnect the Freon lines. . Yes the duct work is attached to the heater box and I did have to disconnect it.  Just don't remember what I did. Miner things like the temperature control has to be disconnected. It might almost be easier to unbolt the dashboard.  I did that to fix the wiper linkage



  2. On my Avanti with a Factory AC system that was installed after the care was made. I have a in line fuse holder on the power wire to the switches.  I don't remember exactly where it is located.  It blew once when the clutch on the compressor shorted. 

    Your wiring to the switches does not look like the factory wiring. 


  3. 22 hours ago, Ron.Strasser said:


    I have a mistake in a previous post.  Bulb 1004 is a double contact bulb.  The ground is via one of the contacts not the outer shell of the bulb.  It has been a long time since I replaced any of the interior bulbs. 


  4. According to the Avanti service manual both the Dome light and the Map (courtesy) light use the same bulb a Number 1004 which is a single contact.  Ground is via the outer shell of the bulb.

    From the drawing I can not tell if the power wire is run through the switch that is mounted on the light assemblies.   

    According to the diagram for the Courtesy light power is supplied to the bulb at all times.  The ground for the bulb is via a switch .  You are unable to turn off the courtesy light via the switch on the light assembly In one position the light is on all the time and the other position the light is on when either door is open.


  5. If the bulb is good, the bulb socket is good, there is the correct voltage to the correct bulb and the bulb has a good  ground; the bulb has to light If not go back to step one.

    To test for a good ground, use a good digital multi meter set to its lowest ohm scale . You are looking for close to zero ohms. If the meter goes to infinity; go to a higher scale until you get a reading.  Then test various ground connections until the ohm rearing decreases. 

    You could also run a temporary wire from the battery right to the bulb.

    I my self use an auto ranging Fluke that cost less then 100 dollars when I purchased it 15 or more years ago.


  6. Do I understand you correctly; you are now using LED bulbs in all locations.  For one thing LED bulbs are polarity sensitive. Another it takes a very little of a ground connection to light a LED bulb. 

    Being a retired electrician; when we encountered old knob and Tube wiring (all black) we would take a LED test light. (for 120 volts) hold one end of the test lead between two fingers and touch  the other test lead to one of the black wires. When the LED illuminated; we found the hot wire.  Oh by the way we were not in any way grounded standing on a fiberglass ladder.

    Still sounds like you have a ground problem.


  7. Unless you rare testing for the presence of voltage it is always a good practice to remove any source of electricity while testing. Less chance of letting the smoke out of the wires and maybe confusing the meter.

    You are looking for zero (or close to it) ohms between the object you are testing and the grounded terminal on the battery  Or you could test to any substantially grounded metal part of the car.


  8. Power is brought to all 3 lights.  The 1 light that is under the dash board is turned on by bring ground to the light by the door switches.  The 2 interior  lights are turned on individually by the switches on them.

    Fist check for power at the 3 lights; 

    Then disconnect the cars battery  Then check for a ground at the 2 interior lights

    Then or a ground at the courtesy light when a door is open


  9. If the colored diagram I have is correct; the circuit is on the fuse farthest away from the flasher and circuit breaker. (Black Line)  The Dome, Courtesy, trunk, cigar lighter , and reverse light should all be on the same circuit.I do not see a notation for the glove box light. might be on the same circuit.  It is circuit 36 from the service manual. 

    Not sure if the cigar lighter is on circuit 36 as the service manual shows it on58 and its light on 55

    Have fun my old eyes are going crossed


  10. The original factory AC system in an Avanti; is a stand alone.  Not connected to the heating or ventilation system.  There ore 2 knobs on the AC face plate.  The left one controls the temperature temperature and the left turns on both the AC fan motor speed  and engages the AC compressor clutch.  If I recall correctly mine has a fuse hanging someplace; (I forget where) not in the fuse block. Yours might be different as mine is a factory system installed after the car was made.


  11. One thing no one has mentioned.  The headlight switch is mounted in metal above the windshield with the wires running inside the windshield post. The power for the head lights goes from the circuit breaker to the switch above the windshield then to the dimmer switch. Since the trouble occurs on both high and low beams the problem I believe the short has to be in the circuit between the headlight  and dimmer switches. As far as I know there is no metal around the dimmer switch for it to short out to. 

    I agree with Gary; it could also be a defective circuit breaker.

    There could also be a short in the wiring harness going from the dimmer switch to both the high and low beam headlights. Again unlikely as the car body is fiberglass. There is nothing for the wiring to short to.



  12. Devildog.

    Yes the regulator is adjustable.  When I was a teenager; the shop I worked in a a helper (cleaned parts) would adjust generator regulators.  One Saturday a car drove in with a failed charging system.  They did not have a replacement regulator.  The old German owner took the old regulator out; cut the burnt points apart and put the regulator back on the car; it worked and the happy customer left.

    On my Avanti with AC etc the ammeter stays at 0 or a little plus any time the engine is over 1000 RPM with everything on; including head lights.

    There is also a chance that one of the diodes in the Alternator has failed.

    I purchased a rebuilt original 40 am[p alternator from David Thibeault in MA.  978-897-3158.  I believe he also rebuilds them and has available an electronic regulator or can convert your to electronics.

    And yes you could install a late model alternator.  Your choice. Check out Bob Johnstone's Studebaker web page at.  http://www.studebaker-info.org/



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