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Jim 63R3984

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Posts posted by Jim 63R3984

  1. On ‎7‎/‎7‎/‎2018 at 11:29 PM, dynolou2 said:

    If this is an FMX that outer lever is ONLY for passing gear.  The modulators  job is to elevate line pressure when engine vacuum drops, shift firmness and to a certain extent timing. Now remember that the carb to to cross shaft rod had a certain amount of give in it or pull back, it has spring in it, and may be releasing the lever from the kick down detent.  Are you sure that you have a ford unit in car, tag with any serial # ??  With the engine warmed up and off the choke a 19/32 drill bit should fit, see the shop manual for a picture of this.   Lou Cote

    Lou, 19/32 drill bit will fit where?  Are you referring to the jam screw clearance?  This transmission is a mystery.  It has everything point towards a FMX but has the BW tag on it.  The important info on that tags has been scratched off, not sure if that was intentional or not.  But as we know the PS did not have a modualtor.  If a FMX is or was installed does the drive shaft have to be modified to make the fit?  To be clear, does the shaft have to be shortened or lengthened at all?

  2. I just ordered some new engine mounts for my 63 R1 from SI. I'm a little skeptical on their longevity? They look like they could fail quickly under any acceleration. Looking for feed back on the original style sold by SI and if you have gone with a different mount altogether?

    Thoughts on a bolt through mount?

    Thank You


  3. Thanks John,

    I have the shop manual but couldn't find my answer in there. After I posted this I went out and still could see how this would come off? There were no visible screws. So I grabbed both sides and it lifted right off. LOL. It was a easy and fast removal of the shifter. I will reweld the the bracket and hope this will allow me to get my 1st back again. I will post if this turns out to be the issue.



  4. Hello,

    I need to remove the center console on our 63 R1 with A/T. I have never had the interior apart before and was wondering if someone that has could shed some light on the remove process?

    I haven't been able to shift down into 1st. While lying underneath the car and having someone up above shifting through the P DNR21 I discovered that one of the two spot welds on the shifter bracket is broke free. I feel this is why I am unable to get 1st. If I push up on the bracket to imitate a good spot weld where its broke I can almost get the selector into 1st.

    So long story short I need to remove that bracket and in order to do so I have to get the center padded interior console out.

    Thank You


  5. As of right now I don't have a dash pot but will be getting one during the KC meet. What is this factory update that I keep hearing about? Is there an update kit still available?

    Yes, the shifter will not go into 1st almost like there isn't a 1st gear position. I will be going underneath to check it out.

    I've gone through the carb and replace all jets back to factory specs. It does this after it warms up, in the first 5 minutes it runs great.

    Vacuum lines all look great but will be going over them very close here.

  6. I've just heard or read in this case that the Edelbrock switch has been great for those that have gone this route. I haven't check the clearance but again I've read in the forums that a 1/2 inch rise is needed and I haven't seen any issues from the articles about air cleaner hitting the hood. I will have to get the playdough out and see what the current clearance is.

    Jack, I have gone through and cleaned it really good. It looks like new. I have not changed any of the jet or meter rods. Now having said that I've thought about doing that but I haven't seen the same specs twice on those.

    Also the baffle in the choke was missing, I have no idea how this car ever ran for the previous owner? I have not been able to locate that baffle anywhere yet. I'll probably just fabricate one.

  7. I would like some input on upgrading the carburetor on a 63 R1 to an Edelbrock.

    First off do I go with a 500 {1405} or 600 {1406} CFM? This is not a race car but a driver that I would like the best snap with out upgrading everything else on a stock engine. Some swear by the 500 and others say a 600 is the way to go.

    How thick of riser does one recommend?

    I'm sure the four studs that fasten the carb down will need to be lengthened as well

    How does one switch from a manual choke to an electric?

    How about the vacuum plumbing on the Edelbrock? Do you switch from the back which is the current setup on the 3589S to the front?

    Thank You


  8. I just received my SI carb kit for my R1. And the needle & seat are much different then the ones I removed from the carb. The new needle and seats are longer and when installed the float won't move at all or not with out a lot of float adjustment anyway. I thought I would see if anyone else has encountered this with Avanti R1 carb kit.

    Prior to the rebuild, I jacked up the rear end of the Avanti to look at disconnecting the fuel line from the tank so I could drain the old fuel out. While the back was up in the air gas started to pour through the carb and down the intake. So I purchased a new carb kit and also a fuel pump. So I wonder if someone rebuilt this before and used the wrong needle and seat.

    The number stamped on the carburetor is 3589S which my kit from SI covers.

    I can't seem to post a picture of the needle and seat on this forum. I was able to on the SDC Forum however.
    Any help will be appreciated.

    Thank You

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