Jump to content

Deaf Mute

AOAI Forum Members
  • Posts

    17
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Deaf Mute

  1. Right now, I'd just like to see what goes where to figure out what kind of a problem I have, I just purchased a wiper switch that I didn't need. Hopefully a schematic will tell me that.... if there is such a beast.

    Thanks for your offer Brad, I will keep it in mind.

  2. I got under the dash again (no easy task when you are twenty years older than the car) and figured out how the washer is tied in & unplugged it, by-passing the washer. The wipers work fine now... trouble has to be in the washer wiring... all I need is a schematic.

  3. Good Choice. Another thing I discovered... I could not tighten the mirror mounting post tight enough to keep the mirror in place when crossing RR tracks or rumble strips. RED LOCTITE solved the problem. Just put a couple drops on each ball, adjust the mirror and let it sit overnight! It is a good idea to place a plastic bag and a towel on top of the dash though... as you do not want a drip or two of LOCTITE on your dash.

  4. I had my tranny rebuilt last Fall. The rebuilder NEGLECTED to connect the "ParkPawl" It was a minor fix, accomplished without having to remove anything major... BUT he didn't want to pay for my LH mirror replacement and scratch repair to the left side of my car where it scraped my mailbox before stopping in the middle of the road (about 8 feet from T-boning the neighbors parked pickup). Check with SDC member Claude Chmielewski at claudeski@netzero.com; he rebuilds standard & automatic Stude transmissions in Wisconsin. I should have hauled mine up to him!

  5. Where does one find those tiny pointed end fuses used on a 1963 Avanti? I did find a 6 A fuse the same length, but the squared end does not fit completely into the clip. I was thinking I should put together a complete set of spares to haul along... but can't find any. Ideas?

  6. When I rebuilt my engine and put it back in... I had the same problem. Thinking that perhaps the new clutch I got from Dave Thibeault might be the problem, I did some checking and found out that I was missing the spacer under the left rear motor mount... plus I loosened the radiator bolts a bit and slid the radiator up a good 1/8" The new front motor mounts also probably raised my engine a bit... but by installing that spacer, part # 527974, the engine rocked down a bit in front & all is well...(I have not gotten it fired up yet, but I am sure it will clear OK). This spacer is shown on page 7 of the Avanti parts manual.

  7. Well, I'm recently retired, but my wife is firmly convinced that I am already hunkered down all too much of my life in front of the iMac! You are right, it would be a major research project to explore all the major options and potential combination of those options. Note that I asked the question but I'm slow to volunteer for the project!

    Thanks.

    After doing research on my 1963, I have the following information posted on my windshield when showing the car:

    This 1963 Studebaker Avanti came off the Studebaker Corporation assembly line in South Bend, Indiana on

    April 4, 1963. It is powered by Studebaker’s 289 cu.in. R-1 (non-supercharged) engine.

    There were only 3,834 Avantis built in 1963, of which 2,282 have the R-1 engine.

    Only 874 had air conditioning, and only 682 were painted turquoise.

    I recommend Everyone that has an antique car make up a simple 8.5 x 11 inch sign on their (or the library's) computer with the make, model, and year of your vehicle. If you feel so inclined you can add other information as I do. Then your library (or office supply store) can laminate the sign and you are good to go and the world will learn about your car!

  8. I have always been told (perhaps incorrectly) that the fiberglass products used in boats were not campatible with the glass used on Vetts and Avantis.?.

    Anyone else been told the same thing... or know this to be true... or false?

  9. When you put those hubs back on... CLEAN the inside of the hub and the taper... get all of the oil, BPBlaster & crud off. Take a piece of blackboard chalk and draw several rings or diagonal lines on the taper. When you put the hub back on, it will not sieze... but the chalk does not give lubrication which will enable the hub to get too tight and crack. The next time you pull it, you will thank me for the advice!

  10. I have heard that pulls right out... but looking at that small hole and big engine makes me dread pulling mine. However when I get my '53 back together I know I need to rebuild the Avanti mill. A friend in Wisconsin assures me that the correct way is to pull the whole unit in one piece using one of those "levelers" so you can really lift the front.

    Good luck!

×
×
  • Create New...