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Warren Webb

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Posts posted by Warren Webb

  1. I have read on various forums of ones having mixed results with Pertronix systems.  So far in all my vehicles I have nothing but good results.  All mine  are in either Delco "window" distributors or the original dual point distributors that now seem to offer offshore points that are junk, that I tired of having break down on me without any notice.  Those now run Pertronix systems also.  The last one I bought is now resting in my 59 Lark Wagon waiting for me to finish moving to another state & resuming it's build.  That one has the "window" distributor & the Pertronix III system.

  2. Back in the 60's & 70's I worked for my father in his body shop. My experience back then was DuPont was the worst, Ditzler was better but didn't give a satisfactory match all the time but R-M did.

    At the time there was a DuPont paint plant in nearby Sayreville. We had a couple of customers that worked there & the funny thing was, they asked what brand of paint did we use. When they were told R-M they said "good cause we know first hand how our paint is mixed!" I always preferred the factory packaged paint, eliminating the chance of human error in a jobber store environment. Finding that now will be like winning the Irish Sweepstakes. (do they even have that anymore?)

  3. That's interesting!...I never heard that.

    Now I'll give give the true answer.........The answer to this question would have been correct IF, in the opening statement, the word 'SWEDEN' was replaced with 'GERMANY'!

    I'll have to check but I seem to remember reading that item in Andy's book "They Call Me Mr. 500"

  4. On normal steel cars I had always put the doors on slightly high in the back since they sagged down after installing all the window components, latch & things. With the weight of those items the doors would sag enough to align perfectly.

    It's been 20 + years since I did my Avanti. I don't remember it having the same "sag" that steel doors had plus the hinge straps on Studebakers were heavy, cast pieces & didn't tend to allow any sag.

    Regardless of the makeup of a door or any part of any car, the car should be held by it's suspension points. Try installing a quarter panel if it was suspended by the rear of the frame. When you'd lower it down on it's wheels the gap from the 1/4 to the top of the door will be wider, guaranteed!

  5. So far I come up with 42

    16- valve springs

    2 carb linkage

    1 accelerator pump

    2 dist. advance

    1 belt tension arm

    14 inside supercharger

    2 fuel pump

    1 idle adjusting screw

    1 choke shaft (for 3725S carb)

    1 supercharger oil pump

  6. I completely concur with Brad. I have heard some say that the base coat/clear coat finishes "don't look right" but single stage is a one shot attempt. If you have a need to color sand & buff afterwards you stand a good chance of cutting through & seeing metallic "bulls eyes". This applies to lacquer paint too. Back in the late 60's/early 70's Chrysler used a larger flake in their metallic so before we were compensated for 2 stage we had to use a clear to prevent those types of re-dos.

    The last car I painted with lacquer ended up checking less than 2 years later. That was in 1989. By then the formulas & what was sold was inferior in the major suppliers attempts to meet emissions standards. No I didn't apply it too thick. 3 quarts were used for the complete paint on my 66 Daytona Sports Sedan. Since then it's only urethane enamel for me. I don't need the practice of redo's.

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