Bill Hanlon
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Posts posted by Bill Hanlon
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Yes. I used thin plywood and pressure clamps. Picture is the roof but used same process.
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I had the same issue about 3 or 4 years ago. I used 3M panel bond adhesive 08115 product and it is still working. It is available on Amazon problem is that you need to purchase a gun applicator and mixing nozzle. I used the same product to remount my sun roof and has been working for about 6 years. You need to fix the root cause before a second hood support.
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I double clamp the hose.
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See this link. Where you get one I have not found yet.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/leak-power-steering-gear-box-adjustment-screw-315073/
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I would look for information on a Jeep forum. They used the same steering box on early jeeps.
Without saying the obvious, is the lock nut tight?
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If you have power steering one each on the control valve and the cylinder
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When addressing the same issue on my 1983 the original issue was the passenger side rear corner. As I clamped the original fix the stress caused the driver side front corner to start to fail. I ended up re doing the whole top on two steps.
instead of using the JB weld I used 3M panel epoxy longer applicator/injector. It has been 5 years and all is good.
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Remove the cover and put Vaseline on a folded brown bag and run it between all moving parts to lube and clean all sliding parts. Did this to my car about 8 years ago and have not had a problem since.
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Check your ground. Had many issues and has always been the ground.
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I am 6’ with a long trunk and short legs and fit very comfortably.
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If my memory is correct the side vents are for input/return air to the fan to push the coil and out. It may be only condensation from start up. Does it clear out once the the car cools off. Need to take it for a ride to see if it clears or is it another problem. If continues need to remove the dog house(side panels) to explore the source of the water.
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23 hours ago, mfg said:
Although having a moonroof/sunroof can be nice...eliminating it completely is sometimes a good idea!
I agree but requires a potential car to be repainted.
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I had the epoxy go out and did not need to remove the complete unit nor touch the roll bar or headliner at that time I refreshed the cage that hold it from topside. A member named Jared or Javier B as he went through a lot and posted on his adventures a few years ago. Should search some of his post.
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I agree with MFG. I did all of the above.with a single wire quadro jet.
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When you finish your show board please share for us less creative types.
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I have been looking for years. Let me know where to find. I put some Z rubber molding up temporarily. Have been using for years. Not the best idea.
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By date of picture I did the project 5 years ago. This is what I took out.
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I replaced both with the linked product. It has been in for three seasons so far without issue. Good luck!
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2 hours ago, Dunkin said:
Anyone have a picture of the window mechanism outside of car preferably the right-side? Would like to know the shape of the long flat piece off the 1350844-window regulator. Thanks
Do not remember which side. Hope it helps.
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In my 1983 which was a 305 now a 350 and set up the same way the A/C and PS are on the drivers side and the alternator on the passenger side.
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It is easy to train the wife. Make the repair $$ come out of her allowance rather than your car budget.
But do not listen to me as I am on my fourth wife and a couple $$ in repair is cheaper than a divorce.
if I had take my own advice I would be on the Ford GT or Maserati site rather than trying to keep my Stude running on the cheap!
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You are looking at 1950’s technology. The Avanti II are just a continuation of the technology. Why? They had left over parts. I come to Avanti’s being a prior Studebaker owner and have been dealing with the same system for years.
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Great review
Engine Swap Concerns??
in 1965-83 Avanti
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Make sure you get the power steering ram and control valves rebuilt including new hydrologic lines while the engine is out.
I did not and have been dealing with leaks for years.