boogieman
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Posts posted by boogieman
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Got the original shocks off my '79.
Rear part # Gabriel 1558050
Front part # Gabriel 1553786
All stamped "Gabriel Canada" and "Made in Canada",
Surprised to see they are all 3 way adjustable.
Regular, Firm, and Extra firm.
Had to use a cut-off wheel on the left rear as the bolt had seized up in the upper mount sleeve.
New Gabriel's going on, #82087 fronts and #82103 on the rear.
Searched and found nothing on the OEM part numbers.
Was surprised to see they were/are adjustable.
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Update time on my '79. Got the car into the shop at school. Tearing into the front suspension
I find the components to be in remarkably good condition. The grease boots and seals on all the
components intact and very serviceable still. Even the control arm bushings show little, if
minimal, damage and wear. And the steering spindle bearings and caps are complete and intact.
Checking for wear and looseness by raising the front-end shows no sloppiness except in the wheel bearing area. Removing the wheels and rotors I found the spindle nuts to be only hand tight.
There are indeed metal spacers under the springs. I think I am not going to tear it all apart
just to remove the spacers.
I did find and correct the sloppiness and vagueness in the steering. There is an adjustment
nut and bolt on the steering box on the left outside of the box. There is even a hole in the
left-inner splash apron for access. Loosening the lock nut I turned the adjustment bolt/screw
a total of 3/4 turn inward. This completely eliminated the app. 4" to 6" play in the steering
wheel. I did leave about 1/2" to 3/4" play so as to not cause the steering box gears to bind.
Going to replace the original shocks with OEM type Gabriel or Monroe gas-matics. And the brake
pads too. Still plenty of material left but there is no better time than now.
Going to rebuild the power steering assist ram as every other component appears to be in very
good condition.
A thorough and complete cleaning is in progress now.
Last semester I made a center console/arm rest for the area over the emergency brake at the
rear of the floor console. Going to have it covered in matching tan leather soon. I have signed
up for an upholstery class and might try my hand at that too.
The front tires, 215-70-15 T/A radials, are too big and have been rubbing on the upper front
spindle bearing cap. Thinking of going to a smaller tire. And I have access to a set of
14" x 7" Magnum 500 wheels should I decide to use that method to lower the front a little since
I want it lower anyway. I have been using this means of front-end lowering for 25 years.
The stagger and stance are far more important to me than tire size. And I carry a 12 volt air
compressor and tire plug repair kit anyway, so not a problem for me.
The car is certainly a curiosity in the class as most have never seen one and the suspension is
old-school and unique, especially given its age and remarkable condition.
In the class/shop area there is a '71 Challenger on a rotisserie jig, a '64 VW pick-up, a '54
Ford F100, a '48 Ford F1, a '27 Ford high-boy turtle deck roadster, a '67 Mercedes 250 SL
roadster, a '47 Chevy pick-up, and my Avanti. Last semester there was also a '40 Willys
pro-street coupe complete with a blown Cadillac engine. All interesting and unique each in its
own right.
Last week another student even began building from scratch a metal bodied Dobro guitar.
So progress is slowly being made to preserve this remarkable low mileage, well maintained and
cared-for, piece of automotive history.
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Looking for factory spring specs in the hope that since Camaro shocks work, Camaro coil-overs
might work too. Without specs no way to check. If you have the shock #'s I would appreciate
having them. Might have to revert to new springs and shocks after all.
Checking on MOOG C665 front springs I see they are OEM for GM station wagon rears.
Is this correct? Anyone know? Makes no sense to me.
I'm looking for a smooth boulevard ride. Not many canyons to carve here around Dallas!
And the nearest curvy roads are hundreds of miles away, too.
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I think you will find this rear is the same used in Jeeps and low horsepower Mopars from that era.
Unless I'm mistaken they use 10-1/2" x 2" shoes. Have had the rear in my '79 apart and instantly recognized
the parts having owned dozens of '60's and '70's mopars.
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Been looking for the specs on the front springs. Need to know the OD, the wire diameter, length and rate
to get coil overs that match. Anyone have this info?
Boogieman
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Since I want new front springs and shocks been thinking about a set of coil-overs instead.
For little more money I think the upgrade would be nice.
Discussion is now open.
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Oh the vagaries of owning boutique cars. Gotta love it!
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Happy Fathers Day to the other dads today.
Nothing more frustrating or rewarding!
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Been driving the car around some. I have noticed some play in the steering wheel with some lane wandering.
Going to have the front end aligned and wondered if there is any adjustment on the steering box to take-up any
slack there. The car is in the shop at school so I cant see the box until tomorrow.
Also I bled the r-r wheel cylinder and braking is great. Fluid nice and clear.
Need to rebuild the steering cylinder too.
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My '79 has the brackets welded onto the bumper mount brackets. I moved the lights to the bumper ram mounting
point when I took the cow catcher off.
I am looking for a pair of the light covers for mine.
Any thoughts as where to find them?
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What is the thread info? Might change mine too.
BTW nice touch on the carbon fiber look.
Thinking of doing mine in an engine turned finish.
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I had mentioned the annual Texas Lone Star Loop before and have contact info for whoever might be interested. A leisurely drive around the state with extras.
I know several who make this yearly event. Nothing but good to say about it.
contact at www.LoneStarLoop.com.
The dates are Oct 16-19, 2014.
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I found some specs other than the Avanti ones. I went to 45# based on several spring/u-bolt suppliers.
25# - 30# seems awfully light to me. Checking, I had them tighter than 30# with a 1/2 ratchet and socket.
Thanks gunslinger.
Now to address the brake fluid leak at the R-R wheel cylinder.
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So moving on. Any one know the torque specs on the rear axle u-bolt nuts?
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Thanks for the heads-up gunslinger. Is there an on-line version of that?
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Great idea. My '79 has the Corvette style hand brake. I am going to take another fabrication class
this summer, and an upholstery class, so I can easily make an armrest base and padded cover to fit over
the handbrake and have some additional storage space too. Easily removable and being higher,
a place to actually rest my arm. Maybe even a tidy drink holder too.
I don't use the handbrake anyway. Texas be flat!
Great idea Gunslinger.
By the way, excelent interior.
Boogieman
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Follow up. Got the rear springs taken care of. Added one leaf under the main
and done.
Front springs now. Eaton has stock replacements for $250/pair.
1-1/2" or 2" lowering springs for $280/pair.
Several of the suppliers have listings for $200/pair.
Any thoughts on the difference in price?
Manufactures? Quality?
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My car and almost all my cars are "drivers". Have had 100% show and race vehicles in the past
but could not enjoy them fully. Built to be driven, I drive mine. Even the 1 of 211 '68 Charger R/T
that earned a Charger Nationals Top 10 award.
I have rebuilt rear springs for several of my past projects and am comfortable doing so
for the Avanti. Cost is low, appearance still looks right, and improved ride and handling too.
Went the after-marked bushing route before. Not to my liking as ride suffered.
Spent a few hours yesterday cleaning and prepping the extremely solid hog troughs for
undercoating. Very minor surface crud as they were undercoated from the factory as
listed on the build sheet.
I had seen the rear drain hole but found one in the front too. It is on the outside edge about
half-way between the front body mount and the front wheel opening. Need to rent a 4-post lift
to fully access the area but a good friend owns a muffler/exhaust/repair shop and maybe I can use
one of his 8 lifts for a few hours one day.
Going to have the rear springs redone tomorrow and check with Eaton Springs about the fronts.
Boogieman -
Nice drawings. Interesting tail treatment.
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Update time. The car still leans to the drivers side by over 3/4".
The back half of both springs are turned down slightly and sagging.
Going to have a local spring shop add one leaf under the main leaf to support the weight.
This will be the new #2 leaf.
Then have the #3 (original #2 leaf) leaf replaced to support the new #2 leaf.
They say they can do this for about $100.
Hopefully not too stiff a ride but the car could stand it.
If need-be I can fab up a set of lowering blocks (1") if the car sits too high.
The front is sagging too. Checked with Coil Spring Specialties in Kansas.
They can make new front springs with 1" drop for $280 but need 6 weeks to get
them made and shipped.
Checking Eaton Springs there is no listing for any Studebaker or Avantis.
Tried calling but they close early on Fridays so must wait until Monday.
Do any of the available suppliers carry a lowering front spring in stock?
I'm too lazy to check them all!
Otherwise the car is progressing along. I cleaned up the door sills, polished the chrome,
did some touch-up painting on the sill area, the door jambs, and door edges. Polished the grill,
made a nice front spoiler-air dam for additional air flow through the radiator (nice to have access
to all the shop fab equipment at school), painted it to match, and got started on
cleaning and conditioning the interior. Also added a pair of nice stainless exhaust tips too.
3"OD - 2-1/2" ID but look killer on the car.
Looks like the plan of complete restoration/preservation is out the window.
I gots to put my mark on it. Although rare at 1 of 175 I need it to be what I think it can be.
As always comments and advice welcomed.
Boogieman
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Update time. The car still leans to the drivers side by over 3/4".
The back half of both springs are turned down slightly and sagging.
Going to have a local spring shop add one leaf under the main leaf to support the weight.
This will be the new #2 leaf.
Then have the #3 (original #2 leaf) leaf replaced to support the new #2 leaf.
They say they can do this for about $100.
Hopefully not too stiff a ride but the car could stand it.
If need-be I can fab up a set of lowering blocks (1") if the car sits too high.
The front is sagging too. Checked with Coil Spring Specialties in Kansas.
They can make new front springs with 1" drop for $280 but need 6 weeks to get
them made and shipped.
Checking Eaton Springs there is no listing for any Studebaker or Avantis.
Tried calling but they close early on Fridays so must wait until Monday.
Do any of the available suppliers carry a lowering front spring in stock?
I'm too lazy to check them all!
Otherwise the car is progressing along. I cleaned up the door sills, polished the chrome,
did some touch-up painting on the sill area, the door jambs, and door edges. Polished the grill,
made a nice front spoiler-air dam for additional air flow through the radiator (nice to have access
to all the shop fab equipment at school), painted it to match, and got started on
cleaning and conditioning the interior. Also added a pair of nice stainless exhaust tips too.
3"OD - 2-1/2" ID but look killer on the car.
Looks like the plan of complete restoration/preservation is out the window.
I gots to put my mark on it. Although rare at 1 of 175 I need it to be what I think it can be.
As always comments and advice welcomed.
Boogieman
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Can't help you on the "extra" bracket. I don't see one like it on my '79.
May be for '63-'64 models only.
1) Send them back and make your own.
2) Keep it and have it powder coated.
Nice car.
Boogieman
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Found and bought the basis of my project. Should be here by next Monday.
Amazed by the sheer amount and variety of 1:18th items.
Going to add to my diorama/garage too.
Working on the drawings of my Avanti roadster today.
And my Toyota T-100.
And my real Avanti.
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Except for a used one which will work for me, I don't see any for less than $38 or so plus $14 shipping.
I don't really need to pay that for a new one just to cut it up for my use.
I did find one here in Dallas but it is $65. No idea what color as the person I spoke to didn't want to go look.
Long hot summers, around 100* for months on end, and I want an inside project.
RQB 2897
in 1965-83 Avanti
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Did some more checking and parts # cross-referencing.
The shocks are Gabriel Stryders from the era.
Apparently one of the best shocks available at that time.
Long out of production I saw several sets listed at $600.
At 50,000 miles these might still be functional but not sure how to determine that.
Think I'll hang on to them and keep them with the car.
Other than the shocks, and now suspension bushings and such, this car is absolutely
original in every respect. Might even be considered a "Benchmark" or a standard
to compare others to for originality.
After all, someone needs to maintain an original one.