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Posts posted by boogieman

  1. What is the capacity of the gas tank?

    Under normal conditions in a stock set-up '('79), 3.08 rear gear, tall rear tires, any guesses as to mpg?

    My gas gauge doesn't work and trying to figure miles between gas stops.

    All generally speaking of course.

  2. Haven't needed to replace mine on #2897. I have sprayed some lubricant down the channels with the windows up and plan to

    further lubricate the channels and all the lift mechanism when I pull the door panels for re-upholstery.

    It gets hot inside the doors, water gets in, and dries out what lubricant is there after 30 or so years.

  3. Understandable about concern at 205* - 210* gauge temp. Water boils at 212*, but in a sealed cooling system with a good cap, 16 to 18 lbs,

    water wont boil until 225* to 230*. So there is still a marginal safety factor of 20* to 25* built into the system.

    All this assuming the gauge reads accurately.

    Except for modifying my car too extensively, I have thought about adding reverse louvers to the inner splash aprons to help vent

    the engine compartment and help keep temps down. Heat rises with no where to escape thus the suggestion to pop the hood under

    extreme conditions to let the heat escape. Not a good idea in my book.

    I'll have to wait to see how #2897 handles the heat. It spent 30+ years in Fla so might be ok.

  4. Welcome. Lots of knowledge and experience here. What part of Texas you from? I'm in the Dallas area.

    As Gunslinger stated, lots of potential issues to look at.

    Could be the clutch fan if so equipped, too.

    Does your car have a shroud on the back side for the fan blade?

    On my '79 I fabricated panels inside and behind the grill to divert all the air possible through the radiator.

    Then fabricated an air dam/splitter below the grill opening to divert air up and through the opening.

    It is no lower than the bottom radiator core support and extends downward and forward at a 45* angle, 4" from the grill opening.

    So far driving at Dallas speeds on the highways the car hasn't gotten above 180*.

    I'm using the stock fan set-up. If you go electric, puller fans are more effective than pusher type mountings.

    If you go that route the electric fan can be wired in with the temp sender unit and most have an adjustable thermal sensor to set

    activation temps. My experience with electric fans has been iffy at best. Have had and used several on different cars with each having a short lifespan.

  5. Another bit of good news. Oldest son came by today. We were looking at the factory AM/FM/CB radio antenna.

    Finally got it to work by adding a separate ground wire from the harness to the body of the antenna. Works perfectly now.

    I got a 3 position switch (ON-OFF-ON) to replace my broken original one.

    And I discovered yesterday the original cigarette lighter still works, too.

    Other than the clock and the fuel level gauge, every component on my car still works. Not bad for 36 years of semi - neglect.

  6. Update time again.

    Today I got the car out on the roads for a shake-down run. Covered about 50 miles on city streets, major roads, and on the highway.

    The temp never climbed above 180*. Oil pressure 30 to 40 psi. Brakes solid and pulled the car down from speed easily.

    Solid and sure-footed on what serves as "twisty" roads around here. Rock solid at highway speeds.

    At 60mph the tach reads 1750-1800 rpm. At 65-70 mph the tach reads 2000 to 2100 rpm.

    Really going to enjoy the 3.08 rear gear.

    Opened the floor vents, the door glass, the quarter windows, and the moon roof for ventilation.

    At 82* to 85* ambient air temp the circulation was quite comfortable. Didn't even try the A/C yet.

    Finding bumpy pot-holed streets produced no squeaks, no rattles, no unexpected thuds or bumps,

    nothing unexpected or needing attention.

    Although needing rebuilding the seats were comfortable. Driving position was comfortable. The tilt wheel was just right in all positions. Although the Nardi wood wheel is of relatively small diameter on the rim, it was comfortable and felt good in hand.

    The semi-laid back driving position was easy and not the least bit fatiguing. Huge amount of foot room.

    Steering is quicker than expected. Several times I had to counter-correct for turning into a curve before I needed to.

    The car is very responsive. Acceleration easily out-paced regular cars from stop lights and stop signs.

    And I wasn't even trying! More than ample power to move the car around easily, even at highway speeds.

    This car loves the open road. Long trips at highway speeds are where it likes to be. Just loafing along at posted speed limits.

    The center steering bell crank might need to be looked at. Still a little too much play in the steering wheel for me.

    Might just need to readjust the steering box play some more.

    The radio antenna lets the radio fade in and out so I turned it off. I prefer the sound of the car better anyway.

    All-in-all a very positive excursion for the first round of serious testing.

  7. Luckily no fire in my '79. I had the compressor replaced and have 2-40# containers of R12 to recharge my system.

    New compressor, new drier, new Freon, and I'm good to go.

    I'm told to change over to 134 requires a complete new system with hoses and fittings compatible

    with the 134 refrigerant to function properly, or for more than one summer at a time.

    Has to do with the molecule size of the 134 being much smaller and migrating through the hoses and connections.

    Makes sense to me anyway.

  8. Another question for the round table.

    My '79 has the front accessory light switch on the center console.

    It is an ON-OFF-ON switch, 3 positions.

    Any idea why this is as only one direction powers the driving lights?

    Maybe the factory just used whatever switch was at hand?

    Got the wheel center emblems from Nostalgic yesterday.

    They have a brushed aluminum looking finish and the Avanti script is sharp and clear.

    Very nice pieces and a perfect fit for my factory wire hubcaps.

    I hand made the rear interior light lenses yesterday. Clear plastic with a frosted back side finish gives

    much more light into the interior. And not a "yellow" light either. Much brighter now.

    Ironically, the console lens is still in great shape. Go figure.

    Found and ordered a set of Black factory CIBIE driving light stone guards too.

    Got to pay attention to the details!

  9. Welcome. A quick way to test the torque boxes (Hog Troughs) is to lightly tap them with a small hammer.

    A hollow dead thud indicates a problem. Structurally good ones have a solid metallic sort of sound.

    Small areas can be easily repaired if you can use simple hand tools, drill, sheet metal snips, and possibly a pop-rivet tool.

    There are several forum members on this forum in the Houston area.

    I'm thinking they might give you any info you might need.

  10. No luck on the 4 terminal power antenna switch.

    Moving on.

    The interior rear courtesy light lenses are old and very brittle.

    Pulling the light assembly a Chrysler part #3746013 is very obvious.

    Late 70's Dodge Charger and Chrysler Cordoba applications.

    Found one for $25.00 on ebay.

    Making my own lenses out of 3/16" plastic stock.

    Going to "frost" the back side of the lenses.

    Repaint the housings too.

    Problem solved for no more than a little shop time.

    I found a manual battery quick disconnect terminal in my stuff.

    I put it on the ground (-) side of the battery.

    Now I can go to shows, pull the disconnect , and leave the doors and trunk open if I wish. No battery drain.

  11. There are remanufactured better looking cast iron rams horn exhaust manifolds available. They flow nicely,

    take up no more room than stock manifolds, look great, and should provide the same clearance as the stock ones.

    I put block hugger headers on my '35 Plymouth sedan. Had to rebuild the steering to clear where the

    cast iron manifolds cleared nicely. A lot of work and expense for a small gain. Your call.

  12. Congrats on building your model. I am building a 1/18 die-cast with a few modifications.

    Mine is a roadster with chopped windshield, a hard cover over the back seat area,

    a new roll over bar for style and protection,

    power blister behind the drivers seat to carry the hood blister front to rear,

    modern style supercar front and rear lower bodywork,

    a VIPER V-10 engine with 6 speed trans,

    lowered suspension with 17" wheels and tires,

    a full belly pan with lowered side body sills,

    smoothed firewall and inner fender areas,

    shaved door handles, stock front and rear bumpers,

    and a rear deck integrated spoiler.

    The rest of the body is stock to maintain the unique styling design.

    If I could post pics I would.

    Carry -on.

  13. Thanks for the invite CR. If the car were all together I would make the trip. Wanting to put some highway miles

    on the car and get some windshield time too.

    I like the idea of the safety workshop. Reminds me of the NSRA Safety 23 program. Never hurts to have a second pair of eyes check the car.

  14. I got a set of the Black emblems from SI last year. They are only 2" diameter. My wire hubcaps have a 2-1/2"

    flat area in the center. The 2-3/8" ones should fill the space and look better.

    Remote? you got a remote?

  15. Thanks Gunslinger for that info.

    Spoke with Dan at Nostalgic.

    The antenna switch is not available. Sold his last new one recently. He might be able to find a used one somewhere in storage.

    I will try other suppliers tomorrow.

    The cars ordered with electric trunk opening option did not get the manual release too unless the electric option was ordered after

    the car was in the process of being built, then those got both.

    I would have thought that electric option opening cars would have gotten both.

    I might look into adding an emergency release pull cable of some sort one of these days.

    The release button on my car is inside the glove box.

    The courtesy lights over the floor console work with the passenger door, not the drivers. Repaired the wiring and still no lights. New switch ordered.

    And I got the moon roof weather seal issue resolved. Basically remove the sliding panel, attach the new seal with pop-rivets and weather strip adhesive, trim to fit, reinstall the panel. The seal attaches on the sliding panel, not the body as mine was.

    An FYI tidbit: Moon roof is glass panel with inner shade, Sun roof is painted solid panel.

  16. How about these issues.

    I need a power antenna switch. Mine is broken off at the base of the switch,

    flush with the jamb nut.

    What does the interior manual trunk release handle look like? I see no evidence that my '79 ever

    had one. Nothing in the location below the rear armrest or any indications there was ever anything there.

    No cable or any connection to the release solenoid in the trunk.

    An oversight or that rare "Delete" option? As if!

    Are there supposed to be courtesy lights when the doors are opened? Can't find or see any indication of them either.

  17. Anyone know exactly how the tool pouch is secured to the trunk compartment bulkhead?

    I removed the screws but the pouch seems to be attached around the perimeter to the carpet somehow.

    Possibly a flap on the pouch extending through the carpet and secured from behind?

    Not wanting to rip the carpet out, I'm stumped.

    Plus, I can't get into the trunk to examine it.

    I'm 6'-3" and 230# and cant reach the pouch from the outside.

  18. Thanks Wayne. Somehow the logic escaped me. Reading slightly slower is in my favor then.

    Not that it matters but the newly raised speed limits here locally to 70 mph on some stretches of highway

    are mere suggestions for most drivers anyway. As long as I let them go I'm good.

    Most days traffic resembles a NASCAR track with all the drafting going on!

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