Geoff
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Posts posted by Geoff
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I went Friday to work on my car and poked around. I did not see any of the collision impact system on my car. Which opens this quandary, are they really necessary? I mean except to appease some DOT or NHTSA standard. My car looks as it does ⬆️ (okay in those pictures she's dirty) but the bumper remains in place. I even sat on it, centered with the fascia, and no creaking or sagging occurred.
I would think the components extending the bumper could be shortened (or removed as necessary) if an owner wanted to do so. This would require trimming of the front bumper's rear most side pieces so it's not easy to revert … although with plastic welding as a possibility, maybe so?
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Yes, that little opening at the door catch I may access. Are the door lock 'hook' and the door catch 'hook' two separate pieces? Does the lock just have an extra hold on the door catch 'hook'? How does that whole area operate?
I'd love to be able to open the passenger side door prior to removing the door panel just so I may sit on the rocker panel and work into the open air. The inside is getting gutted though I'd prefer removing the RF seat with that door open.
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1985. No battery. Passenger door. No lock rod topper. I can’t even see the rod up at the hole. No door key, just two ignition keys.
What I have is access to the interior at the lock escutcheon. Do I get a long and burly common screwdriver and then … handle low, pry up? Handle high pry down? What’s the scoop for this?
I suppose I could remove the driver’s side and have a locksmith key the lock, especially since I need this anyway.
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I know of a way to make the car's standing windshield more aerodynamic but purists won't like it. Take a strong look at the Cobra Daytona Coupe. Slightly in front of and outboard of its A-pillars are fences (or strakes?) that redirect airflow. Air flows both inside and outside of those fences; they pull the stream closer to the body so the windshield doesn't throw off a wide wake. That car did what it did on the Mulsanne straight with a naturally aspirated 289.
http://legendarygt.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/OVC-x-Shelby-Legendary-Cars-Caravan-Recreation-4-1024x683.jpg
http://legendarygt.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/OVC-x-Shelby-Legendary-Cars-Caravan-Recreation-5-1024x683.jpgA-pillar fences might make an appearance on my '85 GT tribute.
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12 hours ago, mfg said:
"...and that's 'THE REST OF THE STORY' !!"
-Paul Harvey
I only caught him in his late years but I miss that guy.
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I haven't been down to work on it yet but am poking my head in for a logistical update. I bought this car after it sat like this from 1998 until last August. There is nothing in great condition beneath it; the torque boxes are toast and several of the frame's eight side outrigging tabs are non-existent. The owner I bought it from had it for a handful of weeks and flipped it.
At any rate, the shock absorber system mentioned may not have survived the prior owner tugging it out of being molested by plant life. The green picture is after it was already pulled. I got to thinking about that today. Somebody might mention, "But what about this part?" And I'm going to be like, "Uh … yeah. What about that part? It's not on my car."
This is also why I am interested in taking the path of the Targa Tasmania Avanti where that owner 86'd the torque boxes and reinforced the rocker panels / door sills, just because f'k rust that's why.
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I'll take a more detailed look at my car Thursday when I return to work on it. I had not seen those but if they're contained within the bumper cover I would chuck'em. At 5 or even 15 mph I'd accept whatever happens to the front. Especially if that removes weight.
Alternatively there may be a way to modify them to set retracted. I'll look and update here.
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Okay, open source spitballing session:
I was looking intently at my 85's front bumper and started noticing things. The top flat panel behind the bumper, in front of the car's fascia could simply be removed. With that out of the way some other interesting modifications might be able to be made (unless I'm missing something). That bumper could be mounted back some. How much is some? I'm not sure, an inch? Three inches? Some other value?
The bumper is attached with two frontal metal brackets (from what I saw). Okay, segment out [insert dimension here] and re-weld the pieces to be shorter which would pull the bumper rearward. Now the car's front fender pontoons become a point of interference. Okay, carefully remove material from the bumper's backside to match the body's profile.
The last difficulty I saw in drawing the bumper rearward is the area where it blends with the front edge of each wheel well. The wheel well has a profile and the bumper would require trimming to match that profile, also presuming we need to cut off [insert dimension here] and maybe find a new rear attachment, because I see there is a fastener (bolt or otherwise) fairly close to what would be removed.
*Oh yeah, two side metal brackets; I almost hit submit. I didn't see them though I recall those being in place from working on 1025. I presume they are on these cars so those brackets would require alterations.
Would that do it? Did I miss another piece? Does the extended front bumper have to remain? I mean, I can pull up behind a WRX STI with the table rear wing, sit on my factory picnic bench bumper and eat lunch there, but other than that … could these Avantis reel in their front bumper?
I know people convert to chrome bumpers though maybe there others who like the Euro-esque look of the Blake cars, and just want it mounted closer to flush?
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It may be they were added later? In my 85 I would love to put in both the glove box vanity and the shallow, center console lockable storage bin. I plan on relocating my parking brake handle and the window switches.
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I'll cover the flank side with "Eagle." Now it's down to the only uncalled one.
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2 hours ago, Dwight FitzSimons said:
What "fuel inlet intrusion into the passenger compartment"?
I apologize this isn't the greatest shot as the foreground is what is in focus but the gist can be conveyed. The left side gauge is for fuel pressure. The right side is a gauge for blower pressure. The fuel pressure gauge has pressurized gasoline coming inside the cabin via a hose. If that hose were to burst or come off the fitting, it'd start spraying gasoline all over wherever the hole was oriented.
As much as 1025 was driven daily in the 1970s and 1990s, there were a lot of down days, but that was never an issue. The tapered axles were. The blower belts were. The under hood fuel filter was. 4 of 5 RF lugs sheered off. The engine fan spun off and embedded itself in the radiator. I'm sure there are more I'm missing but, fuel spraying everywhere on the interior wasn't a reason the car let my dad or I down.
We did carry a fire extinguisher in the car but that was just for "general purpose" as resin just likes to catch fire and melt when you know, fuego. I usually stowed it behind the front passenger seat. I knew exactly where it was at all times.
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1 hour ago, mfg said:
Remember when the new body style '68 Vette was introduced with the movable vacuum controlled panel which concealed the wipers??!!🤣
LMAO, so many problems with C3 vacuum lines. I had a '69 and long before me somebody pulled out that panel and replaced the hood with a longer design. That's actually a fairly common solution. The wipers then just hide under the extended hood cowl.
Back to the change: I know a more raked windshield was one desire, but it was Egbert who nixed that notion, yah?
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I'll shoot a double tap:
1/2"
3/8" -
On 4/2/2023 at 9:35 AM, mfg said:
Interesting setup!.. Height of unit would be a problem on many vehicles.
Right? It's a fairly sizable spacer plopped atop the intake manifold. Dropping motor mounts and a dry sump oiling system would be two ways to aid in fitting that beneath a stock hood.
Once upon a time I had a '69 Corvette and became familiar with, "Will not clear stock Corvette hood" whilst browsing Summit and JEG'S for many things, like the RPM Air Gap intake manifolds.
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Glassing isn't too difficult. It's tedious and there certainly are steps to be followed but today YouTube is full of cool information.
https://www.youtube.com/@easycompositestv
https://www.youtube.com/@tapplasticsThese companies have some great videos posted on working with the resin materials.
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Here are some photos of a Paxton in draw through configuration.
http://www.waywardgarage.com/tech/supercharger_drawthroughpaxton/drawthroughpaxtonsupercharger.html -
4 hours ago, 1963r2 said:
Where was the larger capacity stude engine development at this stage ?
This part is of interest to me, and is a big reason why I plan to use LS2* in my build; as a small way to pay homage to Studebaker history.
The 3.875" and 4" bore Studebaker blocks had to indicate the foundry was mostly ready to transition to full production mode in the summer of 1963, as a few had been cast [and hidden in an office] when Studebaker closed. The blocks were supposed to be scrapped but somebody helped them eschew demise. Both blocks would have used Studebaker's 3.625" stroke crank for 342 and 364 cubes respectively.
[LS was made as a global engine (so metric) but LS2 at 4" (101.6mm) of bore and 3.622" (92mm) of stroke, I'll take that as within machined tolerances of the 'what would have been' Studebaker 364 displacement.]
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How about car 1006?
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Blindfolded, with a paintball gun splatting on #3!
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Oh cool! Thank you for finding an answer about Blake cars.
Those circular openings are made to lead to the engine intake; shown here on my project. Some might elect to keep those openings; I am leaning to keep mine but will most likely repurpose them and aim ducting at my brake rotors. I'll draw intake air from some other location, as I won't be using the 305 anymore.
So if I was to remove the ducting grille, firmly affix but mock up the front spoiler, and then gently cut out a radius on the spoiler in that location, I should be okay. Maybe even contort myself and use a Dremel type tool to cut away the spoiler piece from the back of the hole (engine bay side). From the back I could see the stock hole opening and what portion of it was blocked.
Heck, the spoiler being present should guide more air through that opening.
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I don't have to worry about this as my build won't incorporate catalytic converters, though I'm curious for others. How do the cat frames differ?
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I'm spitballing here, but did it have a straight 6? I have wondered if a 6 or 12 would fit in Avanti's engine bay. Maybe pay homage to Studebaker dealerships bringing over Daimler cars, use a 12 from the SL 600.
On the Benz platform, somebody could build an "LSSL 600" by using an LS2, or an "LSSL 500" by de-stroking or sleeving an LS to 5L, but I digress and yield.
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You're good, and I appreciate the clarification.
I have a replacement frame already, in good condition. Everything going on the car which can benefit from a rust inhibitor will get a coat or two. Nearly every item in the car now is getting removed and given away, trashed/recycled, or sold. I'll be taking the car down to the fiberglass body and starting from that phase.
My optimism would love to have the car up and going by October this year but realistically I should extend that another six months, using next winter to finish up, bringing it out April of next year. I want to take the finished product to shows and events all over the country.
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My existing frame and torque boxes are gone-zoh. Well to be fair, a lot more than that is toast. My poor car was sitting for longer than two decades, getting acquainted with plant life. And the sunroof leaked, so there's that. If I recall correctly last she was road worthy was 1998.
This picture the prior owner took just after she was removed from living the plant life. The section of the tires buried in mother Earth is visible; lots of the low metal pieces were taking dirt naps. An '84 or '85 "on the dismantler's doorstep" was what I wanted to start with. I found one!
I like the idea of no torque boxes, and that this route can be made more durable.
Engineless Avanti!
in Avanti Trivia
Posted
I've come to the conclusion that every Avanti has an overheating problem to a varying degree. Whether you encounter it or not depends upon how hard one runs the car. The more demanding the performance, the more exacerbating the issue. Mr. Loewy really needed to design something into the car's shape to release air from the engine bay. A fender louver, one or multiple hood louvers, some combination thereof.
If he had, the car's shape [factory stock and in whatever class it was] would have performed better. Due Cento, even on the wet salt, may have officially recorded 200 the first time out. Ron Hall would not have needed the muffler designed airdam. Top speed racers wouldn't need to chafe the shark's mouth against Mother Earth. The car's already good Cd would be better Cd. And heated aero eddy air would be removed from the engine bay. Also, people who don't understand the real problem would not have punched extra holes in the car's fascia thinking they were doing a lick of good.